At what power draw should I be concerned of...

[Blackout67]

I like to add to the stock wiring not replace it. Is that what you guys do? So I have whatever is on there stock with additional 4awg runs

Depends. I did that on my mustang. But there's a big 7 kit I have for my jeep. Replaces all the grounds, alternator power wire, PDC wire, and the starter wires with 2Gauge OFC. Plan on replacing all the stock ones at some point to make it cleaner

But generally I'd say just keep em on there unless for some reason you can't. It's not gonna hurt anything anyways

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Hi! Now onto the next step of adding multi-channel amps.
I have a 2020 Lexus ES350.

Currently I have a:
-JD1000.1 (1000w at 2o)

I want to add two more amps:
-Alpine S-A32F (55w x 4ch @ 4o = 220w total)
-Punch P500x2 (150w x 2ch @ 4o = 300w total)

At a total output of 1520... does this arrangement warrant upgrading electrical v. battery v. alternator?

I honestly want to keep it below the threshold of concern.
IF 1520w is above this, I am thinking of dropping to a 800w monoblock, which would make it 1320w.
I believe all amps listed are class D.

I say run it. I think you'll be fine. Your lights might dim a little bit at night if you're going full tilt.

 

[Old_Slapper]

1520 watts mean you are capable of pulling about 1500 amps at full throttle. In reality, you might reach 100amps when kicking it at a gathering and cranking the knob up.

You can get away with using your stock alternator, but there is one way to find out. While listening to your radio, open the car door and see if your dome light dims while the music is playing. Chances are, it will dim.

If it were me, here's what I would do:

1. 4g ofc from alternator to the battery.
2. 1/0g from battery to trunk.
3. 100 farad cap.
4. If the dome light is dimming, I would add a 12v 100ah battery or another 100 farad cap.

Ideally, you would want to up the alternator by 50 to 100 amps. 100 amps would be best. That would keep your system from flickering while bumping down the road.

 

[Blackout67]

1520 watts mean you are capable of pulling about 1500 amps at full throttle. In reality, you might reach 100amps when kicking it at a gathering and cranking the knob up.

You can get away with using your stock alternator, but there is one way to find out. While listening to your radio, open the car door and see if your dome light dims while the music is playing. Chances are, it will dim.

If it were me, here's what I would do:

1. 4g ofc from alternator to the battery.
2. 1/0g from battery to trunk.
3. 100 farad cap.
4. If the dome light is dimming, I would add a 12v 100ah battery or another 100 farad cap.

Ideally, you would want to up the alternator by 50 to 100 amps. 100 amps would be best. That would keep your system from flickering while bumping down the road.

Ditch the capacitor. A battery will be much better unless you're getting the lithium ultra capacitors that are rated for 3k farad

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Wow. What would be the reason for you adding 4 amplifiers to a Lexus? Assuming you have the money for fix ups. What exactly are you looking for in performance? From the amplifiers. Just to see how loud it would get. There are better ways to achieve loudness and not just place 4 different amplifiers on. This is like a walking time bomb.

 

[Blackout67]

Wow. What would be the reason for you adding 4 amplifiers to a Lexus? Assuming you have the money for fix ups. What exactly are you looking for in performance? From the amplifiers. Just to see how loud it would get. There are better ways to achieve loudness and not just place 4 different amplifiers on. This is like a walking time bomb.

If it's installed correctly there's no danger. Ever seen the competition vehicles with like 8+ amps?

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Got to take into account efficiency of the amplifiers as well. No power transfer is %100 percent efficient. There is always power dissipated as heat. Lower ohm loads results in lower efficiency cause it runs hotter. For good quality Class D you are looking at around 90% efficiency at 4 ohm, 80-90% at 2 and %60-75 at 1 ohm.

Most alternators are rated at max RPM and %80 of the time you're driving it won't ever get that high especially if you're just parked jamming out

Since your Lexus is newer I'm guessing it has 2 batteries for the start stop feature and at least one of them is an AGM. I'm not sure what output your alternator is but I'm sure it's probably rated for 120-140 amps at like 5-6k revs since those asian cars like to rev high. I'd say you should be fine with that amp pull because you are not going to be constantly pulling that power while listening to music and the ohm rating will fluctuate as well. But you can add a supplemental AGM battery for much cheaper and will be easier that installing an alternator.

I'd say start with a 4 gauge OFC big three kit that should do it for you and if not then get the supplemental battery. I'd only get a HO alt of you are constantly over drawing what your stock alt can provide.

