Alpine INE-W960HDMI ---Sub level

my2006c6
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I put my Alpine HU back in my car as my pioneer died.. But i have a question on a setting. Its the subwoofer level. I read online that when setting amplifier gain for sub, i should set sub level to max in which it goes from 0 to 15.. and was told to set it to 15 before setting my gain on my sub amp.
 
I put my Alpine HU back in my car as my pioneer died.. But i have a question on a setting. Its the subwoofer level. I read online that when setting amplifier gain for sub, i should set sub level to max in which it goes from 0 to 15.. and was told to set it to 15 before setting my gain on my sub amp.
Most people recommend your headunit setting be flat and adjust at the amp. I do it backwards. I set my bass (NOT Bass Boost) to maximum in the headunit. That way I can attenuate at the amp instead of boosting it. It also allows you to bump it up when songs with little bass come on. On the fullrange amp I just set the highpass to where the bass does not distort the 6.5s.
On the Bassknob, I set it halfway as well when setting gains. That way I have headroom to boost those bass lacking songs.
 
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I just finished taking voltage readings at RCA jacks for sub with speakers unhooked. When sub level on deck is set to max, (15) there is 4 V reading when i run a 40hz test tone, at max volume so im assuming when setting amp gain one would want to set sub level @ head unit on the Alpine to max. or close to it.... Now that i did this i'm able to get my sealed 12 inch down firing sub (to hit like it should ) and now when i change music sources its more evened out without having to go into settings and adjust . Also I dont have my bass knob hooked up to my amp.
On pioneers HU i think you would set to 0...
 
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when setting amp gain one would want to set sub level @ head unit on the Alpine to max. or close to it
Yes. I assume the reason other users do it flat is because they use external DSPs or EQs.
and now when i change music sources its more evened out without having to go into settings and adjust .
That's what it's about. The less you fiddle with the radio as you drive the better.
Also I dont have my bass knob hooked up to my amp
If you're happy with how it sounds, good on you; but IMO, you are missing out. Sometimes you just want to boom out on demand. BTW, what sub are you bumping?
 
Yes. I assume the reason other users do it flat is because they use external DSPs or EQs.

That's what it's about. The less you fiddle with the radio as you drive the better.

If you're happy with how it sounds, good on you; but IMO, you are missing out. Sometimes you just want to boom out on demand. BTW, what sub are you bumping?

Just updated sub and sealed box. Original sub was a Older Low profile Pioneer (ts-sw3001s4 ) if i remember correctly, which i had for x amount of years, and in a ebay box of .80 cu air space... She just didnt give me enough .
So i bought a new box ,

Flex Series Down Fire Subwoofer Box and i put a , IMAGE DYNAMICS IDQ12 V.4 Sub. -- Box seems very well built and 1 cu ft air space. And wired for 2 ohms into my DC AUDIO 1100.1 which should be 800 watt @ 2 ohm. Amp is rated down to 1 ohm.​

I get confused on using the bass knob, as i set my amp gain just before clipping using test tone and my HU volume at 28 (max volume is 35) . Wouldnt adding a knob and turning it up more send a clipped signal ??.

Also my car is a 2005 Vette and when installing 4 AWG (GP brand wire ) there is only so many places to ground. Most owners use a factory ground location at what some call the B pillar. ( body) So i did the same, but i also added a 4 AWG wire off the body under the hood and ran it to the battery neg terminal .

Link to the box.
 
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Flex Series Down Fire Subwoofer Box and i put a , IMAGE DYNAMICS IDQ12 V.4 Sub. -- Box seems very well built and 1 cu ft air space
That is the perfect combination. That sub is pretty impressive. Sealed can use .65 to 1.8 and ported 1 to 2 cubic feet. On top of that they sell drop in cones! Big win for Image Dynamics.
I get confused on using the bass knob, as i set my amp gain just before clipping using test tone and my HU volume at 28 (max volume is 35) . Wouldnt adding a knob and turning it up more send a clipped signal ??.
It is possible, but the thing to remember is that the bass knob is only using the signal that is supplied to it. It is not raising the gain that has been set. The clipping from a bass knob would be more in the way of having it high because of a low bass song and then a bass heavy song starts. This has startled me a few times but luckily no sub damage. TBH I do not know if that would be considered clipping.
 
