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Jasdip

Vehicle Jerks to Subwoofer Beat While Accelerating

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I have a 2011 Range Rover Supercharged (full size) and for like 5-6 years I didn't have any problems but now when I am accelerating, the vehicle slightly jerks when the subwoofer hits. If I am driving at a constant speed, you can feel the vehicle lose some power as if you let off the gas and on again very quick or quickly tapped the brake; you can also see the bump in the RPM on the gauge as well. When climbing a hill, it is very noticeable too.

 

We first thought it was an old battery problem and replaced the battery; that didn't help. Next, we found out the alternator had issues and that was replaced with a new one; that didn't help with the jerking.

 

I am about to purchase a new capacitor, likley a 3 farad and installing that to see if it gets better.

 

Does anyone have any idea where the problem might be?

 

The set up is as follows:

 

2 Alpine Type X suboofers

2 Alpine PDXM12 1200W amplifiers

1 Farad Pheonix Gold Capacitor

 

Thank you.

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Cap isn't going to help. There pretty pointless. Its def a electrical issue. My Accord used to do the same thing until I got my HO alternator.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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The strange thing though is that with the factory alternator it worked just fine for several years.. and now it’s been replaced with a new one too..

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Voltage drop from too weak of an electrical system. The voltage is getting so low the car's systems are beginning to shut down.


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But since everything worked fine for several years with the factory alternator and battery without issues, and since both have recently been replaced with new ones, is there anything else that can be the cause of this voltage drop that I should be looking at?

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Any recommendations on which connections to check and where? Aside from basically the connections to the battery, amplifier connections, capacitor connections..

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Voltage drop from too weak of an electrical system. The voltage is getting so low the car's systems are beginning to shut down.

 

+1

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It is a loose connection somewhere. Probably a loose ground under the hood. I would suggest doing “the big 3” upgrade. If you don’t know what that is, it is basically adding extra grounds and power wire under the hood too help carry the extra load of your amplifiers. Look on YouTube for a tutorial.


digital designs 9512h with cf cap

sundown saz 3000d at 2 ohms

meca legal 141.3 db on the headrest with a 34hz tuned daily box

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It is a loose connection somewhere. Probably a loose ground under the hood. I would suggest doing “the big 3” upgrade. If you don’t know what that is, it is basically adding extra grounds and power wire under the hood too help carry the extra load of your amplifiers. Look on YouTube for a tutorial.

 

I like the Big 3 Addition myself.Id check all grounds,amp and battery connections/reface/clean,power supply wiring same thing at battery, fuse connector(i replace my supply fuse every year, They get weak over time from Heat and from road vibrations as well).Two years or more of depending on the old wiring to keep a constant supply and demand, is just not very good practice of maintaining your needs.Wiring corrodes under the hood due to moisture and road rash debris over time.


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I have and had issues with my front end on my truck and problems steering down the highway and had spent lots of time making the components new and up to date to find out it was just the vibrations of the subs when they hit..Bad tire, not balanced properly, bad shocks, bad pivot arm ect.


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I will check and reseat all the connections at the battery, amplifier, and capacitor. I also have a circuit breaker instead of a fuse, I will check the connection there as well. I have been advised to check voltage at the battery and amplifiers under no stress and stress.. I will report those numbers back once I’ve got them as well

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Ok, so I did some testing with a good friend of mine (whose pretty good with sound systems and electrical stuff) and here is what we found:

 

With the sound system off:

 

Battery: 14.3v

Amplifiers, capacitor, circuit breaker: about 14v

 

With sound system on and bass turned to full and volume blasted (lowest values which were hit):

 

Battery: 13v

Rear Fuse Panel: 11.2v

Amplifiers: under 12v (between 11-12)

 

We also noticed that the system was installed with a 4 gauge wire which was not even independently run to the battery in the front, it is piggy-backing off the rear fuse box power which also has a 4 gauge running to the battery. When I was at land rover today, the service manager confirmed that everything behind the fuel tank and a lot of stuff related to fuel pumps, injectors, etc. are controlled from that box and it's basically a small computer which also needs power and, as we suspected, that could likely be causing the jerking.. See image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wwku1vfuj10kdc2/IMG_9160.JPG?dl=0

 

The service manager did say that people normally run a second battery in those trucks.. and the Bentley's and others come stock with 2 batteries as well and one runs the electronics..

 

My friend said that he feels that the capacitor is probably shot as well and replacing that with a higher powered one (he suggests 10 or even 20 farad, even though I think a 3 farad would suffice) may help with the issue but recommends also running a 0 gauge power wire to the battery (adding a second battery is ideal of course but that is way too much more work/cost)..

 

Let me know your thoughts..

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