Gather 'round the campfire, new project is a brewin' *56k, yeah right*

LOL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

I wasn't expecting that.

 
Hey all! I finally got my new x-overs...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/woot.gif.aaa6090e619a97b6090d16dd863c5a69.gif

First person to correctly name the slope configuration (minus B&W since we discussed it) gets a pat on the back.

Anyway, this is my first time using this involved of a slope, so I hope it's good. All parts are jantzen, and I think I did pretty well. It was also my first time using PCBs, and I completely ruined three of them learning how to properly draw and etch them. I finally figured it out, heated up my FeCL3 and got to work. As you'll see in one of the pictures, the etch resist apparently wasn't resisting too great, so I had to make a little "bridge" with some jumper wire. Not too worried though, since the ****er is on there pretty **** snug. One thing I did notice is that I had quite a few cold solder joints. What causes that? Many of them were shiny and smooth, but some were still kinda rough. What do ya do about that? Comments and suggestions are welcomed, although I'm not changing these out. Will have results up tonight.

IMG_0090.jpg


IMG_0095.jpg


IMG_0094.jpg


IMG_94.jpg


IMG_0092.jpg


Note the SWEET electrical tape that's supposed to block the magnetic field.

IMG_0097.jpg


IMG_0096.jpg


IMG_0100.jpg


IMG_0102.jpg


-Dave

 
Oh BTW, the rough edges of the board are from me taking them to the table saw and cutting .5" off them...they didn't like that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Etchant likes to be agitated while it eats your copper. This gives a cleaner trace etch and it

etches faster. If you did PCB's all the time, a small glass tank filled with etchant

{plus lid} with an aquarium pump blowing bubbles via a long tube inside the tank

works great. Just suspend the PCB in the tank using a string and them bubbles agitate well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Yeah see, the first one I did I just let it soak (first of the successes I mean). The second one, I agitated it a bit and got bored, so I set it on the washing machine and put it on a spin setting and it agitated it for me, but still took 1.5 hrs (versus 3 for the first one). The FeCl3 is radioshack stuff, and it says 20 minutes....yeah right.

 
Looks awesome!

As far as the traces, I can get copper foil that can be cut in the plotter - perfect traces, and adhesive to boot!

So if you get into complex (or small) PCB designing, LMK.

Subscribed to the build

 
Haha man, the build is over. But thank you. I'm trying to wait as long as I can to listen to them, makes them all the better or all the worse //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

And unfortunately, the only thing I'll be using PCBs for is x-overs, and unfortunately again, I usually only make them for myself. I mean, would YOU buy a filter from someone in high school for your expensive speakers? Nope, probably not. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Probably can, but I don't have any that I know will resist the etchant, so I would rather not take the chance wasting them.

 
1. Not even close //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

2. Notice the tweeter and the woofer have different slopes as it is...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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