Grab a DMM first before buying anything and measure the voltage while you're playing music. If the volume you want to listen to it at isnt pulling the voltage below 13v id say you are golden

Alternators make their max output at 1500rpm.

I would add a little lifepo4 battery close to the amp.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Ditch the capacitor. A battery will be much better unless you're getting the lithium ultra capacitors that are rated for 3k farad

batteries are cool, but with the power he's pushing, caps will be fine. He's really only needing it for the sub amps, so short bursts is all it's needed for. Also, the caps supply power faster.

 

[Blackout67]

batteries are cool, but with the power he's pushing, caps will be fine. He's really only needing it for the sub amps, so short bursts is all it's needed for. Also, the caps supply power faster.

For the price you'd pay for a capacitor you can get am AGM battery that will poopy all over the capacitor. The capacitor will charge faster (depending on how the cap is constructed) but because 100 farads is like nothing and if you try to use it with the car off it will deplete almost immediately. Maybe if capacitors were dirt cheap but they are not and often times take up just as much space if not more than a decent size battery. An AGM battery the same size will have a farad rating in the thousands

Get a battery

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

If it's installed correctly there's no danger. Ever seen the competition vehicles with like 8+ amps?

No. Is enough to crack the windows? I've seen this done in a movie. But they used boosters instead.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Ditch the capacitor. A battery will be much better unless you're getting the lithium ultra capacitors that are rated for 3k farad

True with the battery, but really, he's only going to be drawing 1000 watts, realistically. The cap will also be connected to the sub amp. Sure, the other amps can draw off it, but they will get enough power from the battery. Also, these are base recommendations. If you have seen my other posts, you would see that I agree that batteries are a better route to go.

As for playing with the engine off, that would not be a good idea, whether he has 300ah batteries or not.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Traditional batteries are high capacity, low current, and useful for playing with the engine off.

(HO) alternators are high current, infinite capacity, and useful for playing with the engine on.

Capacitors are very high current, very low capacity, and useful to prevent voltage dips between the amp's demand and the alternator's supply.

Lithium batteries are next level shit with capacity close to traditional batteries and speed close to capacitors.

Add a small lifepo4 close to the amp and you will be all set.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Traditional batteries are high capacity, low current, and useful for playing with the engine off.

(HO) alternators are high current, infinite capacity, and useful for playing with the engine on.

Capacitors are very high current, very low capacity, and useful to prevent voltage dips between the amp's demand and the alternator's supply.

Lithium batteries are next level shit with capacity close to traditional batteries and speed close to capacitors.

Add a small lifepo4 close to the amp and you will be all set.

All true, but make sure you check the specs on the lithium battery. Lifepo4 batteries are the best to use. They don't discharge quite a fast as a capacitor, but the right one will discharge fast enough for a system.

 

[Blackout67]

True with the battery, but really, he's only going to be drawing 1000 watts, realistically. The cap will also be connected to the sub amp. Sure, the other amps can draw off it, but they will get enough power from the battery. Also, these are base recommendations. If you have seen my other posts, you would see that I agree that batteries are a better route to go.

As for playing with the engine off, that would not be a good idea, whether he has 300ah batteries or not.

Agree he probably wouldn't need a huge battery or anything like that. My point being that 100 farad stiffening caps can range from $80-200 depending on the brand you go for any many are the size of a small AGM battery. At that point you'd might as well go for the battery since it's in the same price range and performs better.

It's like going to a store and they have a buy one get one free deal and you think "well I don't need that extra one so might as well just get one for now"

You can get a 20ah xs power battery with the mounting kit and 4 gauge OFC wiring kit for I think $150 the battery itself is only $100

Probably will not need any lithium for that power draw I agree

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Hi! Now onto the next step of adding multi-channel amps.
I have a 2020 Lexus ES350.

Currently I have a:
-JD1000.1 (1000w at 2o)

I want to add two more amps:
-Alpine S-A32F (55w x 4ch @ 4o = 220w total)
-Punch P500x2 (150w x 2ch @ 4o = 300w total)

At a total output of 1520... does this arrangement warrant upgrading electrical v. battery v. alternator?

I honestly want to keep it below the threshold of concern.
IF 1520w is above this, I am thinking of dropping to a 800w monoblock, which would make it 1320w.
I believe all amps listed are class D.

The Punch P500x2 is class A/B. I have two myself.

Punch 500 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier | P500X2 | Rockford Fosgate ®

The Punch P500X2 is a 2-channel stereo amplifier capable of producing 250 Watts into each channel at 2-Ohms. Works well with full-range or component systems.

rockfordfosgate.com