12" Subwoofer for a 1990 Corvette

[I'mPoor:(]

*OFFICIAL* Free Ported Box Plans (56k NO!!) - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum see if any of those can fit your car. Cut out sheet is right there, cut and glue thats all you needa do.
Soundqubed subs DO NOT like sealed enclosures, its not whether your sealed box is big enough, the subs just aren't not made to perform optimally in a sealed enclosure.

even with 2 gross cubic feet box, it should be 1.5 cubic foot net after port displacement is still good enough for the sub. Afterwards you need a good amount of power.

2.1 32Hz #1 will work perfect! I can build it no problem. Will the 32hz tuned still pound around 36-40? I have never really messed with ported boxes.

I'm guessing the 32Hz will be the max dB point?

One more question, will it facing forward, will I be able to hear the farting noise port makes? I have experienced this with some cheap *** two 10's I had like 3 years ago or was that because the box was bad?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

2.1 32Hz #1 will work perfect! I can build it no problem. Will the 32hz tuned still pound around 36-40? I have never really messed with ported boxes.
I'm guessing the 32Hz will be the max dB point?

One more question, will it facing forward, will I be able to hear the farting noise port makes? I have experienced this with some cheap *** two 10's I had like 3 years ago or was that because the box was bad?

box was bad. Your sub should peak around 37- mid to high 40s with a pretty flat response at frequencies higher than that with 32 hertz tuning. Port tuning at 32hz just means your frequency response rolls off below that tuning. You tune lower to hit lower notes with lots of authority compared to sealed where theres minimal authority. Trade off to tuning lower is less upper bass response and loudness. face the box firing towards the trunk for lows.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

box was bad. Your sub should peak around 37- mid to high 40s with a pretty flat response at frequencies higher than that with 32 hertz tuning. Port tuning at 32hz just means your frequency response rolls off below that tuning. You tune lower to hit lower notes with lots of authority compared to sealed where theres minimal authority. Trade off to tuning lower is less upper bass response and loudness. face the box firing towards the trunk for lows.

Thats the thing. My trunk is like 5 inches from my head its a hatchback corvette lol. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mak3epms8v8duwg/IMAG3389.jpg

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thats the thing. My trunk is like 5 inches from my head its a hatchback corvette lol. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mak3epms8v8duwg/IMAG3389.jpg

I'd still have it face to the rear, subs in a hatchback work better when fired to the rear hatch which creates a horn effect making it louder. You can also have subs facing up and port facing the rear.

Man, if you were better with woodworking, in that space you could do a mean wall with 3 10s.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

How much do I need. Like do I need to pack it tight or keep it loose? Does it actually act like having a bigger box?

Yea, it does. Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this thread

You only need about one bag for an average box. Loose is fine. Just fill the box

 

[I'mPoor:(]

Yea, it does. Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this thread
You only need about one bag for an average box. Loose is fine. Just fill the box

Is it okay for the polyfill to be touching the sub magnet etc..? I filled the box but wanted to know for sure.

I'd still have it face to the rear, subs in a hatchback work better when fired to the rear hatch which creates a horn effect making it louder. You can also have subs facing up and port facing the rear.
Man, if you were better with woodworking, in that space you could do a mean wall with 3 10s.

I like my hatch space just a little haha.

Also, I am going to be upgrading my amp, I do not want a big name amp. Take this with a grain of salt I realize that Power Acoustik amp etc... are the lowest end of the spectrum. If I pick up like a 2400 watt or 3000 watt amp and just run it at the 2-Ohm RMS which would be 1K-1.4K watts. I should be perfectly fine right? Like I said I'm on a budget. If you think it would be suitable I can go ahead and buy it now. I am talking like $120-140 range.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Yea, its fine if it touches the magnet

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Is it okay for the polyfill to be touching the sub magnet etc..? I filled the box but wanted to know for sure.


I like my hatch space just a little haha.

Also, I am going to be upgrading my amp, I do not want a big name amp. Take this with a grain of salt I realize that Power Acoustik amp etc... are the lowest end of the spectrum. If I pick up like a 2400 watt or 3000 watt amp and just run it at the 2-Ohm RMS which would be 1K-1.4K watts. I should be perfectly fine right? Like I said I'm on a budget. If you think it would be suitable I can go ahead and buy it now. I am talking like $120-140 range.

Polyfill can touch the magnet its fine.

those 3000 watt power acoustik would be lucky to even make 1k at 1 ohm let alone 1k at 2ohms. You'll probably get 400-600 watts rms clean out of em at 2 ohms.

Thing with power acoustik there's a good chance of it failing and ending up being a brick only useful as a doorstop. Give us a budget and we'll steer you the right way in budget amps.

under 200$ you have the ppi black ice 1800 which is actually underrated. It will give you that 1k at 2 ohms easy.

