wires/fuses/batteries/alternator for 2000Watts RMS of audio.

[RSDXzec 10+ year member]

I'll be setting up the audio system in my mates car in a couple of weeks and I'm unsure on the wires I'm going to need for a system this powerful. My system only draws 350watts rms so it's a fair step up.

On 2000w rms I think i'm going to need 2ga wire, but i'd like to confirm this. I'd also need to know what fuse i'll need for it and how much alternator current output i'd need to deliver a good 2000wrms for the audio. So I have an idea what kind of alternator is necessary when upgrading it.

I'm assuming i'll need two batteries, or would i need 3?

With 1000w rms going to each sub what kind of speaker wire do i need for these?

Cheers.

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[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Depends on how big your factory alt is, as far as batteries 2 strong agm batteries should be fine and 2g is perfect I would suggest 1/0 for shitz and giggles (ofc) anything over 14g will be fine for the woofers although I still suggest using 8g power wire /speaker wire for dey woofers.

 

[RSDXzec 10+ year member]

Depends on how big your factory alt is, as far as batteries 2 strong agm batteries should be fine and 2g is perfect I would suggest 1/0 for shitz and giggles (ofc) anything over 14g will be fine for the woofers although I still suggest using 8g power wire /speaker wire for dey woofers.

the stock alternator is only 60amps, so i'll be setting the gains low (and also a steady hand on the volume knob) to only about 800w rms until the alternator is upgraded. Which is why I'm asking what kind of alt i'll need.

Well if 2g wire works I don't see much point in getting 1g lol. 8g on speakers is fairly thick, i think i might go a bit higher than 14g but not all the way up to 8.

Also, you got any idea what fuse i'd need for the upgraded alt?

Cheers.

 

[Volvowith18psi 10+ year member]

Just food for thought:

1500RMS is around 100-150amp max current draw. Guesstimate 200ish amps DRAW for 2k RMS. Plus, what the car itself needs...

60amp ALT will NOT even begin to cut it with that kinda draw. An extra battery in the back will just band-aid the problem IMO.

I would guess, if your going HO ALT, anything around 250 or above will be enough. You fuse the wire, not the alt. Look up your wire size, see its max current rating, and fuse accordingly. Or you can fuse down, but never exceed the wires capability or bad things happen. (So Ive heard)

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

i used to run an aq 2200 on stock alt on a 98 accord.

Big 3 in 0/2

Power in 0/1

Deka intimidator battery in front and one in back.

My voltage stayed comfortably in the 13s when bumping

 

[RSDXzec 10+ year member]

So far from this thread i've gathered, that bare minimum i'd need:

200amp alternator

2G power wire

14G speaker wire

and based on this:

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies

2G wire can take up to 181 amps, so I guess a 170amp fuse would do?

Just food for thought:
1500RMS is around 100-150amp max current draw. Guesstimate 200ish amps DRAW for 2k RMS. Plus, what the car itself needs...

60amp ALT will NOT even begin to cut it with that kinda draw. An extra battery in the back will just band-aid the problem IMO.

I would guess, if your going HO ALT, anything around 250 or above will be enough. You fuse the wire, not the alt. Look up your wire size, see its max current rating, and fuse accordingly. Or you can fuse down, but never exceed the wires capability or bad things happen. (So Ive heard)

thanks for the info, I was only planning to add an extra battery if I put a HO alt in there. Also I do know where the fuse goes .

i used to run an aq 2200 on stock alt on a 98 accord.
Big 3 in 0/2

Power in 0/1

Deka intimidator battery in front and one in back.

My voltage stayed comfortably in the 13s when bumping

nice, how much power were you actually drawing from it? at what impedance? I'm guessing stock alt is about 80amps or so?

Cheers.