Will this design work ?

95Prober
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
hi guys. my brother will run (4) 10" subs in a hatchback and we are in the process of building a couple of designs. one is a sealed. now, before , he had only 2 facing the rear taillights and they sounded great! so we want to kinda leave those in that position. since we cant fit 4 across so all 4 can face the rear, we were thinking, instead of facing ALL 4 up towards the rear hatch glass, could we just leave 2 facing the rear, as in the past, and then put the other 2 facing the front (back seats) ????

then when you either open the rear hatch OR fold down the rear seats, you'll have a glimpse of 2 subs . the design would just seem to be a big rectangle with all of the subs in their own chambers inside the box. on top, the amps could be placed, since it will just be a flat carpeted one-soild piece top. i know many people will say , fire all 4 straight up, but how about this way??

thx

 
Negative buddy. Facing them to the rear of the vehicle and towards the front will cause hella cancelation. You would be better off 2 to the rear and 2 towards the hatch glass.

1. but if they're all in their EACH sealed chambers, will that STILL cause cancellation??

2. also, i heard that facing 2 towards the rear, and 2 stright up towards the glass, which would be in a 90 degree angle is not good as well??

 
1. but if they're all in their EACH sealed chambers, will that STILL cause cancellation??
Yes. The cancellation will occure outside of the box...

2. also, i heard that facing 2 towards the rear, and 2 stright up towards the glass, which would be in a 90 degree angle is not good as well??
True. But it is a lesser evil. You optimal option would be facing the same direction in a hatch.

If it is immposible to do so, just install it the original planned way. As long as this is just a daily beater it wont matter. Most people can't tell when there is any cancellation or bad imaging...

 
Yes. The cancellation will occure outside of the box...


True. But it is a lesser evil. You optimal option would be facing the same direction in a hatch.

If it is immposible to do so, just install it the original planned way. As long as this is just a daily beater it wont matter. Most people can't tell when there is any cancellation or bad imaging...
Dosent that have to do with Phase? you would need to adjust the phase for a pair of the subs, either the ones facing the front or back so theres no cancelation..... so you would need at least two amps (each with seperate phase, or one amp and a phase module of some sort).... you could wire them out of phase, but that could make it worse since you dont know what the phase degree the cancelation would occure.... also, perhaps the delay of the Back vs the Front might cause that too, and you could need to adjust a pair of subs to have a 1 ms delay or less so the sound reaches you're ears at the same time...

i could be totally wrong, but i'm somewhat certain its either phase or delay that could fix that problem anyways....

 
Dosent that have to do with Phase? you would need to adjust the phase for a pair of the subs, either the ones facing the front or back so theres no cancelation..... so you would need at least two amps (each with seperate phase, or one amp and a phase module of some sort).... you could wire them out of phase, but that could make it worse since you dont know what the phase degree the cancelation would occure.... also, perhaps the delay of the Back vs the Front might cause that too, and you could need to adjust a pair of subs to have a 1 ms delay or less so the sound reaches you're ears at the same time...

i could be totally wrong, but i'm somewhat certain its either phase or delay that could fix that problem anyways....
well, each PAIR, the front and rear pair, will be hooked up to a seperate amp. 2 subs for 1 amp , if that helps things out at all.

how can i adjust this phase, if that will help me?

any more tips guys? thx

 
perhaps you can do a set up such as this:

schmoog7rq.png


 
face them all at the rear.....
well we got around 14" -15" on the height, and on the width at the very rear facing the taillights, we got 34". i was thinking about that design, but not sure if i can get them all to fit like that. plus the cuts would be harder for us to make with the angles and such

 
what about an angled box (i know the angles would be hard, but there won't be as many as there were in the above angled design) like 15" H in the back, 34"W, and the maximum depth you could fit...........

 
what about an angled box (i know the angles would be hard, but there won't be as many as there were in the above angled design) like 15" H in the back, 34"W, and the maximum depth you could fit...........
sorry, but what would an angled box look like? i mean never seen one before i think. u mean angle the whole top piece so the box looks like a triangle?? sorry if im wrong

 
Dosent that have to do with Phase? you would need to adjust the phase for a pair of the subs, either the ones facing the front or back so theres no cancelation..... so you would need at least two amps (each with seperate phase, or one amp and a phase module of some sort).... you could wire them out of phase, but that could make it worse since you dont know what the phase degree the cancelation would occure.... also, perhaps the delay of the Back vs the Front might cause that too, and you could need to adjust a pair of subs to have a 1 ms delay or less so the sound reaches you're ears at the same time...

i could be totally wrong, but i'm somewhat certain its either phase or delay that could fix that problem anyways....
I think trying to correct the phase and time delay to match up the signal would be a little overboard. If they were in a box with a shared chamber yes just switching the phase could possibly help. But IMO it is just to much of a hassel.

A slanted box is like a wedge box. Add a triangle on to a square. You're going to have to see what fits personally. Measuring what will work and what will not. All in all I advise not to do it as the original planned, Unless it is the only option.

 
well we got around 14" -15" on the height, and on the width at the very rear facing the taillights, we got 34". i was thinking about that design, but not sure if i can get them all to fit like that. plus the cuts would be harder for us to make with the angles and such
fiberglass it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
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95Prober

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