300x1 @ 4 ohms with adjustable subsonic filter

I have a Phoenix gold sd600.1

Probably more than you need. Does 300x1 at 4

400x1 at 2ohms

600x1 at 1 ohm.

It's as big as a DVD. You can put it anywhere and efficient. Great amp. $120

 
I have a Phoenix gold sd600.1
Probably more than you need. Does 300x1 at 4

400x1 at 2ohms

600x1 at 1 ohm.

It's as big as a DVD. You can put it anywhere and efficient. Great amp. $120
Have you ever had it stable at 4 ohms? I can't see anything about its 4 ohm rating.

 
I knew that, but I was more looking for a 4 ohm watt reading, a little more research let me learn it is rated for 200 watts at 4 ohms, and that's less than I was looking for.

 
I'm looking for something I can run a alpine 8"D2 type r at 300 watts, with a subsonic filter, and if I think its to loud I can turn the sub down, if its not loud enough I can get a second sub, and run them at 2 ohms 300 watts each.

 
I'm looking for something I can run a alpine 8"D2 type r at 300 watts, with a subsonic filter, and if I think its to loud I can turn the sub down, if its not loud enough I can get a second sub, and run them at 2 ohms 300 watts each.
Its always better to have more power on tap than not having enough. there's also box rise and voltage drops to account for as well. Being wired at 4 ohms, your rise will be high up to the 6-8 ohm regions so your real power output will be less than 150 watts if you have a 300 at 4 ohms amp.. This should be a decent amp for you which should be pretty future proof as well when you want to add another sub. Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

If you havent bought the type R yet, I'd suggest you getting a soundqubed hds208 instead. D4, wire to 2 ohms and if you get another one, wire to 1 ohm.

 
Its always better to have more power on tap than not having enough. there's also box rise and voltage drops to account for as well. Being wired at 4 ohms, your rise will be high up to the 6-8 ohm regions so your real power output will be less than 150 watts if you have a 300 at 4 ohms amp.. This should be a decent amp for you which should be pretty future proof as well when you want to add another sub. Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

If you havent bought the type R yet, I'd suggest you getting a soundqubed hds208 instead. D4, wire to 2 ohms and if you get another one, wire to 1 ohm.
I know very little about sub's, but I'm planning on running mine from 40hz-100hz, and I wanted really tight bass, nothing boomy. Almost everything in a ported box sounded boomy to me. I'm not sure I even know what I want, but u read somewhere that running the sub in 4ohm in a small sealed box will help keep it tight, so that's why I chose that sub... I'm open to other ideas, but from what I know, that's a step in the wrong direction?

 
The 300 was based on metering it and I use it on my e8d2v4. If you want tight bass I would suggest the woofer. With this amp it is amazing. You're not going to win spl competitions but you will have amazing sound.

 
The 300 was based on metering it and I use it on my e8d2v4. If you want tight bass I would suggest the woofer. With this amp it is amazing.
I'll consider it, I need to get some more knowledge and opinions. I don't have an amp, sub, or box yet, so my options are pretty loose.

 
I know very little about sub's, but I'm planning on running mine from 40hz-100hz, and I wanted really tight bass, nothing boomy. Almost everything in a ported box sounded boomy to me. I'm not sure I even know what I want, but u read somewhere that running the sub in 4ohm in a small sealed box will help keep it tight, so that's why I chose that sub... I'm open to other ideas, but from what I know, that's a step in the wrong direction?
Note, Most premade ported boxes you can buy online are 100% garbage The boomy sound is from a poorly engineered and designed box. Along with bloated basslines in most of today's music.

4 ohms wont get you any punchier. If anything you'll be stressing the equipment more if you arent satisfied with the output and pushing the equipment beyond its means causing signal to clip and distort. You wont know when you hit the limit most of the times since you are new to this, clipping/distortion is not audible.

I'd say just get a nice sound quality oriented 10 or 12 for your case, dont go with an 8. These daytons are highly regarded sound quality woofers that have a nice tight sound signature and smooth bass and works fine in smaller enclosures. If you have the space, just go with a 12. A sub barely lifting a finger to provide output will last MUCH longer than a small sub working its @ss off all the time. These daytons will work well with that PPI 1000.1 amp.

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer

 
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