Help with best way to wire sub and amp.

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Massive4x4

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have a kicker 300.1-2ohm and a kicker comp dvc speaker also 2ohm. I'm not sure if I should wire the amp straight to the one set of leads off the speaker or link the other two channels to the amp as well? I'm afraid if I do use both leads of the dvc it will bridge it to low of an ohm for my amp to handel. What do u think. This is just a sub underneath my back seat.
 
I have a kicker 300.1-2ohm and a kicker comp dvc speaker also 2ohm. I'm not sure if I should wire the amp straight to the one set of leads off the speaker or link the other two channels to the amp as well? I'm afraid if I do use both leads of the dvc it will bridge it to low of an ohm for my amp to handel. What do u think. This is just a sub underneath my back seat.
 

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Like ThxOne said. Run a wire from a positive to a negative on the sub. Then run the other two straight to the amp. This will be 4 ohms so the amp will give less power. But it will be safe, run cooler, and consume less power. 150 watts rms is still a pretty nice bump imo.
 
If the sub and the amp both say 2ohm I can't run it at 2ohm? Not doubting either one of your opinions. I just don't understand why it would be harder on it to run it at 2ohms. Also if I do run it at 4ohm, which I most likely will, will it hake less bump than at 2ohms. If I do go in at 2ohms would it be safe i I just leave the gains down a bit? I'm just trying to get this right. After I get all this done ill post questions on how to properly set up the amp, ie gain, hrz and so forth. Thx in advance.
 
If the sub and the amp both say 2ohm I can't run it at 2ohm? Not doubting either one of your opinions. I just don't understand why it would be harder on it to run it at 2ohms. Also if I do run it at 4ohm, which I most likely will, will it hake less bump than at 2ohms. If I do go in at 2ohms would it be safe i I just leave the gains down a bit? I'm just trying to get this right. After I get all this done ill post questions on how to properly set up the amp, ie gain, hrz and so forth. Thx in advance.
Your sub can only be run at 2ohm+2ohm(great for 2 channel amps), 1ohm, 4ohm. Running it at 1ohm will definitely burn your amp once you forget the setting and crank it on that one bassy track. I have personally seen it.
 
I appreciate all the advice you guys have given me.also trying to help me figure this out. I just had a wrench thrown in to my whole situation with my sub amp in my truck. I purchased my Son a 10" sub woffer and amp for his car for his birthday. He told me that hes not really in to stereo systems like I am. So here's the deal. I have a brand new JL10TW3 - D4 dual voice coil and a new Kenwood X 500 - 1, 1000 W, 300 W times 4. Or I have my brand new kicker comp 12" DVC with my new 300.1 kicker mono and. What would be some of your suggestions on how I should run these Amps and speakers? Thx in advance.
 
I appreciate all the advice you guys have given me.also trying to help me figure this out. I just had a wrench thrown in to my whole situation with my sub amp in my truck. I purchased my Son a 10" sub woffer and amp for his car for his birthday. He told me that hes not really in to stereo systems like I am. So here's the deal. I have a brand new JL10TW3 - D4 dual voice coil and a new Kenwood X 500 - 1, 1000 W, 300 W times 4. Or I have my brand new kicker comp 12" DVC with my new 300.1 kicker mono and. What would be some of your suggestions on how I should run these Amps and speakers? Thx in advance.
That JL is perfect for your Kicker amp. That sub can be wired to 2ohms, and it is designed for a tiny box. On a sealed it only needs .5 cubic foot, and .6 cubic foot ported at 42hz. I did not understand what your Kenwood amp is/are. Would you post a model number? Btw, that JL sub, niice.
 
The app model number is X 500 -1. The JL Audio sub has one voice coil positive is ran to the positive side of the plug in for the wire off the amp the second voice coil wire is ran to the same plug in coming off that amp. The negative voice coil one is running to the plug-in built inside of the box for the negative terminal voice coil 2 negative runs to that same terminal at this time..
 
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If possible I would like to use the kicker 500.1 if its the best one to use. The reason being is because I've purchased kicker 1 25.2 for the rear speakers and kicker 1 25.2 for the front speakers. If I do go with the JL sub which I'm ninety-nine percent sure I will. How should I wire the sub to m
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y 300.1 Kicker amp. I gave a general discussion on how the sub is wired inside of the box. I'm just wanting to know if that's the correct way to hook it up to my amp
 
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The app model number is X 500 -1. The JL Audio sub is B 1 voice coil positive is ran to the positive side of the plug in for the wire off the amp the second voice coil wire is ran to the same plug in coming off that amp. The negative voice coil one is running to the plug-in built inside of the box for the negative terminal voice coil 2 negative runs to that same terminal at this time..
Just saw the specs on the Kenwood. It is perfect for the JL, 500wx1 @2ohms. From your reply it sounds like the JL is already in a box. If that is so, then yes. The sub positives go together then to the positive of the amp. Now the negatives go together, then to the negative of the amp.
 
If possible I would like to use the kicker 500.1 if its the best one to use. The reason being is because I've purchased kicker 1 25.2 for the rear speakers and kicker 1 25.2 for the front speakers. If I do go with the JL sub which I'm ninety-nine percent sure I will. How should I wire the sub to my 300.1 Kicker amp. I gave a general discussion on how the sub is wired inside of the box. I'm just wanting to know if that's the correct way to hook it up to my amp
I am now vexed, do you have an Kicker 500.1 and a Kicker 300.1?
 
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Massive4x4

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