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wew lad

Avoid PPI and Soundstream DSP's

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I dont necessarily need one myself, but I wouldnt mind trying one out, especially as it is quite universal

2)American Bass VFL Mini Hybrid 4480.1D@1ohm Ea 4)American Bass XFL DVC 4ohm 12s@2.06cu Ft Ea.@32htz CDT 6,5 HD6 Briax.,CDT CL60,CDT 25 tweets,Kicker KS25 tweets Autotek Mean Machine 99@2ohms,Autotek BTX 7204@40hms AlterStarts Alt 255A/Dallas,Tx,2)Orileys Super Start AGM batts(1more coming)Cadence CCA 0ga on Big 6,AudioTechnix 0ga CCA Kicker Kq9 Eq,Eclipse CD3000(lookingfor upgrade)StingerPro Distro,3)XS Scorpian 8in Scroll Fans 1998 3dr Xcab Chevy(under construction,but operational)

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THAT is a KILLER! That dayton might be what I am looking for. And I like the Windows software option as well as the Bluetooth. Yea, the price is going to climb up to about $180, but out of the box, all you need is a Windows laptop, and Everyone can get access to an old Tablet windows based PC. You don't need anything fast to do the job. Hell, you can even use a wireless USB if you find a dongle that works. But in all, **** good deal.


I think the only thing that really is missing is the autotune feature, or a mic input that does the calibration for you. But that's just on about every Consumer level deck out there and most of the time its just not quite as good as doing it by ear, or manually with other tools.




From the website, it goes over the unit with some more detail.


And its not a BAD looker either.



But that BLUETOOTH Dongle.. JEEZ.. Its so ..."That's what your girlfriend says"



The control knob is not to shabby either. Just don't see the point if you have the Bluetooth module. Once you set your DSP, its almost set and forget most of the time.




Regardless, your going to need one of these for a clean install, and so it does not run into issues with the USB breaking or the dongle.



This one might work better for the layout of the unit with the RCA's not getting in the way.



Or do something Custom like Solder to the board, but it does not look like it is going to stick out more then some RCA cables.



I have been using these for years in cars, and just made my own to go over Cat6 cable or Firewire cables since they are shielded the max.



That way, you don't really run into fitment issues. Its one of the small reasons why I am more inclined to go with the Bare board MiniDSP options, and they do have a killer DSP for a good price.

Actually, so far, the MiniDSP is still the value and flexibility leader.



And the cool part is you can just hard wire it all, put it in a smaller kit box, or modify the one for $95 bucks, and call it a day.




Either way, you get a great DSP, and at a great price. I have not heard of to many Failures of MiniDSP units either. And the PRICE is out of this world affordable. Not bad!


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The remote is needed for folks like me. Factory integration.

2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T


Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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I'm almost out of space in my car. I got so many things in my dash. 2 phones, a Asus tablet chromebook, and another cheap tablet to run RealRTA. Still, I think the REAL dsp route is the way to go. It would help with my speaker setup. Surprising I was able to make it sound so good for what I got just running mostly modified stock stuff. THat Reminds me I need to post a system diagram.


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