100 watts RMS over the rated RMS of the subwoofer safe?

shanedude02

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Okay, first of all, I am hoping I am posting this in the right section.

Secondly, since I have recently passed my driving test and am really into car audio (had a sony head unit as a alpine amp running off of car batteries a while ago in my room), and am soon to get a car, I have started looking around for subs and a box. I have done sound systems before in other cars, as in changing head unit, installing amps and subs and all, but i have never tried to match an amp to a sub.

Since this will be my first car and sound system too, i do not want to spend too much money on it, hence the selections. The subwoofer im looking at is: Pioneer TS-W310 - 12" 1000W FreeAir/Enclosure Subwoofer | Car Audio Direct

rated at 300 watts RMS, and the amp im looking at is Ground Zero Titanium GZTA2155X | Car Audio Direct rated at 400 watts RMS (i assume it is at 4 ohm since it doesnt actually say, and also looking at the multi channel power).

I am wondering if it would be safe enough to run this 300 watt sub on this 400 watt amp, because from my experience, subs can usually handle a bit more than they are rated, and amps push a little less than they are rated.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Oh yeah, I know the sub says free air, but i was thinking of building a slot port box for it, using the RE calculator. I am considering inverting the sub for aesthetics, even though no one will see it xD (if anyone has any experience with this, is it actually good or should i just buy a prefab box? ---- http://reaudio.com/box.php )

 
I just tossed a single pioneer that handles 1000 rms to a friends car that has 1100 watts being sent to it,works so far, i think itll be fine because i dont think youre actually playing it at the full volume when you drive, at least i dont mine just keeps getting louder and i have to tap out haha

 
I just tossed a single pioneer that handles 1000 rms to a friends car that has 1100 watts being sent to it,works so far, i think itll be fine because i dont think youre actually playing it at the full volume when you drive, at least i dont mine just keeps getting louder and i have to tap out haha


Thanks for the quick reply. Ratio wise, 100 watts over the 1000 rms one is just 10% more power than it can handle. With 100 watts over a 300 rms sub its a ~33% overpower. Would it still be safe? And I highly doubt i can get it loud enough to the point of tapping out on a budget xDD

 

---------- Post added at 08:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 PM ----------

 

After box rise, it wont be that much actual power going to the sub. Just keep the signal clean and set the gains correctly
Even if it is a ported box? Cause the box rise wouldn't be as much or am I mistaken?

 
Thanks for the quick reply. Ratio wise, 100 watts over the 1000 rms one is just 10% more power than it can handle. With 100 watts over a 300 rms sub its a ~33% overpower. Would it still be safe? And I highly doubt i can get it loud enough to the point of tapping out on a budget xDD 

---------- Post added at 08:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 PM ----------

 

Even if it is a ported box? Cause the box rise wouldn't be as much or am I mistaken?
its opposite, sealed box has less rise than ported.

 
Would running it in a ported box, with proper gains and a clean signal be alright? Also, do you think it would be better to just get a prefab box or does the RE calculator look decent enough?

 
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Set the voltage to 20 volts via DMM and it will equal out to around 100 watts. https://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohms-law-calculators.asp#voltage
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shanedude02

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