Wiring - Does this work?

[sparg93 10+ year member]

My amp XR-1S:

Kenwood - XR-1S

My understanding is that it draws 60A max.

I'm running a fused distribution block that splits 1/0g into x2 4g wires and then to the amp - which fuse should I go with for the distribution block (amp rating)?

My alternator runs at 130amps, is 150A fuse appropriate for the 1/0g running into the distribution block?

Thanks!

Any other fuses that I should need?

I'm running a simple setup of x1 Amp to x2 10" subs.

Thanks!

On a side note, I am running a Big 3 w/the appropriate wiring and fuse.

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[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

You fuse for the wire, not the amp. You could fuse that 1/0 as high as 300A and be fine (provided it's true 1/0 OFC). But if you feel better fusing lower that's fine, it won't hurt anything provided you don't go too low. That's assuming we're talking about an inline fuse for the 1/0. The fuse for the distribution block should be 150A or less because it's fusing for 4 gauge wire.

Why do you think the amp will draw 60A max? Is that what the amps internal fusing adds up to? Also your running a single 1/0 to a distribution block, then a single 4 gauge from that to the amp?

 

[sparg93 10+ year member]

Yes, the 1/0 is from Knu Conceptz and I have an in-line fuse for that.

In the manual it listed a 60A draw as the max for the amp

I was going to run x1 1/0 into the dist block and then x1 4g into the amp from the block. In the future I'm adding a second amp so I'm leaving that output on the dist block empty at this time.

Is it possible the alternator can spike above 150A even though it's rated for 130A and pop the fuse? Essentially, should I order a large inline fuse?

For the dist block, I ordered 80A fuses.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

For this situation you can disregard the alternator's output. It has nothing to do with selecting your fuses. Select fuses for the max current draw of the items in the circuit. For the fused distribution block put in a 60a fuse. You're right about that. For the inline fuse on the main power line, put in whatever you want as long as it's at least 60a. Fuses are cheap and you can buy a new one when you have your second amp installed. When you add the second amp you need to add in the fuse size that amp requires to get your main fuse size on the 1/0 gauge wire. That's all there is to it.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

What vehicle?

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Yes, the 1/0 is from Knu Conceptz and I have an in-line fuse for that.
In the manual it listed a 60A draw as the max for the amp

I was going to run x1 1/0 into the dist block and then x1 4g into the amp from the block. In the future I'm adding a second amp so I'm leaving that output on the dist block empty at this time.

Is it possible the alternator can spike above 150A even though it's rated for 130A and pop the fuse? Essentially, should I order a large inline fuse?

For the dist block, I ordered 80A fuses.

Not likely. Fuses take more than a spike to blow anyway, they can allow instantaneous currents that are much higher than there rating as long as it's for very short periods of time. If you already have the 150A fuse for the 1/0 that will be fine. If you wanted to go bigger, you could.

 

[sparg93 10+ year member]

Thank you all for the advice.

The inline fuse that is just for the Big 3 - should I go bigger then 150A? (it makes sense the 150A on the 1/0g feeding the distribution block is enough).

I purchased x2 80A fuses for the distribution block - should I go lower so the distribution block is closer to the max draw on the amp? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to have 80A instead of 60A

Apologies for all the simple questions, this is my first stereo install (I'm having someone help me on install day who has done this before).