Need advice on this ASAP

[Slayer16102]

I'm looking at buying one of these three options today can someone please tell me which of these would work best for my setup.
My car is a 97-04 c5 corvette with a 110 amp alternator.


Which amp do you recommend here? I am looking to buy one of these today.
Skar 800.1, Kicker CXA400.1, or Kicker CXA 800.1?
My car only has a 110 amp alternator so I don't want to draw too much current from it.

The Skar 800 peaks at 1200w
The Kicker 800.1 peaks at 1600w
The Kicker 400.1 peaks at 800w

Which one will supply the sub with all of the power it needs, but not draw too much power away from the electrical system?
I don't want to cause any damage to the battery or the alternator so I am looking for the best option here.

The subwoofer being used is a Rockford Fosgate P3SD12-2 rated at 400w RMS (800w Peak)
Since its a 2 ohm DVC sub I will be wiring it down to a 1 ohm load in parrallel.

I recently had a kenwood 9106D 1000w RMS (2000w Peak) and it repeatedly killed batteries and alternators. So I want to make sure I find a safe amp that will work for my 110 amp alternator.

I'm looking to buy one of these three today.

If there is a better amp that would run this setup better please let me know.

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[Clifff150 10+ year member]

If those are your only choices, the Kicker 800.1

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

I wouldn't do 1 ohm with a 110a alt.

 

[Slayer16102]

Should I run it at 4 ohms in series with a skar 800?
Skar 800 says 370 watts RMS at 4 ohms
Kicker 800.1 says 300w RMS at 4 ohms
Kicker 400.1 says 150w RMS at 4 ohms

My only option is 1 ohm or 4 ohms since its a single 2 ohm 12" DVC shallow mount sub.

I'm open to other amps and suggestions. This is just the ones my shop has locally.
I only need to drive 400w RMS to a single shallow mount 12" sub.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

I wouldn't worry about 1 ohm on a 110 amp alt.. at the wattage you are looking at anyways.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I wouldn't do 1 ohm with a 110a alt.

I'm genuinely curious why the driver impedance matters. 800w is 800w. (Power out) = (Power in x Efficiency). Please share a relevant read if you can.

To OP: I'd take Kicker over Skar.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I'm looking to buy one of these three today.

I agree on the Kicker800.1. Just turn gain down and all will be ok. Zero need for worry.

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

I wouldn't worry about 1 ohm on a 110 amp alt.. at the wattage you are looking at anyways.

So wrong but hey... let see.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

So wrong but hey... let see.

LOL ok..

Way back in the day we ran HCCA 225's all day long on much smaller alternators (65 amp) with zero issues..

I've been running 1600 rms @ 1 ohm in my 1994 Silverado with the Stock alternator still in service (90 amp)

The ohm load is not the issue here.. the current load a 400 watt amp @ 1 ohm is not gonna destroy alts and batteries just because it's wire to 1 ohm..

Who knows maybe you are right and I've just been lucky since the 90's

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

So wrong but hey... let see.

I'm not trying to be a dick . Please tell me.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I used to run a very inefficient 2000ish rms amp on a stock 130a alt with an AGM and the big 3 and I never had an issue. I wouldn’t hesitate to use that Kicker 800 on that alt.

 

[Slayer16102]

I am running it in 4 ohm mode at the moment. The sub is currently wired in series. Its just the way the box was already configured.

I set every single thing to flat, no loudness, no bass boost at all.
I am fixing to set the gain. I listen to rap, rock, and metal. I prefer alot of bass, but I know the shallow won't be able to do too much.

What LPF crossover frequency is recommended for this sub.
What subsonic frequency is recommended my box its a sealed box for a shallow 12.

The amp that I got today was a skar 800.1 RP. I found it for $50.00 locally.
I have already hooked it up and it runs perfectly. No issues, the guy just bought a new system for his vehicle.

I have pioneer 6800BS headunit and kicker csc654's in the doors.
What HPF frequency do you recommend for the fronts and rears. I don't mess with the EQ I just set it to flat.

Should I have overlap where the sub is 80hz lpf and the HPF is 80hz or is best to do 80hz and 100hz so they don't overlap.
I am unsure what the recommended crossover frequencies should be for a rockford 12" p3 and kicker cs 6.5's.

Last, but not least what test tone and what db is recommended the most when setting a subwoofer mono amp.

I also wanted to ask if I should set the LPF on the headunit and the amp its or just the amp.

Thanks for all of your help guys.


I was going to get the kicker 800.1 like you guys suggested, but the skar 800.1 RP for $50.00 was a great deal.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I am running it in 4 ohm mode at the moment. The sub is currently wired in series. Its just the way the box was already configured.

I set every single thing to flat, no loudness, no bass boost at all.
I am fixing to set the gain. I listen to rap, rock, and metal. I prefer alot of bass, but I know the shallow won't be able to do too much.

What LPF crossover frequency is recommended for this sub.
What subsonic frequency is recommended my box its a sealed box for a shallow 12.

