Wiring questions for BIG system going in my boat

[slorente]

Thanks for all the help so far. I am still unclear on the first 2 questions:

1. Is it ok to use y-adapters to split the 4 channels of pre-outs from my deck to 8 channels going to the 2 4-channels amps? Is there a better way to do this?

2. Is it ok to run all 6 pairs of "cabin" components to the 2nd KX650.4 if I run 4 of the pairs in series to 2 channels? It won't drop the ohm load to dangerous levels but will there be enough power to run those speakers?

Hey guys,
I'm new to the forum but not to car audio systems. I just traded in my Mastercraft boat for a new one that has MANY more factory speaker locations. I am going to upgrade the whole system and I have some questions. I also posted a Visio diagram of the system to make it easier to understand.

1. Is it ok to use y-adapters to split the 4 channels of pre-outs from my deck to 8 channels going to the 2 4-channels amps? Is there a better way to do this?

2. Is it ok to run all 6 pairs of "cabin" components to the 2nd KX650.4 if I run 4 of the pairs in series to 2 channels? It won't drop the ohm load to dangerous levels but will there be enough power to run those speakers?

3. Is it correct to wire the 2 Optima batteries in Parallel? Will that double the amperage of the batteries' output to the system?

4. Is 1/0 gauge large enough to wire the 2 Optima batteries together? It will only be an 18" run as the batteries are right next to each other.

4. Any other glaring issues with this system setup?

Thanks!

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the help! So instead of the y-adapters, I would just plug 2 channels into 1 of the 2 pairs of inputs on the amp? I'm not sure if Kicker is any different than other brands but I though that they actually have 2 seperate internal amps on their 4-channel amps (seperate networks).

According to the manual (available online from Kicker's website) you don't need a splitter.

Also, since you are will regularly be running the system with the engine off (I would assume) much as was recommended earlier add a backup battery on an isolator. Don't use a switch just because there is the chance you could forget to switch it. An isolator is automatic and will always leave you with a battery to start the engine.

 

[slorente]

According to the manual (available online from Kicker's website) you don't need a splitter.
Also, since you are will regularly be running the system with the engine off (I would assume) much as was recommended earlier add a backup battery on an isolator. Don't use a switch just because there is the chance you could forget to switch it. An isolator is automatic and will always leave you with a battery to start the engine.

Awesome, thanks! I just read that as well. That will reduce complexity (and cost) a little. It says that I won't be able to use the fader. Is that the fader on the amp or on the head unit? I want to make sure that the gain controls still work since on the cabin speakers, I will have more power going to the pair in the bow than to the cabin (since the cabin speakers are run in series).

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

ditch that POS clarion. it is absolutly garbage, i have the same one holding the shelf down in my closet. go with an aftermarket and get an EQ setup. that will give you all the pre-outs you need. i think in that boat with a single 12", your best bet would to be sealed under the drivers side dash firing into the sidewall. mine is actually setup like that, after 3 boxes trying to get it right. there is a false wall hiding all of it.

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

Also, since you are will regularly be running the system with the engine off (I would assume) much as was recommended earlier add a backup battery on an isolator. Don't use a switch just because there is the chance you could forget to switch it. An isolator is automatic and will always leave you with a battery to start the engine.

i already covered that. when running systems in boats with the motor off, generally you are on it really hard for extended periods of time. always use a switch and just leave it on one setting and never change it unless you are dead. the water is no place to be stranded. i have been there many times because of an isolator. if you drain the batteries that you were running on too far, then they dont have enough juice to click over to the good battery in reserve. as a rule of thumb, always leave the perko on the aux batteries then pull up, shut it off, and rock out, no worries and no switching. with two group 31's and like 2k+ watts i rarely kill them too far, but if i do, then i switch the batteries.

an isolator is the dumbest thing to go with in a boat, trust me from a guy that grew up on the water having a boat with systems his whole life.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

i already covered that. when running systems in boats with the motor off, generally you are on it really hard for extended periods of time. always use a switch and just leave it on one setting and never change it unless you are dead. the water is no place to be stranded. i have been there many times because of an isolator. if you drain the batteries that you were running on too far, then they dont have enough juice to click over to the good battery in reserve. as a rule of thumb, always leave the perko on the aux batteries then pull up, shut it off, and rock out, no worries and no switching. with two group 31's and like 2k+ watts i rarely kill them too far, but if i do, then i switch the batteries.
an isolator is the dumbest thing to go with in a boat, trust me from a guy that grew up on the water having a boat with systems his whole life.

Don't know what kind of "isolator" you were using then. A solid state isolator doesn't "click over" or require any voltage to work. It allows the alt on the engine to charge all the batteries when the engine is on but the stereo to only draw from its dedicated batteries, leaving the starting battery untouched when the engine is off. There are no moving parts and it is totally idiot proof.

As far as losing the fader thing, it's only the deck fader that you lose, the gains on the amps are still functional. The deck fader will allow you to change the relative volume of the cabin speakers and the tower speakers if wired as I suggested.

 

[bri487 5,000+ posts]

Don't know what kind of "isolator" you were using then. A solid state isolator doesn't "click over" or require any voltage to work. It allows the alt on the engine to charge all the batteries when the engine is on but the stereo to only draw from its dedicated batteries, leaving the starting battery untouched when the engine is off. There are no moving parts and it is totally idiot proof.
As far as losing the fader thing, it's only the deck fader that you lose, the gains on the amps are still functional. The deck fader will allow you to change the relative volume of the cabin speakers and the tower speakers if wired as I suggested.

trust me, dont go with an isolator.