New Here.. I Need Help With Rewiring My System

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Don't have one personally but I will either have someone else do that for me or just purchase one

Super useful tool to have. Not only for car audio. Can get an average DMM for under $20.

 

[PurpleHaze13]

Super useful tool to have. Not only for car audio. Can get an average DMM for under $20.

Thanks.. looking on Amazon for one right now as we speak

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Thanks.. looking on Amazon for one right now as we speak

Like you already found out, get a good ground to that amp. 0 gauge is way too thick of a cable and hard to work with. I would get a 4 awg kit instead. Make sure it says 4 AWG and not 4 gauge. It will be anywhere $40-$75. Connect straight to battery with the kit's fuse 1 foot or less from the battery positive post. Positive to red post and Negative to black post of the battery. With the extra 4 awg cable, wire the engine with the body of the car. The strut/shock tower will be the best spot. Remove one nut that holds the strut in place and scrape the paint off until you reach clean metal. Crimp a terminal onto the cable tip and place into the tower bolt, washer on top of that, then the nut on top of that, tighten. Now do the same with a bolt on the engine. It may be hard to find one but is important. This will make sure that 100% of the power reaches your battery. This pic is the best I could find. Red is the wire and tips are bolts.

 

[PurpleHaze13]

Like you already found out, get a good ground to that amp. 0 gauge is way too thick of a cable and hard to work with. I would get a 4 awg kit instead. Make sure it says 4 AWG and not 4 gauge. It will be anywhere $40-$75. Connect straight to battery with the kit's fuse 1 foot or less from the battery positive post. Positive to red post and Negative to black post of the battery. With the extra 4 awg cable, wire the engine with the body of the car. The strut/shock tower will be the best spot. Remove one nut that holds the strut in place and scrape the paint off until you reach clean metal. Crimp a terminal onto the cable tip and place into the tower bolt, washer on top of that, then the nut on top of that, tighten. Now do the same with a bolt on the engine. It may be hard to find one but is important. This will make sure that 100% of the power reaches your battery. This pic is the best I could find. Red is the wire and tips are bolts.View attachment 21335

The type of car I have doesn't have a battery under the hood it is in the trunk. Instructions still the same? I stand corrected also. I currently have 4gauge wires not 0.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

The type of car I have doesn't have a battery under the hood it is in the trunk. Instructions still the same? I stand corrected also. I currently have 4gauge wires not 0.

That picture is of a Cobalt. The red line is your wire. The ends are the bolts where you will connect that wire.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

That picture is of a Cobalt. The red line is your wire. The ends are the bolts where you will connect that wire.

Oh my bad. The instructions are for wiring the amp in the trunk. Since your post said the battery is back there, I figured you will have extra cable for the engine grounding. That is a separate task from the amp wiring.