Intermittent loss of audio troubleshooting

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

NEVER make or break connections when the system is on

This 100%

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I didn't see anyone recommend checking the output from the head unit- why not?

OP connected the test cable direct to the DSP and had no output.

 

[highfigh]

OP connected the test cable direct to the DSP and had no output.

I didn't see that until after I had posted, but decided to leave it in case someone has a similar need to troubleshoot an audio problem.

 

[Old_Slapper]

So, Mitchell is back? I see he hasn't changed. LOL....

 

[Landy4.6]

It being solid state components I doubt it would be something easily visible like an amp's bloated capacitors or burned transistors.
Speaking of that, another test is to wiggle the RCAs. Since those stick out it is easy to bump them and causing potential issues. I have fixed broken solder joints on the RCAs of a few amps.
Yes, it looks pricey. I would not mess with it too much if these simple test do not yield results. There are guys on eBay that fix EQ/DSPs. May be worth a looksie

 

[Landy4.6]

Wow, so many replies. Thank you guys so much.

It being solid state components I doubt it would be something easily visible like an amp's bloated capacitors or burned transistors.
Speaking of that, another test is to wiggle the RCAs. Since those stick out it is easy to bump them and causing potential issues. I have fixed broken solder joints on the RCAs of a few amps.
Yes, it looks pricey. I would not mess with it too much if these simple test do not yield results. There are guys on eBay that fix EQ/DSPs. May be worth a looksie.

This is a solid point. On my amp for example, it cuts in and out when I twist the RCAs, they have to stay still or else I'll lose audio. The entire setup is a bit old. All being installed around 2010 I believe (im the 2nd owner). Though the RCA cables into to the DSP are the fancy type where you twist the sleeve and it tightens to the input, so if its an RCA problem then it's definitely the internal solder joints as the external connection is TIGHT.

Orange LED Lights. That could be wrong connections. No volts coming from the red, accessories or yellow constants. Or the speakers are not connected. All the cars are chassis ground connections or common ground connections. Meaning conventional flow from + to - leads on the loop battery. Internally from the radio it's common ground connection. Externally from the battery, it is chassis ground connections. But both are conventional flow of electrons flowing through the wires. Are you still using it, or shut down all together already? Protect mode. Which is orange or red LED lights. Get it to an electronics shop they'll fix it for you. Nothing to it. Pull out the mosfets, place new one in, or change a capacitor or drain the capacitor. Then they'll play it on a bench test like the one I did. They have a big antenna, so easy. Test it there. If it works, you got your amp back.​

I'm still using it. So youre saying the solid orange "Maximized Input" means it's in protect mode?

As for the mosfets and capacitors, this is a DSP thats having a problem, not an amp. Not sure if that applies still or not.

 

[Landy4.6]

I did not see it mentioned, maybe I missed it, but it would not hurt to contact Audiocontrol support and see if they say anything about this problem. Companies are hit / miss when contacting them, but costs nothing to send an email with a photo of it lighting up and when it's not supposed to and no output when it does it.

I would guess fixing it won't be a simple procedure, or well, won't be simple to find the problem without experience / having the test gear to do it with a digital processor like this.

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Good call. Not sure why I didnt think to contact support lol. I'll give it a shot

 

[Jimi77 Premium Member]

Sounds like a bad rca or bad solder joint in the amp.