Idmax true rms

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

not sure where you’re getting that they recommend 500 from

IDMAX | imagedynamicsusa

www.imagedynamicsusa.net

I wanted to see if they could increase the thermal capacity.

No, or not significantly. A coil is a coil and it's likely ID already uses a good quality American made coil, one that's sized appropriately for the gap, and one that gives the expected performance. There's no magic fairy dust that (insert meme parts re-seller here) is going to sprinkle on a coil to make it survive too much heat. In my experience the only thing that doesn't really matter is the cone but for suspension and coil you absolutely must use the exact same thing if you want the same performance.

IDMax is a fantastic sounding woofer and will really shine if you're working with a 500-600W amp. If that's not going to be loud enough and you need to get louder with more power as opposed to sacrificing more space you need to decide how much power (and still how much space you want to use) and work from there. My rule on power handling is if you have to ask and/or you absolutely don't care if you blow stuff up do not try to run more power than recommended to speakers.

Keep in mind that in perfect conditions (ie. never going to happen in real life) you would gain +3dB from doubling power for reference that's about two clicks on the typical volume knob on a head unit. Bear that in mind when you consider what it all is really worth to try to jump into a 1200W amp and 1200W capable woofer.

 

[mastershake575]

IDMAX | imagedynamicsusa

www.imagedynamicsusa.net

No, or not significantly. A coil is a coil and it's likely ID already uses a good quality American made coil, one that's sized appropriately for the gap, and one that gives the expected performance. There's no magic fairy dust that (insert meme parts re-seller here) is going to sprinkle on a coil to make it survive too much heat. In my experience the only thing that doesn't really matter is the cone but for suspension and coil you absolutely must use the exact same thing if you want the same performance.

IDMax is a fantastic sounding woofer and will really shine if you're working with a 500-600W amp. If that's not going to be loud enough and you need to get louder with more power as opposed to sacrificing more space you need to decide how much power (and still how much space you want to use) and work from there. My rule on power handling is if you have to ask and/or you absolutely don't care if you blow stuff up do not try to run more power than recommended to speakers.

Keep in mind that in perfect conditions (ie. never going to happen in real life) you would gain +3dB from doubling power for reference that's about two clicks on the typical volume knob on a head unit. Bear that in mind when you consider what it all is really worth to try to jump into a 1200W amp and 1200W capable woofer.

good post. The whole purpose of subs like the ID Max, JBL WGTI, jl w6, alpine x, incriminator flatline, ssa hellion, DD 2500 series......ect is to offer a great blend of sound quality and efficiency on 500 to 700 watt setups

The problem is people try to treat these subs like SPL subs when they're not. Throwing a bunch of sloppy power at in efficient well-crafted sub is pointless, the whole point of them is that you don't have to just throw raw power at them

They're popular for people who like better sound quality and especially those that don't want to invest heavily in electrical upgrades

 

[teoulennon 10+ year member]

Would they be able to handle more power in a sealed box? I was going to shoot for 2 10" sealed w/ 1k rms to each.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I was going to shoot for 2 10" sealed w/ 1k rms to each.

Well if you're not going to believe us or ID the only thing for it is for you to give it a whirl and report back.

 

[teoulennon 10+ year member]

Well if you're not going to believe us or ID the only thing for it is for you to give it a whirl and report back.

Lol will do! I’ll let everyone know how it goes

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Would they be able to handle more power in a sealed box? I was going to shoot for 2 10" sealed w/ 1k rms to each.

Dude... are you just throwing power at them just for the sake of throwing power at subs or are you trying to get loud? because the 1st option just leads to blown subs and weak bass. Getting loud is all in the enclosure and how efficient it is. Sealed enclosures are not efficient at all along with poor heat management as well with no ventilation. They handle power better mostly mechanically but thermally its the same as ported or slightly worse due to no cooling. You can throw half the power to the subs in a properly designed custom ported box and still get way louder with better bandwidth than sealed.

 

[teoulennon 10+ year member]

Dude... are you just throwing power at them just for the sake of throwing power at subs or are you trying to get loud? because the 1st option just leads to blown subs and weak bass. Getting loud is all in the enclosure and how efficient it is. Sealed enclosures are not efficient at all along with poor heat management as well with no ventilation. They handle power better mostly mechanically but thermally its the same as ported or slightly worse due to no cooling. You can throw half the power to the subs in a properly designed custom ported box and still get way louder with better bandwidth than sealed.

I actually thought they could handle 1krms based on the manual until I saw this thread. Seems strange they would say 1krms, but recommended is 500rms on the website.
I was planning on 2 sealed (under the seat of a '19 f250 w/ a seat lift) because I want sq w/ a flat response and spl, but now I'm leaning towards putting them in a ported gately box that's 3ft @35hz.

 

[VON-Don-Ta]

turn that xxx into an 18 or 15.

The goal here is to sound good and get loud right? Not to throw a **** ton of power to a sub for the sake of saying the sub can handle the power. Efficiency and box design should be the main focus, not the power handling. You can push a **** ton of air on just 500 watts.

Why do people act like the only word that matters is watts cuz I have had up to like 1800rms all hooked up at my house but because the air path and power supply being a tuned amp for each speaker it’s still couldn’t resist and push as hard or fast as I’m my car now I lose my mind trying to get every factor to have perfect clarity in bass and treble and eq for close and farther range

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I actually thought they could handle 1krms based on the manual until I saw this thread. Seems strange they would say 1krms, but recommended is 500rms on the website.
I was planning on 2 sealed (under the seat of a '19 f250 w/ a seat lift) because I want sq w/ a flat response and spl, but now I'm leaning towards putting them in a ported gately box that's 3ft @35hz.

Use the RMS rating as a guide. The IDMax can probably take a clean 1000 RMS in the right enclosure. People “overpower” subs all the time with no issues and others blow **** up. The IDMax doesn’t need gobs of power to do what it needs to do. It’s a great SQ woofer then get down some off of minimal power.