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It sounds like you’re putting together a solid system in your 1979 Camaro! Bridging the two channels of your 4-channel amplifier to power a 10-inch subwoofer is a common approach to increase bass output. Here’s what you should consider when selecting the best sub for your setup:
### Subwoofer Selection:
1. Power Rating:
- Look for a subwoofer with a power handling capacity that matches or is slightly below the 300 watts RMS that your amp will output when bridged. Ideally, the sub should handle around 200-300 watts RMS to ensure you’re getting the most out of your amplifier without risking damage.
2. Impedance:
- Make sure the impedance of the subwoofer matches your amp's output. Most 4-channel amps will output the rated power at 4 ohms when bridged. Thus, you should look for a subwoofer with a 4-ohm voice coil or a dual 2-ohm voice coil configuration wired in series to achieve 4 ohms.
3. Enclosure Type:
- Consider the type of enclosure you’ll be using for your sub. A sealed box typically offers tighter, more accurate bass, while a ported box provides louder bass but can be less controlled. Given the 79 Camaro’s limited space, a sealed box might be a better choice.
4. Size and Depth:
- Ensure that the subwoofer can fit in your chosen enclosure and your car. The space in a classic Camaro can be tight, so check the mounting depth.
### Recommendations:
Here are a few subwoofer options that fit well within your parameters:
- Rockford Fosgate P10D2
- 10” subwoofer with a dual 2-ohm voice coil. It's rated at 300 watts RMS.
- JL Audio 10W0V3-4
- 10” sub rated at 300 watts RMS and available in a single 4-ohm version.
- Kicker 43CWR104
- This is a 10” sub with a dual 4-ohm voice coil that can handle up to 300 watts RMS.
### Installation:
- When bridging your amp, typically you will connect the positive terminal of channel 1 to the positive terminal of the sub, and the negative terminal of channel 2 to the negative terminal of the sub. Make sure to check your amplifier’s manual for the correct bridging procedure.
### Final Thoughts:
Double-check all specifications and dimensions to ensure everything fits. Also, remember to use proper wiring and fusing to prevent any electrical issues.
Please feel free to ask additional questions or for further assistance, and let’s see if any other members have suggestions!
ThxOne
Premium Member
Staff Member
Oh my... I am not sure if you need a sub just yet. Both my best friend and my brother owned 1978 Camaros. My best friend and I put some effort into a stereo in his. What 6x9's do you have? Also, what amplifier?
What I would do BEFORE putting money into a subwoofer. Get some sound deadening on Amazon, their brand will work. Pop open that tiny trunk lid and clean the underside of the back dash with rubbing alcohol. Cover every inch of the underside of that back dash, twice if you can. I mean make it thud when you hit it with a wrench, no resonance or vibration. Throw a pair of beefy 6x9's in the back dash like (Rockford Fosgate T1692) Bridge that 4 channel down to two channels and throw it at those Fosgates. It is surprising how much bass you can get from 6x9's especially if you sound deaden that back dash.
There are several companies that sell amplified subwoofers that would fit the trunk of the Camaro. Kicker makes one you can buy at Walmart. It does ok. It is a 10" sub. (Link) NVX has one as well (Link)
- Thread Starter
- #4
I got a ct150d.4 amp and 2 ct sounds mesothelioma 6x9 200w rms
ThxOne
Premium Member
Staff Member
Ok, please!!! Get some sound deadening first and bridge that amp to two channels.
- Thread Starter
- #6
I have some on the floor but where should I put it for the trunk to make it sound best
ThxOne
Premium Member
Staff Member
I was laughing the whole time with the mesothelioma... I have a pair of Tropo-XL 10's.
Put it all over the metal parts of that back dash. Top is fine, bottom is fine... both is fine if you have enough. Make sure the 6x9' seal against it real tight. Block off any extra holes in the back dash. You just want to make it as dead as possible to vibrations. AND you want to mount the speakers as tight as you can. I promise you, they will make bass you can feel!
Put it all over the metal parts of that back dash. Top is fine, bottom is fine... both is fine if you have enough. Make sure the 6x9' seal against it real tight. Block off any extra holes in the back dash. You just want to make it as dead as possible to vibrations. AND you want to mount the speakers as tight as you can. I promise you, they will make bass you can feel!
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- Thread Starter
- #8
Lmao autocorrect, thanks for the info I will be doing that, and advice if I want something small for the lows
ThxOne
Premium Member
Staff Member
We ran a blaupunkt tape deck and a 100 watt amp I think... it was so long ago. To a pair of real mean Pioneer 6x9's. I wish I could remember the details. He had a 305V8 with headman long tube headers, no H or X pipe, true 2.5" duals all the way to the back with hollowed out factory cats. He had a pair of Super 44 mufflers and was one of the coolest sounding V8's I have ever heard. Still, we could hear the 6x9's over the exhaust.
ThxOne
Premium Member
Staff Member
The specs show your 6x9's down to 40hz. Kick drums (60ish hz) should be brutal on those if fully amplified!
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