The amp that I got today was a skar 800.1 RP. I found it for $50.00 locally.
I have already hooked it up and it runs perfectly. No issues, the guy just bought a new system for his vehicle.

I have pioneer 6800BS headunit and kicker csc654's in the doors.
What HPF frequency do you recommend for the fronts and rears. I don't mess with the EQ I just set it to flat.

Should I have overlap where the sub is 80hz lpf and the HPF is 80hz or is best to do 80hz and 100hz so they don't overlap.
I am unsure what the recommended crossover frequencies should be for a rockford 12" p3 and kicker cs 6.5's.

Last, but not least what test tone and what db is recommended the most when setting a subwoofer mono amp.

I also wanted to ask if I should set the LPF on the headunit and the amp its or just the amp.

Thanks for all of your help guys.


I was going to get the kicker 800.1 like you guys suggested, but the skar 800.1 RP for $50.00 was a great deal.

Most deff cant deny a $50 dollar amplifier that works for the need. If it works... RUN IT!!! Just keep in mind for future amplifier installs and removals and playing around with RCAs. Id be careful not to do any HOT SWAPPING with that HU you have. GOOD DEAL for $50 bucks, and it works!!
I was going to recommend this amp for the sub you have
https://www.ctsounds.com/products/ct-700-1d

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/ct-series-amplifiers/products/ct-400-1d

 

[Slayer16102]

I do have a few more questions for the experts here.

The $50.00 skar 800.1 skar amp I bought is missing the black rca entirely. I only have one rca plugged into the R port. The L port was ripped off by someone who previously owned it. My question here is should I get y splitter and run the two RCA's together into one port. Is that even neccessary at all given the fact its a 800.1D monoblock. It seems to play the bass just fine with the red connected only to the R port, but I am wondering if I need a y splitter to join the two into one port for some reason. See the port.
The amp works perfect for $50.00. Its just missing the L port.

I am currently running it in 4 ohm's right at 370 watts (37.6-38.0v max) which I used a DMM to configure it for max output of 370 watts using 40 hz 0 db test tone to set it.

• RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 600 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
• RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 370 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
• RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 800 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)
• Peak Power at 1 Ohm: 1,200 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v

Since the amp shouldn't do anything over 370w based upon manufacturer specs with my sub operating in 4 ohm mode

The formula I used here would be
4 ohms x 370 watts = 1480
square root of 1480 = 38.47 volts AC current to Amp with 40 Hz 0 Db test tone using a DMM.
To be on the safe side I set my volts between to start at 37.6v and max at 38.0v during full volume even when the voltage fluctuates
-.47v of 38.47v just incase of clipping at full 370 watts

Since I don't have a DD-1 anymore should I go a little bit lower than 37.6v-38.0v just to make sure I am not clipping?
My rockford P3SD2-12 shallow mount is rated at 400 watts RMS (800 watts peak). The amp is only rated at 370 watts in 4 ohm mode, so I am running the amp 30 watts less than the sub RMS.

Finally I have 4 kicker CSC654 coaxial's in my car.
The speakers are 4 ohm speakers rated at 100w RMS (300w peak) power
What amp would you recommend for these?

I'm not looking to spend too much or break SPL records here. I just want an amp that will pair nicely with my rockford P3SD2-12 400w subwoofer, my skar 800.1D, and my four kicker csc6.5" speakers. The headunit running the audio system is a pioneer 6800BS. I am only running 370 watts to the subwoofer while operating the amp in 4 ohm mode. Its not using the 1 ohm mode at all. So its capped at 370 watts in 4 ohm mode. I will eventually upgrade the subwoofer setup to two 10" kicker comp R subs in a ported box for more bass, but for now I will be running the my skar amp and my rockford p3 shallow at 370 watts.

The types of music genre's I primarily listen to are rap, rock and metal. Would two 10" kicker comp R's hit harder than my P3SD2-12 shallow? Will a full size 10 hit harder than a 12" shallow being its full size? Would the two 10" subs be worth the upgrade and make any noticeable difference? Is it worth getting the higher grade comp's R's for more deep bass given the fact my sub amp only runs 800w at 1 ohm? Its in a C5 corvette so I can't fit anything over 10" subs. The trunk space is limited.

Would you recommend 3 8's or two 10's? Ported or sealed for this amp and the music I listen to? 1 or 2 subs for my skar 800.1D? I can't do a 12" box or a 15" box due to trunk limitations. I prefer nice deep bass that hits hard, but I don't expect the boom of a 15" sub either.

Sorry for so many questions here. I just want to be sure I am choosing the right stuff for my future upgrade path. I already know that I want a little bit more bass than my 12, but no more than what my skar amp can push on my 110 amp alternator.
Due to the trunk size limitations I will never be able to put anything more than 10's in my car. I am looking to have a good sound system in my c5 corvette without breaking the bank. My current 12" sits flush in the spare tire location. Its designed for the car. My future box wouldn't sit in there.