Gather 'round the campfire, new project is a brewin' *56k, yeah right*

the schematic looks alright. do you have some close up pics of the pc board. there could be a bad trace.

NVM i found the pics of the board.

edit.

if there are no broken tracks check your caps. one might be inop.

 
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=97051&perpage=10&pagenumber=2

I win, I posted the problem first.. here ... on this forum ......... neener............

You have no faith, tail between the legs and retreating to DIYaudio.com //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

You get no cookie //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Yep! Got it working. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

It's literally sera i giorno, I can feel people playing string bass now. The biggest thing to change is the midrange. It is simply ASTOUNDING. Light and airy when needs to be, and robust and full without being harsh and boomy. The tweeters are still disappointing though, I shouldn't have half-assed it the first time around //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
It's 2k both ways. I found that the midrange was FAR too forward, so I plotted my old x-over, and there was a HUGE peak in the woofer response right around 150-200hz or so. I started playing around with attenuation techniques, and I threw on that l-pad and it flattened it out. Believe me, I had forgotten about the l-pad until someone mentioned it after my first listen, but good GOD it helped. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
L-pad doesn't change the frequency response, it only reduces power to the drivers.

If your tweeter has no lpad and your woofers are too forward, then you can

l-pad the woofers to reduce power so the SPL level is reduced to match the

tweeter.

If you add another L-pad to the tweeter, you now reduce tweeter SPL and

you are back to square one.

I don't know what attenuation levels you programmed, but lets assume

that you did a quick experiment. Bypass the l-pads and listen to the sound.

If the woofers dominate, then install the woofer l-pad and retest. If ok, then no

need for the tweeter l-pad.

If the tweeter dominated in the no l-pad test, then you l-pad the tweeters

and not the woofers.

You probably need a zobel on the woofers.

http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html

 
I believe that there's a 4dB on the tweet and a 2 dB on the woofer. The tweeter was outrageous, and even with the new slope, the woofers still had some peakiness. This isn't the same l-pad as before either.

 
You can do some listening sessions to see if you can optimize the project more.

I believe that there's a 4dB on the tweet and a 2 dB on the woofer.

If you do 0dB on the woofers and 2dB on the tweeters, the results are the same

but the speakers will get more power from your amp with this config because

there is less attentuation on both drivers types.

The tweeter was outrageous

I still haven't figured out what your tweeter issue is... skinny ?

Keep in mind that some resistors of low ohms are wire wound, I don't

know if you snagged regular ones or non inductive resistors, because

wirewound resistors are inductors and you will get some low pass action

on those tweeters filtering the top end off. I don' t know the specs so I can't

say if that effect is taking place, most likely it's outside the audio range.

and even with the new slope, the woofers still had some peakiness.

.. because the L-pad doesn't affect FR [assumng non inductive l-pad]

Using the Dayton Reference Series 7" woofer

People that use this driver use 4th - 8th order crossovers to filter out

the nasty break up modes.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-374g.pdf

If you turn off the tweeter and just listen to the woofers, if you hear any

high frequency sizzle {fo sizzle my woofinizzle}, then you need a steeper

slope and/or lower crossover frequency. If it sounds good to you as is, leave it

alone.

If the tweeter SPL in relation to the woofers is not high enough, then bypass

the l-pad and do another listening test.

This is where a DCX comes in handy. You can figure all this out in minutes and

determine the best crossover and you can translate those settings into a passive crossover

design [or keep the DCX on the speaker]. If you migrate to this methodology, you'd be taking a huge leap forward vs.

traditional methods.

 
Hmm, interesting. The tweeter is bad not because of the x-over, it just isn't a good tweeter. It's very shrill and sometimes beams like a mother****er.

 
Yep! Got it working. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
It's literally sera i giorno, I can feel people playing string bass now. The biggest thing to change is the midrange. It is simply ASTOUNDING. Light and airy when needs to be, and robust and full without being harsh and boomy. The tweeters are still disappointing though, I shouldn't have half-assed it the first time around //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Remember who the guy was who said you should change your crossover... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Remember who the guy was who said you should change your crossover... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
He was going to use 1st order?

The tweeter is bad not because of the x-over, it just isn't a good tweeter. It's very shrill and sometimes beams like a mother****er.
Poor tweeter, no love.

You can identify if the shrill is due to midrange or very high frequency? A 4th order

crossover is good and it should work nice at 2khz, but maybe that tweeter

just needs a we-bit higher, maybe 2.5khz. Even a dog can be made to sound

good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif *coughbuyadcx*

 
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