Why do people turn down all the bass and mid frequency's in their doors?

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Ok thanks for all the replys. I have been looking into component speakers for my doors and noticed that some, on eBay, do not come with crossovers. Is an external cross over necessary with all component speakers or is the head unit's cross over fine? Also any opinions on Massive Audio SK6's?

are u referring to the crossover between the mid and tweeter? or the hpf for the mid?

 

[duanebro 10+ year member]

They do have some sort of xo, or need it. The least they need is a capacitor to protect the tweeter. This can be built in to the tweeter. Normally this is done to cut costs. I'd look for ones that have a 12 db crossover and adjustable tweeter level.

I've read that massive is good. But have never used them.

 

[KTMrida4life 10+ year member]

Im confused about this same thing because personally I have my mids/subs both crossed at 100hz. I had them lower, at 75 hz.. but I was either hearing my speaker distort because of too much midbass or my door panel vibrate. Not sure which I was hearing... so I tuned the HPF up and it seemed to help.

I would like more midbass but Im not sure my mids will handle it with how loud I listen to my music and how much power I have going to them (125wRMS)

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Well I have factory speakers in my doors, and they don't handle bass too well so I turn on the HPF to stop any bass going to them. I had all the bass I needed coming out of my sub so no need for it in the door speakers.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

are you saying all sets around that price are "craptacular" and wont play that low? because I use the mid from the Pioneer D-series set (109new) as dedicated midbass, and as long as I'm not listening to bass heavy rap or something I can run mine crossed at 50hz sometimes even with no HPF and all is well. even with bass heavy tracks I can cross em that low, just cant crank em wide open.

Yes, I'm saying all those sets are poor. Why? You've said yourself that they cannot keep up with bass-heavy songs and cannot 'crank em wide open'. A good set of midbass speakers can keep up with bass heavy music at high volumes. This is a combination of better construction & engineering to maintain low distortion & mechanical noise at high SPL. Now, this doesn't mean you have to go hog wild and fork over $1k for a set of components but you'll find better performance with higher price point components.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

A tweeter will play bass only once. Likewise, a crappy mid will reach its mechanical limits much quicker when it's tasked with trying to reproduce subbass and can/will fall apart.

I think your retarded, you talk of comp sets then change to say tweeters can't play bass.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I'm saying all those sets are poor. Why? You've said yourself that they cannot keep up with bass-heavy songs and cannot 'crank em wide open'. A good set of midbass speakers can keep up with bass heavy music at high volumes. This is a combination of better construction & engineering to maintain low distortion & mechanical noise at high SPL. Now, this doesn't mean you have to go hog wild and fork over $1k for a set of components but you'll find better performance with higher price point components.

Any speaker will bottom at some point when overdriven. U take the best midbass u have, and run it with no HPF and crank it wide open on a bassy hip hop song and tell me it doesnt bottom at some point...that's something id have to see for myself to believe. I just cant believe that a 6.5 midbass will extend as low as u want it at high volume and not bottom.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Any speaker will bottom at some point when overdriven.

That's not what we're talking about here. The key is being able to drive your front midbass speakers so they keep up with your subwoofers. If your gains are set correctly and you have to play with the HPF every time you listen to a bass-heavy song so your speakers don't bottom out; you need better midbasses. Simple as that.

There are midbass/component speakers out there that will play down to 50hz that do not bottom out at high volume levels. Unfortunately, there are many that cannot...even some dedicated 6.5" subwoofers.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

That's not what we're talking about here. The key is being able to drive your front midbass speakers so they keep up with your subwoofers. If your gains are set correctly and you have to play with the HPF every time you listen to a bass-heavy song so your speakers don't bottom out; you need better midbasses. Simple as that.
There are midbass/component speakers out there that will play down to 50hz that do not bottom out at high volume levels. Unfortunately, there are many that cannot...even some dedicated 6.5" subwoofers.

Guess its time to start experimenting then! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Could be my enclosure too....

 

[MCQuad 10+ year member]

Ok I have another question. If I purchase a pair of mids and tweeters, do they need to be from the same manufacturer? Or is it possible to mix one brand of tweeter with another brand of mid range driver? If I end up going with the same brand of mids and tweets, does the crossover need to be from that same brand? Or will any brand of crossover work as long long as its 12/db? In other words, if I purchase a pair of Hertz or Massive Audio components, does the crossover need to be the same brand and also does it need to also be the one originally designed forthe specific model I go with?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Not necessarily that u need the same brand but every driver will not work with every passive xover due to changes in impedance and phase as frequencies change.

It'll be much easier to just buy an already assembled 2 way passive component set, or get drivers and run active. Or else you'll be forced with being very choicy, and limited on drivers that will work and you'll be doing tons of research on passive xover construction and multiple drivers. Trust me, I know!

 

[MCQuad 10+ year member]

Ok thanks for clearing up that confusion Princ3cmo! Any recommendations for components in the 120$ price range? Passive xover, 2 way.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Pioneer ts d1720c or Boston acoustics SC, se, or s series get my vote for passive 2 way comps in your price range.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Dude, that's a lot of words.