Wiring switch to power on and off HU?

budahbuddy803
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
Question:

How do you wire a two prong switch for powering a head unit? Is it as simple as I think? Split the power wire that runs from the ignition source to the head unit? It is the red cable on the Pioneer wiring harness that I am talking about, not the yellow, constant power.

I've wired switches for amps using the remote wire (2 prong) or power, ground, remote (3 prong w/light on switch).

Background:

My head unit, since it's gotten cooler, will freeze up when the car is started or shortly afterwards. You have to turn the car off, open the driver door, close the door, and then restart the car to get it to cycle the HU power. Sometimes it works the 2nd try, sometimes it takes numerous power cycles to get it to work. If its room temperature there are no problems. I've had the HU for about a year and never had any issues until recently. I live in SE GA so it doesn't really get all that cold. I looked online and there are a few complaints about this so I called Pioneer to see what the tech said. He said "It sounds like you have an internal component going bad. You have to ship it to Texas or S. Fl.

Rather than doing that right at the moment, I would prefer to bypass my frustration with a switch to cycle power as many times as needed until the unit works while driving.

 
Yea just split the wire like you think. From ACC to switch then to the head unit. Maybe try the ground also if that doesn't give you the results you want.

 
Yea just split the wire like you think. From ACC to switch then to the head unit. Maybe try the ground also if that doesn't give you the results you want.
Thanks man. I'll make sure to get a 10+amp switch since the fuse on the HU is 10amps. Nice idea on the ground. I'll tackle that this weekend.

 
Thanks man. I'll make sure to get a 10+amp switch since the fuse on the HU is 10amps. Nice idea on the ground. I'll tackle that this weekend.
Most normal switches don't go by amperage as it's a two point connection.

Unless you are getting the fancy lit up switches.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

 
Something I thought about today... because I have retained accessory power (RAP), if I kill the 12v ignition with the switch, will the unit still stay on for 10min, not at all, or never turn off?

I haven't been able to find how to disable the RAP if that is going to be an issue. I'm going to try the switch today and see, but if anyone has ever disabled the RAP, please let me know

 
Even though your car might be putting power through the RAP, you will have that cutoff switch, so your stereo wouldn't see it. But that goes back to my previous answer, you just might need to experiment.

 
Just an update. I unplugged the unit while I was working on the switch. It was probably unplugged for an hour because I was doing other things during this time as well. I wired up the switch to the ACC and the unit wouldn't turn on, regardless of switch position. I removed the switch and reconnected the ACC wires and the unit would not turn on. I have removed the head unit and will be re-installing all factory equipment. I do not have the time or patience to deal with this at the moment. I have a spare head unit, but like I said, I just don't have the time or patients. I plan on keeping my ID cx62 mids, X28 tweeters, and cables for my next car, but will buy new processing or head unit and amp when the time comes for that. EVERYTHING else I'm going to attempt to sell.

A lot of my stuff will be posted for sale this weekend.

Image Dynamics IDQ v3d4

Image Dynamics IDmax v3d2

Pioneer AVH-X3700BHS which I assume needs work

Alpine CDA-9853 (old but functions well in active mode)

Precision Power P900.5

Kenwood XR900-5

Microbypass for video in motion for all AVH units

1 cuft sealed enclosure

Backup camera

SiriusXM tuner and antenna

and most likely some other stuff.

Send me a PM if you're interested in any of this stuff.

 
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budahbuddy803

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