will my stock alt hold up?

that amp( Lanzar Opti 2000D) is not pushing anywhere near 1600watts@1ohm, (not a lanzar)as you stated,(If the amp was 100% efficient it would be drawing (1*1600)/14.4=111 amps.) well amps are not that efficient and that figure would be a stable 14.4 with a perfect sine wave, that is not a musical signal
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif Opti's do rated power. Some have been benched well over rated.

 
you said it ( benched). see, what alot of companies do is crank the voltage up on a dummy load and record the output ( usually right about the time the amp fries)
Independent testing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
Ok. Your right. I was saying IF it was 100% efficient, which it obviously isnt... lets say it's overrated(which it isnt), and it actually only push's 1400 watts@1 ohm, and actually take into effect a conservative efficiency of 80%. 1400/14.4=97 amps * 1.2 = 117 amps.

And your right, that is a stable 14.4 volts, again which it obviously isn't. Since it isn't, it would be drawing more amps not less.

 
Wow. I'm done arguing, slick I don't think you have any idea as to what your talking about.

Back to what it was supposed to be about, emd, I would say do it in steps. Hook it all up, if you have massive drops, from 14.4 to 12 or 11. Then do big 3, repeat. Still the same? New batt. and maybe one in rear. If your still having drops, then a new alt. would be the solution. It's different for every car, my taurus had big drops with only 400 watts, but it was due to frayed and old wiring. Big 3 = wooo!

 
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