xfl vs cvr New models

[blazian87 10+ year member]

yeah thats stuck in my head now just might get 2 xfls. have you ever ran 2 subs with 1 chamber. i heard if one fails the other will but do it sacrifice sound

I run 4 subs in 1 chamber and it has not given me any problems with blown subs. That only happens if you send a dirty clipped signal to your subs and/or abuse the crap out of them. Using 1 chamber instead of 2 saves space and gives your subs more airspace. With your limited space, one chamber would benefit you.

 

[mastershake575]

Don't laugh at me but this is going in a 2000 mustang. i was looking at kicker because cvrs dont need much space in sealed enclosure. and for the xfls i can completely take the trunk and brackets off and make cutting adjustments to get the biggest possible box in there

was even checking out sa sundown. my budget is about 450 for subs. i have friend that build boxes

2 SA 12s would rattle the **** out of your car and power wise wouldn't require an aftermarket alternator (upgraded battery under the hood is recommended though).
Problem with multiple XFL's and 4xCVR's is in order to give the subs proper power your looking at $350-450 on an alternator, $200-250 on battery, $50-75 on big 3, $350-450 on amplifier.....ect (A Ford mustang is hardly worth spending $1.5K+ on for bass).

The reason why its not worth it is in reality dual 10s in a custom box on 1000 watts would have no problem shaking the hell out of a 4th gen mustang

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

There's no such thing as under powering a sub. Even a pair of XFLs or 4 CVRs would be fine on only 1000w. Disregard the post above this one. It's okay for a newbie to want to help but sometimes people get a little overzealous.

2 10s or 2 12s would work well. The SAs are a good choice. Also check out the SSA GCON. And I believe a pair of DD redline 700s may be in your budget as well if you have a local dealer. The XFLs are okay and will take a lot of power but they aren't really efficient.

Does your friend who builds boxes build them to spec with a program or does he eyeball them like most people do? An improperly designed enclosure is worse than a prefab.. and prefabs tend to be pretty terrible.

 

[mastershake575]

There's no such thing as under powering a sub. Even a pair of XFLs or 4 CVRs would be fine on only 1000w

There's nothing wrong with it but unless he specifies how far he's willing to take this (money/power wise) I wouldn't recommend spending money on subs that' he might not even be able to power half way (especially since kicker/AB aren't the most efficient subs out there). I'd rather run two TNT's with enough money left over to get an aftermarket battery than buy two XFL's if he does end up staying stock power (that's my point, spend money wisely unless he notes a full plan).

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Normally you want the sub to get close to mechanical efficiency with either an efficient enclosure or a lot of power on tap. Sure you can throw 1000 watts to a pair of xfls in a 5 cubic feet gross box in his trunk and they will make some sound. However, Will it sound impressive? FK no(to basshead standards), neither proper space nor enough power to fully utilize the sub's potential and you will feel that lack of bass when the sub hits vs a sub that reaches mechanical efficiency via power or efficient box.

Its not really a matter of underpowering as said before, its more like not getting the most out of your sub(potential wise)/money/time invested. If you really want the max out of those xfls, you'll either need to step down in size to get a really efficient box in or upgrade electricals and really drive them hard with clean power. At least 2k to 2.5k watts rms of power from a good reputable amp if wired to 1 ohm.

 

[tyronekndrck 10+ year member]

You'll want to do an 8" sonotube port with that space if you are going xfls, i'll have to have a few inches extending out too. You will barely have any cubic feet left if you do slot port. Sealed with XFL is not an option man.
Thought about doing a single beefy 15? What kind of power are you running?

looking into either a single 15 or 12 inch orion hcca now my mind is running crazy now

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

looking into either a single 15 or 12 inch orion hcca now my mind is running crazy now

Not Orion. Not anymore.

 

[psych0ticnemes1 5,000+ posts]

Normally you want the sub to get close to mechanical efficiency with either an efficient enclosure or a lot of power on tap. Sure you can throw 1000 watts to a pair of xfls in a 5 cubic feet gross box in his trunk and they will make some sound. However, Will it sound impressive? FK no(to basshead standards), neither proper space nor enough power to fully utilize the sub's potential and you will feel that lack of bass when the sub hits vs a sub that reaches mechanical efficiency via power or efficient box.
Its not really a matter of underpowering as said before, its more like not getting the most out of your sub(potential wise)/money/time invested. If you really want the max out of those xfls, you'll either need to step down in size to get a really efficient box in or upgrade electricals and really drive them hard with clean power. At least 2k to 2.5k watts rms of power from a good reputable amp if wired to 1 ohm.

There's something to be said for fully powering one sub vs. under powering two, or even under powering one. Though there's no harm in it, I've had better SPL results when I give a larger motor sub full power vs. under powering two larger motor subs.

Granted, you could buy larger motors subs now and upgrade power later if you know you're going to. Otherwise, I'd try to at least match the rms rating of the sub(s).

If it were me, I'd go with the Sundown SAs. I think they're perfect for what you're after.

Good luck.

 

[tyronekndrck 10+ year member]

Not Orion. Not anymore.

lol wha does that mean

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

lol wha does that mean

new stuff isnt what is used to be

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

looking into either a single 15 or 12 inch orion hcca now my mind is running crazy now

You sure you want to go past the 1.5k rms range and enter into a high output alternator + extra batteries + lots of 1/0 wire? Because thats what you will need if you want beefier subs.

 

[mastershake575]

lol wha does that mean

They use to be higher quality and there was alot less brands out there (less brands means you didn't have to try as hard to deliver a good product at a good price). Just to give you an example (for present day), soundqubed is considered the definition of average in terms of brand but if you made a thread saying "Soundqubed HDC4 vs Orion HCAA" there isn't a single person that would say get the HCAA

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I've never had any issues giving lower power to high RMS subs. As long as your BL to MMS ratio stays relatively similar there won't be a noticeable drop in efficiency. You're also less likely to encounter power compression at all.

I've heard Ethos on 750w each and tridents on 1000w each... no less impressive than anything smaller on that power. My DDZ's kick *** on low power.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I've never had any issues giving lower power to high RMS subs. As long as your BL to MMS ratio stays relatively similar there won't be a noticeable drop in efficiency. You're also less likely to encounter power compression at all.
I've heard Ethos on 750w each and tridents on 1000w each... no less impressive than anything smaller on that power. My DDZ's kick *** on low power.

thats if given the proper enclosure size. OP is stuck in a small trunk. Smaller boxes will indeed impact output and need more power to reach proper potential.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Also, what is your stock alternator size? That will determine how large of an amp you can support without needing to upgrade. I would recommend an AGM battery under the hood no matter what size you went with. A virgin lead AGM would be even more beneficial and last roughly twice as long.

Stock alternator size - 50 * 20 = the maximum amplifier size I would recommend (quality class D)