Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="T3mpest" data-source="post: 2506360" data-attributes="member: 560148">Just because the driver is capable of playing higher in a given application doesn&#039;t mean it&#039;s wise to do so, subs can play MUCH higher than 80hz with lots of authority, however we dont&#039; do it, for obvious reasons.&nbsp; Dedicated midbases have a similar set of rules.&nbsp; Midbass from 80-250 has 1 key advantage, being that you don&#039;t have to aim the drivers.&nbsp; If your doing a door mounted midbass, like most people, if you only play the driver from 80-300 or so, you&#039;ll have no negative effects on your tonality.&nbsp; The driver can be any angle with 60 degrees of leeway, give or take a bit and sound just the same!&nbsp; Go much higher and the driver&#039;s on axis and off axis responce will begin to deviate from one another.&nbsp; &nbsp; In terms of the &quot;sweet spot&quot; for a door mounted midbass driver, 8-250 is pretty close.&nbsp; If you go much higher than that, intesity as well as pathlengths will ditate imaging, not just the pathlengths.&nbsp; On axis response deviation sets in, and well, you really just need to put them in the kicks to get the most of them.&nbsp; (usually vented kicks, since most mids dont&#039; like tiny airspaces)Secondly, in a horn install, the other drivers need all the help they can get.&nbsp; Asking a driver to play 80hz all the way up until it mates with a horn, at 1.2k or so, is almost defeating the purpose of the horns.&nbsp; Lower midrange frequencies will probably end up being a bit off, as I talked about earlier.&nbsp; Switching phase on the midranges can help this, but since your in a 2 way config, your usually sacrificing midbass output.&nbsp; These types of tradeoffs are bad enough in a regular install, with horns, your really limiting your dynamics.&nbsp; Your asking a traditional driver to play a large range and keep up with a driver 20db more effecient than it is, not an easy task.&nbsp; Most midbasses even playing the small 80-250hz range will run out of gas before the horn does!&nbsp; To really get the most out of the horns, you almost need to do a 3 way, IMO, but that&#039;s me.&nbsp; I&#039;d rather not sacrifice imaging, tonality or overall output, which horns can allow you to do, assuming the other convential drivers don&#039;t limit you.&nbsp; To summarize, horns in a 3-way FTMFW!</blockquote>

[QUOTE="T3mpest, post: 2506360, member: 560148"] Just because the driver is capable of playing higher in a given application doesn't mean it's wise to do so, subs can play MUCH higher than 80hz with lots of authority, however we dont' do it, for obvious reasons. Dedicated midbases have a similar set of rules. Midbass from 80-250 has 1 key advantage, being that you don't have to aim the drivers. If your doing a door mounted midbass, like most people, if you only play the driver from 80-300 or so, you'll have no negative effects on your tonality. The driver can be any angle with 60 degrees of leeway, give or take a bit and sound just the same! Go much higher and the driver's on axis and off axis responce will begin to deviate from one another. In terms of the "sweet spot" for a door mounted midbass driver, 8-250 is pretty close. If you go much higher than that, intesity as well as pathlengths will ditate imaging, not just the pathlengths. On axis response deviation sets in, and well, you really just need to put them in the kicks to get the most of them. (usually vented kicks, since most mids dont' like tiny airspaces) Secondly, in a horn install, the other drivers need all the help they can get. Asking a driver to play 80hz all the way up until it mates with a horn, at 1.2k or so, is almost defeating the purpose of the horns. Lower midrange frequencies will probably end up being a bit off, as I talked about earlier. Switching phase on the midranges can help this, but since your in a 2 way config, your usually sacrificing midbass output. These types of tradeoffs are bad enough in a regular install, with horns, your really limiting your dynamics. Your asking a traditional driver to play a large range and keep up with a driver 20db more effecient than it is, not an easy task. Most midbasses even playing the small 80-250hz range will run out of gas before the horn does! To really get the most out of the horns, you almost need to do a 3 way, IMO, but that's me. I'd rather not sacrifice imaging, tonality or overall output, which horns can allow you to do, assuming the other convential drivers don't limit you. To summarize, horns in a 3-way FTMFW! [/QUOTE]

Verification