That is the perfect combination. That sub is pretty impressive. Sealed can use .65 to 1.8 and ported 1 to 2 cubic feet. On top of that they sell drop in cones! Big win for Image Dynamics.

It is possible, but the thing to remember is that the bass knob is only using the signal that is supplied to it. It is not raising the gain that has been set. The clipping from a bass knob would be more in the way of having it high because of a low bass song and then a bass heavy song starts. This has startled me a few times but luckily no sub damage. TBH I do not know if that would be considered clipping.

I just finished putting in the Bass Knob... And redid the gain setting on amp , with the Bass knob just below halfway point and my volume on head unit @ 29 instead of 28 . And just calculated the spec by 2 X 800 ( 2 ohm load and mono amp spec @ 2 ohms.) , and then Square root which shows 40 A.C. .. I tried one of those 40 dollar scopes and it worked only have the time so i cant trust it, but it seem there was no clip signal coming out of H.U. @ 29 from what it showed. And then used a 0db 40hz tone to set A.C. voltage at mono amp speaker terminal. Also i set the Subsonic on amp @ 30.
I tried it out on a song that has a very low bass kick, and i turned up the knob and no clipped signal showed up on knob.
I was thinking the knob raised the gain, but you state it raises the signal going into amp from head unit. ( I didnt know this) ...

My other Amp that powers my 6.5 and tweeters is a GT Trading ,Twister F4-650 which i had shipped to me from Italy. Looks alot like the Old Boston GT-42 (great amp in their day, and still have mine) but this has more tuning controls. And specs are
  • Power @ 4Ω 14.4v 0.1% THD: 4 x 170 w
  • Power @ 2Ω 14.4v 0.1% THD: 4 x 260 w
  • Power @ 4Ω 14.4v 1% THD: 2 x 520 w Bridge.

  • And my 6.5 Components in doors are STEG , ST650C and RMS of 80 watt @ 4 ohm, Sensitivity @ 1 W/1M is 88, which im not sure if thats good or bad.
 
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I tried it out on a song that has a very low bass kick, and i turned up the knob and no clipped signal showed up on knob.
I was thinking the knob raised the gain, but you state it raises the signal going into amp from head unit.
Nice. Good call on verifying and not just going in by hearsay. You seem to have all the technicalities on lockdown and well on your way to be an asset to the hobby. To this day the only time I have used an oscilloscope was when I was enrolled at DeVry.
I was thinking the knob raised the gain, but you state it raises the signal going into amp from head unit. ( I didnt know this) ...
The bass knob is most times an attenuator. If the gain is set at 4 volts, the knob will only have 4 volts to play with.
Sensitivity @ 1 W/1M is 88, which im not sure if thats good or bad.
With the fine tuning and amount of power you have on tap, I do not think that really matters. Sensitivity is the speaker's ability to convert the electrical signal into sound. 90-92dB is considered very good.
 
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I remember seeing those amps. I've had several opportunities to grab one but not knowing the brand I did not take the risk.
Good sounding amp, and will hang with Gladen or Misconi or STEGs high end K2 series .Some Misconi are exact guts as some of the twister amps but twister amp is at half the cost.... Bad part is weak RCA terminals, and also speaker terminals are easy to strip out.
The Twister F4-400 is the same amp as Mosconi AS-100-4 W, internally and cheaper @ $ 398.22.. half the cost as Mosconi AS-100-4W
Gladen, Mosconi, STEG, and Twister amps claim to be made in Italy but i dont beleive it. I think they are assembled in China or Korea as far as i could tell.
 
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Just picked up some new amps and new 6.5 speakers.
Gladen SPL 1000C1, for my sub, and a Gladen Mosconi Rs 150c2 2 channel for my new GLADEN ZERO 165 6.5" 2 way...
Now the hard part is calculating the setting for the gains on the amps as they are higher wattage than the speakers, And the component speakers are 3 ohm .. I posted this question in the amplifier section

 
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