Gather 'round the campfire, new project is a brewin' *56k, yeah right*

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

these aren't going to take you months to finish like the last ones are they? because i'll click unsubscribe right now. i swear.

No, haha, you have to remember that was six speakers plus painting...during the school year. These should be done within a decent amount of time.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

looking good so far. for the xovers have you though about just buy the pcb boards and making the traces your self it will look more professional that way. here is a link for a store with good prices, http://www.oselectronics.com/ose_p55.htm im sure you can find it cheaper on ebay or something.

Man, that looks incredibly advanced for me, plus, I haven't the faintest idea as to what I'd be doing. Basically, I want a undrilled breadboard where I can drill my holes, and then basically put in my components and trace the connections and solder the components down. Know what I mean?

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

yeah i know what youre saying. i have done both since i have built audio amplifiers in the past. and have found that making your own pcboards is the best way to go and really they are not as complicated as they seem to be. im sure youll get it right on your first try.

but i think mouser electronics sells the boards that youre looking for.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the tip, lookin now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[96civ 10+ year member]

Quote:Originally Posted by 96civ

Is there a tutorial on how to make x-overs? That sounds 100% noobish, but oh well.

this should get you started.

or this

That site helped out a lot thanks, but the component table on the site showing the farads and henries with respective to impedance and order is very blurry does anyone have that same list that I could have?

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

That site helped out a lot thanks, but the component table on the site showing the farads and henries with respective to impedance and order is very blurry does anyone have that same list that I could have?

there is this 1

and this 2

this 3

this 4

or this 5

last but not least

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Or if that's still too confusing for you...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=248-669&raid=43&rak=248-669

Active is always a nice way to go //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

Or if that's still too confusing for you...http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=248-669&raid=43&rak=248-669

Active is always a nice way to go //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

This is the best tool for the money. $250

People spend big money on woodworking tools, why not $250 on

an audio tool? /hehe

This will teach you more about audio in 1 month than other people learn

in years doing it the harder way.

In theory, you can prototype a system using the DCX and figure out

the best slope and crossover frequency for that design by doing listening

tests vs. software modeling provided that you are building a system to sound good

to the listener vs. being technical correct as technically correct won't guarantee satisfaction.

Then........ take those DCX parameters and build your passive crossover

and you will be in a good ballpark.

But the typical passive crossover won't have the extra goodies also found in

the DCX like delays and fancy EQ, etc.

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

hey, I have one of those. Was going to use it in my next system, but can't decide if I want to spend the money anymore //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif. I might be selling mine soon if anybody is interested.

on another note, the speakers look decent, but I would consider rounding the baffle edges.

 

[96civ 10+ year member]

Or if that's still too confusing for you...http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...43&rak=248-669

That's the epitome of sexy...

PV, that setup you're making looks tight as h3ll. I'm planning on doing something similar with the tower box and similar speakers. What are you going to use to amp your speakers, cuz I've looked through partsexpress and the amps are either way too expensive or not powerful enough to push the daytons?

Even though it'd be a better option to go active, especially with the x-over listed above, I'm going the DIY way due to cost. How do you solder components together using a PCB board? I've never done it and I was thinking about going into Radioshack to ask, but those guys are morons.

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

Active is always a nice way to go //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

True, but the total of over 1k in equipment (easily over 1k) kinda drives people away from a full active setup....

*I love my active*

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

True, but the total of over 1k in equipment (easily over 1k) kinda drives people away from a full active setup....
*I love my active*

Cost $50 for a pair of generic Dayton 2nd order crossovers, $90 for

3 ways.

Lets say you build your own crossover and used > 2nd order, lets say

you wanted 4th order or even 8th order. It's easy to spend more than

$250 on a passive crossover only good for one design.

If you only build one loudspeaker for yourself ever, the passive vs. active

crossover is probably equal in cost as you can buy old school analog active ones

for about $100. The extra cost incurred by active is the extra amp channels you need.

There are some low cost amps on the market that make active attractive.

If you upgrade your old speaker and build another, discarding the old one,

there is no additional cost as you will reuse the DCX, but need to spend more

coin on a new passive crossover. /hehe

If you build speakers for other people for profit, passive is better so you

can make money on the passive crossover design and markup the costs of

the parts you buy for them. /harr harr

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

Another problem wiht active is that if you go to sell them, not many people can power them, to listen to them somewhere else you have to move all the f'ing equipment, etc, etc. But I do believe the advantages outweight the cost, hence I have active. *currently*

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

That's the epitome of sexy...
PV, that setup you're making looks tight as h3ll. I'm planning on doing something similar with the tower box and similar speakers. What are you going to use to amp your speakers, cuz I've looked through partsexpress and the amps are either way too expensive or not powerful enough to push the daytons?

Even though it'd be a better option to go active, especially with the x-over listed above, I'm going the DIY way due to cost. How do you solder components together using a PCB board? I've never done it and I was thinking about going into Radioshack to ask, but those guys are morons.

Man, I'm just using an old integrated amplifier my grandfather gave me. I honestly have no money to spend on audio at the moment (well, amplifiers should I say), and you can drop money faster buying a pre-amp than you can a subwoofer, so I'll stick to the IA for now. I DO want to get a phono stage some time soon, but that'll have to wait as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

True, but the total of over 1k in equipment (easily over 1k) kinda drives people away from a full active setup....
*I love my active*

It is kinda expensive. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

And no, do NOT go to the rat shack for soldering advice. That's where I made my mistake. On a PC board, you have holes that are surrounded by a ring of tin or copper, and what you want to do is, stick the metal sticks from the components through the holes, touch the soldering tip to the component AND the hole (heat the connection, NOT the solder), and slowly feed the solder into it. If done right, it'll be nice and shiny and form a kind of pyramid. If it's grey and rough, it's called a cold solder joint, and you don't want that. Just use solder with flux in it, it's too **** hard otherwise. I like the Dayton silver solder on PE.