1997 F-150 Electrical Problem

[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

I have a 1997 F-150. a couple months ago I installed a new 130 amp alternator, the stock alt was a 95 amp. I haven't had any problems or issues with it. It also has an AP-15001d amp powering a Power Acoustik MOFO X2 15, with 4 gauge power and ground wire. I do not have the big 3 or any other upgraded electrical wiring.

So this is what happened, I was driving to work at 55 mph for about 6 miles with the heater on. My radio was also on but I was not bumping any bass. The bass knob was almost completely off. Then getting onto the interstate the head lights either went off or dimmed very badly, I could not tell, I also couldn't see any gauges on my dash. The radio "turned off" but it began to beep. I was traveling at 70 mph (about 2000 rpm) for about 3 miles. Then when I exited off the interstate right when I let off the gas everything turned back on, headlights, radio ect... When I arrived at work I turned the truck off and turned it back on and everything seemed to be working properly. I unplugged the amp after that. after work I went home a different way so I didn't get on the interstate and drove 55 mph and everything was fine. All of the gauges worked as they should.

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[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

Any ideas??????????

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Hmmmm who made the alt?

 

[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

I don't remember. I got it from O'Riley though. I know it's not a best test. I think it's a motorcraft but I can check tmro.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

I don't remember. I got it from O'Riley though. I know it's not a best test. I think it's a motorcraft but I can check tmro.

That maybe it

 

[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

Is there any way to fix it or should I just return it?

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

You can have them test it

 

[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

Ok thanks. I was thinking that It could have been a loose ground.

 

[Rayo 10+ year member]

I have a 1997 F-150. a couple months ago I installed a new 130 amp alternator, the stock alt was a 95 amp. I haven't had any problems or issues with it. It also has an AP-15001d amp powering a Power Acoustik MOFO X2 15, with 4 gauge power and ground wire. I do not have the big 3 or any other upgraded electrical wiring.
So this is what happened, I was driving to work at 55 mph for about 6 miles with the heater on. My radio was also on but I was not bumping any bass. The bass knob was almost completely off. Then getting onto the interstate the head lights either went off or dimmed very badly, I could not tell, I also couldn't see any gauges on my dash. The radio "turned off" but it began to beep. I was traveling at 70 mph (about 2000 rpm) for about 3 miles. Then when I exited off the interstate right when I let off the gas everything turned back on, headlights, radio ect... When I arrived at work I turned the truck off and turned it back on and everything seemed to be working properly. I unplugged the amp after that. after work I went home a different way so I didn't get on the interstate and drove 55 mph and everything was fine. All of the gauges worked as they should.

I had something similiar happen when my Alternator went out in my 98 F150..

My "Gas Light" and "Oil Light" both came on at the same time...Then I went to turn the Headlights on, and there wasn't enough power to run them..I also had the Heater on..

I quickly turned the Heater off, my Headlights, and my Head Unit..

If you have any sort of mechanical ability...I can tell you what I did to fix the issue..

The first thing I would if I was you..Is put a DMM(Digital Multi-Meter) on your Battery, and test your voltage with the truck running...It should be 14-14.8 Volts..

If that checks out normal..You're Alternator is probably fine, and it's something else wrong..

I pulled the Alternator on my truck..Removed the Voltage Regulator..Checked the Brushes on the Voltage Regulator...They didn't look terrible, but they didn't look new either..

Then I took a look at the Commutator Rings inside the Alternator..These are rings inside the Alternator that are porcelain covered with Copper...

When the commutator rings go bad..You can see the White from the porcelain..Basically the Alternators brushes eventually wear out the commutator rings...At that point you either have to get a New Alternator or have it rebuilt by someone..

When your brushes on your Alternator go bad..Really wore out..You can usually just get a new Voltage Regulator with the new brushes on it already..It's pretty easy to swap the Voltage Regulator out..You just need a Torx Security Bit for your Screwdriver..

You can also just replace the Alternator Brushes...Napa has them in stock..I can get you the part number if you need it..

I decided to just replace my Alternator..It was the original Alternator, and from the looks of the Commutator Rings...I couldn't just get some new brushes, and be done with it...

Had the Commutator Rings been good...I would have just replaced the Brushes, and saved myself $50..

It didn't make sense to get a 13 year old Alternator rebuilt..When I could just buy a Brand New one with a Warranty for $95..Versus..Getting it rebuilt for $50..Without a good warranty..

Hope that helps.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsupwink.gif.129404938effda6ad9cca39e7f4b58a3.gif

 

[camdogg4570 10+ year member]

I had something similiar happen when my Alternator went out in my 98 F150..
My "Gas Light" and "Oil Light" both came on at the same time...Then I went to turn the Headlights on, and there wasn't enough power to run them..I also had the Heater on..

I quickly turned the Heater off, my Headlights, and my Head Unit..

If you have any sort of mechanical ability...I can tell you what I did to fix the issue..

The first thing I would if I was you..Is put a DMM(Digital Multi-Meter) on your Battery, and test your voltage with the truck running...It should be 14-14.8 Volts..

If that checks out normal..You're Alternator is probably fine, and it's something else wrong..

I pulled the Alternator on my truck..Removed the Voltage Regulator..Checked the Brushes on the Voltage Regulator...They didn't look terrible, but they didn't look new either..

Then I took a look at the Commutator Rings inside the Alternator..These are rings inside the Alternator that are porcelain covered with Copper...

When the commutator rings go bad..You can see the White from the porcelain..Basically the Alternators brushes eventually wear out the commutator rings...At that point you either have to get a New Alternator or have it rebuilt by someone..

When your brushes on your Alternator go bad..Really wore out..You can usually just get a new Voltage Regulator with the new brushes on it already..It's pretty easy to swap the Voltage Regulator out..You just need a Torx Security Bit for your Screwdriver..

You can also just replace the Alternator Brushes...Napa has them in stock..I can get you the part number if you need it..

I decided to just replace my Alternator..It was the original Alternator, and from the looks of the Commutator Rings...I couldn't just get some new brushes, and be done with it...

Had the Commutator Rings been good...I would have just replaced the Brushes, and saved myself $50..

It didn't make sense to get a 13 year old Alternator rebuilt..When I could just buy a Brand New one with a Warranty for $95..Versus..Getting it rebuilt for $50..Without a good warranty..

Hope that helps.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsupwink.gif.129404938effda6ad9cca39e7f4b58a3.gif

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it but my alternator is about a month old and as maybe 5 hours of running time. I don't see how I could be bad all of a sudden because the few times it was running it worked fine. but I will check into everything you said to check. Thanks.