Will one of these work or am i just S.O.L... 2 RE Audio MXV2D1 12s in a Lexus trunk

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Jadester

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Ok so Ive been having hell trying to figure how to get this box to fix in the trunk of my Lexus

Car 1993 Lexus SC400

Subs RE Audio MX V2 12s

Amp DD M2a

A little info on the car... The trunk is basically completely sealed from the cabin. To open up some air flow I plan on removing the factory 8" subwoofer from the center of the rear deck... To further aid in air flow into the cabin I can also remove the two 6.5" speakers from the rear deck as well as two little panels about 4" x 4" that just pop right out... However I plan on just starting with the factory sub and going from there.

I've been getting conflicting specs from RE Audio about the recommended ported enclosure specs... The Website calls for 2.0 cubic feet for each sub. Now I've called REs tech support and they are saying that based on new testing the new recommended ported enclosure is 3.75 cu ft per sub with a 6" aero port... Like WTF? that's huge difference!

So the best that I can come up with is kinda in the middle 5.5 cu ft before displacement. However to get anywhere near that big I have to build into the spear tire well "oh well, could be worse" But because of the size of the subs "depth 10 1/4" I am VERY LIMITED on where i can actually place the port.

For the port I'm thinking of a 8" flared aero port @ 16.4" for a tuning of 35hz.... Correct if I'm wrong but if they are calling one 6" port that's 28.26 inches of port area... Using a single 8" is 50.24 inches of port area and 9.63 port area per cu ft... Should be ok???

So I'm thinking of using 5.5 cu ft gross... After port and woofer displacement puts it at 4.75 with a single 8" flared aero port

It looks like the only place I can place the port is dead in the middle on top facing up... How bad is this going to hurt me??? Now I do have an option on the placement of the subs. I can either do Subs up and Port up or Subs front or rear " With? you guessed it" port up...

So which is better Sub up / port up, Sub rear / Port up or Sub froward / Port up???

Subs front or back / Port up... sorry for bad drawing



Subs up / Port up... sorry for the bad drawing



Rear Deck



Rear Seat



Trunk



Trunk Guts... Yes that is FU KING gas tank in the trunk



 
Yea unfortunately it seems like it's not gonna work with the trunk space you have.. besides.. why have the port going up into the cabin and have the subs hitting inside the trunk? I think you'll come across phase issues.. Worst of all, gas tank is in the way of everything too..

I think RE audio changed it from 2.0 to 3.75 because they realized after testing how inefficient it is in such a small enclosure. It needs more space and more port. Build a box for the rear seats! you will be louder for sure. Face subs up and port forward or face subs forward and port forward. Have a 8" flared aeroport right in the middle and you'll be set man.

Rule of thumb for aeroport: I was told that whatever size aeroport you use, you need atleast that many inches between the back wall of the enclosure to work effectively. So in your case, 8" aeroport would need atleast 8" between the inside port and the wall. Would probably have the port sticking out of the enclosure by quite a bit.

 
Yea unfortunately it seems like it's not gonna work with the trunk space you have.. besides.. why have the port going up into the cabin and have the subs hitting inside the trunk? I think you'll come across phase issues.. Worst of all, gas tank is in the way of everything too..
I think RE audio changed it from 2.0 to 3.75 because they realized after testing how inefficient it is in such a small enclosure. It needs more space and more port. Build a box for the rear seats! you will be louder for sure. Face subs up and port forward or face subs forward and port forward. Have a 8" flared aeroport right in the middle and you'll be set man.

Rule of thumb for aeroport: I was told that whatever size aeroport you use, you need atleast that many inches between the back wall of the enclosure to work effectively. So in your case, 8" aeroport would need atleast 8" between the inside port and the wall. Would probably have the port sticking out of the enclosure by quite a bit.
Your pm's are full man.

 
I wasn't going to be running the port though the rear deck... Port was going to internal .. Basically turning the trunk into a 6th order

 
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Yea unfortunately it seems like it's not gonna work with the trunk space you have.. besides.. why have the port going up into the cabin and have the subs hitting inside the trunk? I think you'll come across phase issues.. Worst of all, gas tank is in the way of everything too..
I think RE audio changed it from 2.0 to 3.75 because they realized after testing how inefficient it is in such a small enclosure. It needs more space and more port. Build a box for the rear seats! you will be louder for sure. Face subs up and port forward or face subs forward and port forward. Have a 8" flared aeroport right in the middle and you'll be set man.

Rule of thumb for aeroport: I was told that whatever size aeroport you use, you need atleast that many inches between the back wall of the enclosure to work effectively. So in your case, 8" aeroport would need atleast 8" between the inside port and the wall. Would probably have the port sticking out of the enclosure by quite a bit.
An 8" aero port only need to be 16.4" to tune to 35hz... If I run it port up it will be flush with the top of the box with the port fully internal leading into the Spare tire well where it will have at least 8" from the bottom of the box

 
An 8" aero port only need to be 16.4" to tune to 35hz... If I run it port up it will be flush with the top of the box with the port fully internal leading into the Spare tire well where it will have at least 8" from the bottom of the box
from the diagram I see above, I can't see how you can fit 16.4" AND 8" room internally. How many inches is the height spare tire well? I think sub up and port up would be best since you wanna technically make it a 6th order in your trunk. I just don't see the port working without it being outside alittle bit.

 
I do have another option... I could run 2 6" aero ports going to the rear deck and face the Subs forward... Remove the factory subwoofer and enlarge the hole for the air / sound from the Subs cone to get though into the cabin. Then remove the factory 6.5s for the aero ports... Then basically almost everything is going into the rear window which is angled like a hatchback...

 
I do have another option... I could run 2 6" aero ports going to the rear deck and face the Subs forward... Remove the factory subwoofer and enlarge the hole for the air / sound from the Subs cone to get though into the cabin. Then remove the factory 6.5s for the aero ports... Then basically almost everything is going into the rear window which is angled like a hatchback...
I don't think it's a very good idea to face subs forward in the trunk. I feel like the bass is gonna get trapped inside the trunk even if you have a hole for the air / sound to come out of. If anything it would be quieter.. I think having everything face rear would work. Exactly how much depth do you have to work with?

Would you be against doing an infinite baffle setup?

Honestly, your best choice is to build a box for the rear seats and call it a day. It would save you so much hassle and be so much louder. That way, you can try to make a bigger box that RE recommended. Do you have people use your rear seats often? It's so crowded back there, I would hate to sit in there for a long period of time..

 
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Jadester

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