Wiring 4 jl subs

Gaffney982
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I just purchased a Memphis 16-ST1000D from a friend and I'm looking to power 4 12" subs. 2 are JL W6s(older style) and 2 JL W0s. I have a 4 subwoofer box with seperate chambers for each sub and I want to know how to wire them so that I get the full 1100rms from the amp.

 
You got the specs for the amp and subs?
I just dont feel like looking them up.
The 16-ST1000D is a single-channel, class D subwoofer amp featuring line-level outputs, an 18 dB-per-octave lowpass crossover that's continuously variable from 250 Hz to 50 Hz, and a defeatable subsonic filter that's continuously variable from 20 Hz to 50 Hz. Power ratings for this amp are listed as 300 watts into 4 ohms, 600 watts into 2 ohms, and 1100 watts into 1 Ohm.

Performance

If Elvis's Caddy had a subwoofer, an amp from Memphis Car Audio would almost be expected. Nashville was never the King's first choice, and nobody could take an amp from Pigeon Forge seriously. Like most class D amps, the 16-ST1000D excels at delivering lots of power into low impedance loads. We measured 791 W into 2 ohms and 997 W into 1 ohm with a 14-volt supply. We were able to confirm the 1100-watt rating into 1 ohm, although it occurs at a slightly higher THD+N percentage of 1.1%. As you can see in the chart, with a 10.5-volt supply, distortion rises rapidly above about 250 watts, although the amp doesn't begin to hard clip until about 700 watts. However, this won't be a problem unless you spend a fair amount of time thumping at the car wash or in a competition lane. Efficiency is a large consideration when you're dealing with an amplifier in this power range, and the 16-ST1000D's 71% at 1/3 max power is in the thick of the class D efficiency race. Fit and finish on this piece is also quite good, all of the controls and connections feel beefy and positive and the overall package looks really slick.

Installation

The 16-ST1000D is quite small considering its prodigious output. It measures 16.5- x 6.5- x 2-inches, just about small enough to fit anywhere. The amp's heatsink is also well designed. It sports something that's becoming an increasing rarity in the car audio world these days, an absolute slew of fins. The laws of physics that include thermal-dynamics say surface area rules the day if you intend to dissipate heat, but fins are still disappearing at an incredible rate. Maybe they just don't look cool enough for the marketing folks. From an installation standpoint, about the only gripe we can offer is for the fuse access. It's through the bottom panel, necessitating the amps removal to replace a fuse. However, the amp does provide a 'Fuse Fault' light that indicates blown or missing fuses. In addition, the two 40-amp fuses supplied with this amp proved to be quite resilient, passing well over 100 amps of short bursts several times without popping.

Connections & Adjustments

Connections to the 16-ST1000D include RCA inputs and outputs, wired remote connector, and beefy captive-style terminal blocks for all power and speaker connections. The manual recommends 4-gauge or larger for power and ground connections, although 4-gauge seems to be about the maximum amount of copper that can be crammed into the terminal block. There was no recommendation for speaker wire size, but the connectors accept up to 8-gauge. Adjustments to the 16-ST1000D include input sensitivity (also controllable via the wired remote), lowpass crossover cutoff frequency adjustment, subsonic filter cutoff frequency adjustment, and subsonic filter disable.

SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE MEMPHIS 16-ST1000D:

All measurements are at 14 volts:

Frequency Response +0 dB, -.9 dB

L/R channel error max 20 Hz to 20 kHz: N/A

Signal-to-Noise Ratio?: -79 dB

Distortion at Rated Output at 60 Hz: .4% @ 300 watts into 4 Ohms; .5% @ 500 watts into 2 Ohms; 1.1% @ 1100 watts into 1 ohm

Output Power? 791 watts at 14 volts; 643 watts at 12.8 volts; 231 watts at 10.5 volts; 425 watts @

Output Power? 997 watts at 14 volts; 886 watts @ 12.8 volts; 246 watts @ 10.5 volts; 688 watts @ ***

Output Power? 846 watts

Crosstalk at rated output, 20 Hz to 20 kHz:

Damping Factor at 100 Hz? 25

Voltage for Rated Output? 182 mV to 4.5 volts

Idle Current Draw? 1.7 amps

Current Draw @ 1/3 Maximum Power? 33.2 amps at 332 watts

Efficiency at 1/3 Maximum Power? 71%

Power-Up Noise? 51.3 dB SPL

Power Down Noise? 51.1 dB SPL

*** Output Power at onset of clipping.

SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE 12" JL W6:

Nominal Diameter: 12 inches (300 mm)

Continuous Power Handling: 300 Watts

Voice Coil: 2.5" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former

Available Configurations: Dual 6 ohm

Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.44" (11.1 mm)

Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.75-1.75 cu.ft. (21.0-49.5 liters)

Ported Enclosure Range: 1.50-2.50 cu.ft. (42.5-71.0 liters)

VRC™ Technology: NO

SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE 12" JLW0:

Nominal Diameter: 12 inches (300 mm)

Continuous Power Handling: 125 Watts

Voice Coil: 1.38" diameter, 6-layer, Kapton former

Available Configurations: 4 ohm or 8 ohm (Single Voice Coil)

Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.34" (8.6 mm)

Sealed Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.75 cu.ft. (28.3-49.5 liters)

Ported Enclosure Range: 1.75-2.75 cu.ft. (49.5-78.0 liters)

VRC™ Technology: YES

 
I would just run the 12w6 in a ported box built to specs and run the amp at a 1ohm load and let them pound. We need the coil config of your subs to help. pretty sure the 12w0's are svc 4ohm. which means single voice coil at able to handle 125rms at 4ohms.

 
i wouldnt run the w6's with the w0's. if you insist, i would reccomend that the box has a seperate chamber for the w0's because if they were in the same box, the w6's will kick the hell out of the w0's.

 
yes thats what I was saying I think the w6's alone will sound louder along with better....cancellation is 1 factor the w0 cant keep up along with added power by only running the w6 pair....more power gets louder.

 
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