Dont tell me you bought the HDS300 4 ohm version... If your running one sub always get the 2 ohm version so you can drop it down to 1 ohm and get more power out of your amp.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

Polyfill can touch the magnet its fine.those 3000 watt power acoustik would be lucky to even make 1k at 1 ohm let alone 1k at 2ohms. You'll probably get 400-600 watts rms clean out of em at 2 ohms.

Thing with power acoustik there's a good chance of it failing and ending up being a brick only useful as a doorstop. Give us a budget and we'll steer you the right way in budget amps.

under 200$ you have the ppi black ice 1800 which is actually underrated. It will give you that 1k at 2 ohms easy.

Dont tell me you bought the HDS300 4 ohm version... If your running one sub always get the 2 ohm version so you can drop it down to 1 ohm and get more power out of your amp.

Well knew something would go wrong lol. I have it running at 2-Ohms yes I bought the 4 ohm. I just need an amp that can RMS 2 ohms around 1K-1.2K I really dont' want to to spend more then $150.

BTW: Reason I bought the 4-ohm the current amp I have can only handle 2-4 Ohms and not a 1-Ohm load.

I was looking at these two even though they are a little more expensive.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_52884_MB-Quart-ONX1.1600D.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76496_Kenwood-KAC-9106D.html

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well knew something would go wrong lol. I have it running at 2-Ohms yes I bought the 4 ohm. I just need an amp that can RMS 2 ohms around 1K-1.2K I really dont' want to to spend more then $150.
BTW: Reason I bought the 4-ohm the current amp I have can only handle 2-4 Ohms and not a 1-Ohm load.

I was looking at these two even though they are a little more expensive.

MB Quart ONX1.1600D - ONYX Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp

Kenwood KAC-9106D Performance Series 1000W Class-D Monoblock Amplifier

With subs, there's a thing called box/impedance rise(

), depending on what box your subs are in, even if you wire them to 2 ohms, you'll probably end up around 2.5 to 3.4 ohms which limits the capability of your amp producing necessary power to drive them as hard as they can. You might want to trade your sub for a D2 or two D4 10s in the future. Either of those amps are okay, i'd lean towards the mbquart since there's upgrade paths in the future.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

With subs, there's a thing called box/impedance rise(

 

If I get an amp that can RMS 600-800 at 4-Ohms would there be a need to trade in my sub in the future?

 

If so I will get either http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76260_Hifonics-X1900.1D.html or http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76261_Hifonics-X2200.1D.html

maybe wait for some to pop up used etc..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If I get an amp that can RMS 600-800 at 4-Ohms would there be a need to trade in my sub in the future?
If so I will get either Hifonics X1900.1D Brutus X-14 1900W Class-D Monoblock Amplifier or Hifonics X2200.1D Brutus X-14 2200W Class-D Monoblock Amplifier

maybe wait for some to pop up used etc..

I would recommend spending a few bucks for for a belva 5000.1D before going with those new generation hifonics.

just get the mb quart, for now it should still bang enough.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

I would recommend spending a few bucks for for a belva 5000.1D before going with those new generation hifonics.
just get the mb quart, for now it should still bang enough.

I wanted to get a cea-2006 compliant amp of possible

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I wanted to get a cea-2006 compliant amp of possible

you'll slowly learn that CEA ratings dont mean jack sh*t. its tested at 4 ohms and only at 4 ohms. Does not measure efficiency, power draw or actual power at 2 or 1 ohms. Its a fancy sticker on the amp saying "Yeah! we got the union lable!" Plenty of good non cea amps out there that will wipe the floor with 95% of the cea amps. My hifonics brx 2400 is cea certified, I did a direct swap with the belva 5000.1 and that belva amp was in every way better it wont do the 3000 rms but it'll do more then the hifonics efficiently.

Your two hifonics amp choices look shady to be honest... That the 1900 rms amp has 2 60 amp fuses so its max rms output will probably be in the 1400-1600 area. Meanwhile the 2200 rms amp HAS 4 GAUGE inputs...... any amp over 1800 rms needs 1/0 gauge.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

you'll slowly learn that CEA ratings dont mean jack sh*t. its tested at 4 ohms and only at 4 ohms. Does not measure efficiency, power draw or actual power at 2 or 1 ohms. Its a fancy sticker on the amp saying "Yeah! we got the union lable!" Plenty of good non cea amps out there that will wipe the floor with 95% of the cea amps. My hifonics brx 2400 is cea certified, I did a direct swap with the belva 5000.1 and that belva amp was in every way better it wont do the 3000 rms but it'll do more then the hifonics efficiently.
Your two hifonics amp choices look shady to be honest... That the 1900 rms amp has 2 60 amp fuses so its max rms output will probably be in the 1400-1600 area. Meanwhile the 2200 rms amp HAS 4 GAUGE inputs...... any amp over 1800 rms needs 1/0 gauge.

What do you recommend in the 200-240 range. The belva is just out of my bracket.