Why am i getting popping sounds!!!!!?

CHARGER_GUY
10+ year member

Junior Member
Hi all, i purchased a 12" Rockford fosgate from someone on here that was reconed previously... It's rated on RF's spec sheet to handle 1000 watts RMS, i have a Crossfire VR1000D, wired at 2 ohms so it's giving it about 600 Watts RMS if it's lucky. I have installed it in two different spec'd boxes.. a 1.25 cu ft box and a 2.0 cu ft ported box. And i get the same results. Can someone please help determine the reasoning behind this?

 
crossfire puts out 1k @ 2ohm on 12v
That can't be right.. here's a some info i've found on it.

■Over the past decade Crossfire Car Audio has risen to the forefront of the amplifier market and dominated in the competition scene. In 2001 alone Crossfire's 1000D Amplifier single handedly brought home 37 trophies in 3 different sanctioning bodies, (including 19 in the top three), and the Db Drag Extreme Cup (for the highest SPL of the show). The all-new VR series amplifiers are the result of this success. Unrivaled performance, rock solid reliability, and a sleek new look, all provided to you at an affordable price, this is what Crossfire is all about.

■Military Spec, audiophile grade components: For exceptional sound quality, power output and reliability

■Full Mosfet PWM power supplies with Ultra efficient

■Multi-Stranded power torroids: At 86% efficiency Crossfire Class-D amplifiers are unparalleled!

■Built-in Continuously variable Highpass/ lowpass crossovers 50Hz to 250Hz (Input and Output): For system design versatility and cleaner signal paths.

■Built in "Bridging Module": The internal bridging module allows two like amplifiers to be run into one load.

■Continuously Variable Subsonic filter 20Hz to 50Hz: Helps protect a subwoofer from damaging frequencies

■Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Allows for accurate control of the subwoofer level from the drivers seat.

■High Current Class D subwoofer amplifier

■1 ohm stable

■Wired Bass Remote Included

■Tested Power: 1332 Watts RMS

■1000W x 1 at 1 ohm

■500W X 1 at 2 ohms

■250W x 1 RMS at 4 ohms

■Tested Power: 1332 Watts RMS

■Variable Subsonic Filter

■Variable Highpass/Lowpass Crossover from 50 to 500Hz

■Low level (RCA) inputs only

■MOSFET power supply

■Nickel plated connectors

■5 way protection circuits

■9.3"W x 2.1"H x 14.5" L

■This is an Open Box item, it has been thoroughly tested by Crossfire Electronics, and operates exactly as new.

■Warranty: 90 Day Limited

■Condition: Very Good, