How much money are you willing to spend?
i am not too sure what you are trying to achieve. You need to low pass the subs so they only play say 80hz and down or 63hz. The midbass drivers to play 80 or 100hz and up to 250hz if its midbass applications. Why not try some CDT M6 or ED eu-700 or some 8in drivers like the Dayton Ref 8in or the Tang Bang 6.5 subwoofer.
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am a mod.
price is a definite problem with midbass.
you could look at the critical mass MB82. thats what im getting soon //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
ps, a speaker playing from 80hz to 250hz is retarded. at least get some active crossover and a competant speaker that will play from like 80hz to like 1000hz.
just imo.
you could look at the critical mass MB82. thats what im getting soon //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
ps, a speaker playing from 80hz to 250hz is retarded. at least get some active crossover and a competant speaker that will play from like 80hz to like 1000hz.
just imo.
Louisiana_CRX
5,000+ posts
dem shoes......
I have a set of DD 6.5LT's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif and a set of DD 6.5mb's
Not to piss you off, but saying something is retarted provides no concrete reason to not do something. You need to give a logical, complete arguement.
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because it is an inefficient use of time and money. the only logical low frequency band speaker in my opinion is a subwoofer. its a waste of time to install a speaker that is meant for low end midrange and midbass and restrict its bandwidth to a few hundred frequencies when it is capable of so much more.
in my opinion simplicity is a good place to start. i cant justify the time and money spent on this application.
in my opinion simplicity is a good place to start. i cant justify the time and money spent on this application.
I understand what your saying, but I do think, in some applications, such a setup is necessary. It proved hard to find a midbass driver that works well in a 2 way setup with horns. Many people opt to go 3 way for this reason and you'll find that in most cases, the midbass woofers are only playing a few hundred hertz.
asdf
Just because the driver is capable of playing higher in a given application doesn't mean it's wise to do so, subs can play MUCH higher than 80hz with lots of authority, however we dont' do it, for obvious reasons. Dedicated midbases have a similar set of rules. Midbass from 80-250 has 1 key advantage, being that you don't have to aim the drivers. If your doing a door mounted midbass, like most people, if you only play the driver from 80-300 or so, you'll have no negative effects on your tonality. The driver can be any angle with 60 degrees of leeway, give or take a bit and sound just the same! Go much higher and the driver's on axis and off axis responce will begin to deviate from one another. In terms of the "sweet spot" for a door mounted midbass driver, 8-250 is pretty close. If you go much higher than that, intesity as well as pathlengths will ditate imaging, not just the pathlengths. On axis response deviation sets in, and well, you really just need to put them in the kicks to get the most of them. (usually vented kicks, since most mids dont' like tiny airspaces)
Secondly, in a horn install, the other drivers need all the help they can get. Asking a driver to play 80hz all the way up until it mates with a horn, at 1.2k or so, is almost defeating the purpose of the horns. Lower midrange frequencies will probably end up being a bit off, as I talked about earlier. Switching phase on the midranges can help this, but since your in a 2 way config, your usually sacrificing midbass output. These types of tradeoffs are bad enough in a regular install, with horns, your really limiting your dynamics. Your asking a traditional driver to play a large range and keep up with a driver 20db more effecient than it is, not an easy task. Most midbasses even playing the small 80-250hz range will run out of gas before the horn does! To really get the most out of the horns, you almost need to do a 3 way, IMO, but that's me. I'd rather not sacrifice imaging, tonality or overall output, which horns can allow you to do, assuming the other convential drivers don't limit you. To summarize, horns in a 3-way FTMFW!
- Thread Starter
- #11
okay, let me rephrase, I was about to get off of work last night, and my question was not too undrstandable.
Im wanting to go full active
I want my subs playing from around 55-60 down
I want a beefy midbass to play from 60 - at least 250, possibly up to 1000, it depoends on what mid range I go with
room, is not a problem, I have plenty
money, well, consider it a non issue, but dont suggest midbasses that are $1000 for a set
Im wanting to go full active
I want my subs playing from around 55-60 down
I want a beefy midbass to play from 60 - at least 250, possibly up to 1000, it depoends on what mid range I go with
room, is not a problem, I have plenty
money, well, consider it a non issue, but dont suggest midbasses that are $1000 for a set
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