Gather 'round the campfire, new project is a brewin' *56k, yeah right*

And no, do NOT go to the rat shack for soldering advice. That's where I made my mistake. On a PC board, you have holes that are surrounded by a ring of tin or copper, and what you want to do is, stick the metal sticks from the components through the holes, touch the soldering tip to the component AND the hole (heat the connection, NOT the solder), and slowly feed the solder into it. If done right, it'll be nice and shiny and form a kind of pyramid. If it's grey and rough, it's called a cold solder joint, and you don't want that. Just use solder with flux in it, it's too **** hard otherwise. I like the Dayton silver solder on PE.
OK, I have some rosin core solder which I think has flux in it... I'll have to check on that. How exactly are the components connected on a PC board, through the copper lines or do you have to attach the leads to wire?

 
If you have already traced your circuit, then it's just solder and go. Since the breadboards I got were absolute mierda, i had to use some jumper wires. They are thin and cheap, but get the job done. I'm just hoping my shitbox X-overs don't hold the speaker back.

 
Prototyping Board {printed circuit board} comes in many different designs.

It's pretty expensive actually and you can use a cheaper method to wire up

crossovers.

Protoboards [simple to complex].

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=237-0119&SEARCH=&ID=&DESC=8000%2D45&R=237%2D0119&sid=45A2DB004273E17F

1. The circuit board typically FR4 material with pre-drilled holes. Hole size varies

per design, and hole center to center spacing is typically 100 mils. The cheap

board has no copper pads so when you install a component, there is nothing to

solder the lead to. The only way to make this work nice is to glue each component

to the PCB so it won't fall off. Kinda stinks if you have to modify your design later.

2. The good PCB is where there is a copper pad around the hole so you can

solder the component lead to it as it secures the component in place so it

doesn't fall off the board.

3. The next type of PCB is where they put a pad on both sides of the PCB and

plate through the hole so there is electrical connection between the top and bottom side pads. Do you need this? No really but it cost more.

4. They also make esoteric protoboards with buss bars where a group of pads

are all connected together electrically to form a common bus. For instance,

you can use this as a power and ground buss. Once you solder the parts to

the bus, no additional wiring is needed as the pcb has the bus trace.

5. They also make other weird protoboards so beware of what you buy.

DIY PCB

One cheap way to make your own circuit on a PCB is to get some copper

clad board, ink resist pen, and some etchant. You do some preliminary parts

placement on the board and estimate where the component holes will be

and draw a solid pad using the pen. Draw a pad much bigger than the hole

size that you plan to drill later. Draw all the component holes. Then

draw the circuit with the pen connecting the dots according to the schematic.

Draw thick traces. Etch the board. Drill the component pads. Install the parts,

solder. /done

The fancy way to do this is using rub on decals or you do the design on

a computer and transfer the design to the copper clad board or have a fab

house build your custom board [not cheap].

DIY non PCB

Get some thin hardwood {masonite} 1/8" if you can find it. Mount your parts,

drill some holes, use tie wraps or glue to hold the parts in place. Point to point

wiring.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Optimo_bestanden/image050.jpg

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/HATT-III_bestanden/image024.jpg

Whatever method you choose, SQ will not be affected.

 
Ah, but I am in school 5 days a week, plus I'm almost always in south bend every saturday, then I do my homework on sunday. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Ah, but I am in school 5 days a week, plus I'm almost always in south bend every saturday, then I do my homework on sunday. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I work full time when I'm at home ya know... What do you do in the evening, thats the time when the stuff starts happenin in the woodshop...

Oh and yea, your slow.

P1010105.jpg


 
I'm extremely slow when it comes to my own work, but if it's for a customer, there's a 1-3 day turnaround. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Okay, preliminary work is finished, time to cut the recesses tomorrow and have a listen!

Pics later.

 
Okay, preliminary work is finished, time to cut the recesses tomorrow and have a listen!
Pics later.
dont keep us waiting or else //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
My braces have nice roundovers on them, so I'm wondering, fellow ca.com 'ers, should I round over the sides of the baffle?

 
To keep things short, these are the best sounding speakers I've ever heard. Arrogant or not, these were to try to replicate the sound of the Definitive bipolar towers, but at a fraction of the cost. I wouldn't even think about those after hearing these things. Detail is ASTOUNDING, the bass is mindblowing (first speakers I've ever had where I don't even want a sub), and they just melt into the room. Now, there is a problem. The top woofer on the right speaker has a rubbing voice coil. The cone doesn't even move smoothly when I push on it, it sounds like you're clearing your throat or scraping ice off the freezer. I can even see it misaligned when I look around the phase plug. No matter, another one is on the way (well, at least ordered). Pics don't slow down shipping, however. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

IMG_0328.jpg


IMG_0331.jpg


IMG_0333.jpg


IMG_0335.jpg


IMG_0341.jpg


IMG_0342.jpg


Would like to note that this is the first, well, first successful time that I've done a flush mounting of the speakers, and I must say that I am very impressed, but tired. There has to be an easier way than what I was doing. I used my plunge base with the Jasper jig, set the depth of the recess using a ruler and eyeballing it, then did about 3 successively smaller circles until I got down to the cutout width. Oh well, at least it was fun. Comments are welcomed, criticisms even more so, and I'll have a REAL review once I have a working speaker.

 
i love how you took a chunk out of the tweeter mounting area. nice.
I hope that's sarcasm because that was done for a reason. When you flush mount, you need to clear an area for the terminals to go through. Look on any flush mounted tweeter and you'll see the same.

 
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