Why the hell are the tweeters so bright?

did you ever answer what vehicle or how they are mounted? if they are on or off axis? I know with my id xs28s on axis they were hella bright (not the same tweeters you have) but now that they are off axis and properly tuned they sound beautiful.
My component crossovers say they have +3 0 and -3 but i can't tell which one it's on, and can't figure out a way to change it. brb searching manual.
there's your problem
RTFM
i've been trying to help you but you don't seem to be answering my questions. if all else fails and doing the basic stuff dont' work i take it to the next level and go straight to Eric at ID. Now Answer my QUESTIONS!

 
i've been trying to help you but you don't seem to be answering my questions. If all else fails and doing the basic stuff dont' work i take it to the next level and go straight to eric at id. Now answer my questions!
rtfm

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i have similiar problems with my HSK165.4s with stock mounting locations, the tweeter is pretty high and close to me in the door so i think it's more placement rather than faulty equipment. With a parametric HU and no external EQ, i dont have much room for adjustment. They also lack alot of mid-range detail. I ended up keeping the EQ flat and the crossovers set on -2db. I still wish for more mid-range but when i set the cross to 0db and reduce the top end, it just sounds unnatural to me. Adding more midbass in the EQ also sounds weird, that's why i'm living with just flat and -2. They're still a tad bright on certain songs, especially trance but i'll just have to learn to live with that.

 
well if you didn' cut or boost the value you have selected is irrelevant, your not doing anything too it lol. Try cutting each one and see which one is the worst offender. You have 5 different EQ points to pick from all in the tweet range, use it. Also the adjustment switch is usually on the front face of the crossover itself.

 
x2 on the aiming of the tweets. if they are positioned at your head they will be stupid bright.
this is not the problem! having tweets on axis is a good thing, never a bad. there is an issue with the amount of power the tweets are getting and exactly what signal they are getting.

 
this is not the problem! having tweets on axis is a good thing, never a bad. there is an issue with the amount of power the tweets are getting and exactly what signal they are getting.
yeah.

he's too high on bass. Home audio, cabinets, bookshelves, and monitors must be stupid bright with tweets on axis.

 
Keep in mind that tweets do not need very much power at all to get "loud", also you said you had it at 4000hz, if you are boosting or cutting at 4000hz the super tinny crazy loud part will be higher than that and you are doing nothing to fix that. it sounds to me like you are a little in over your head with the amount of adjustment and additional components you have at your disposal. Go back to basics. no boosting or cutting, simply one chanel of power going into your passive everything set flat, no additional caps/resistors... speaker wire going to your tweets and mids from the passive crossover that is set all flat. make sure you head unit is set flat, and that there is no processing at the head unit, the loud button is off. make sure the amp is not processing the signal any, other than low pass to protect the mids. Start with your head unit set to 50% and the gain of the amp at 0, then advance the gain to the point where the tweet is comfortable to the ear and fairly loud. At this point is it over powering the mid? if so use the cut feature of the passive and cut it 3db. is it still over powering the mid?... I can go on from here if you still have issues. but unless you have the tweet right at the top of the A pillar next to the roof and 18" from your ear, you should not be over whelmed from the tweet. You may have to detune it a bit, cut some of the higher frequencies to make it sound a bit more natural, but is should not be "killing" you

 
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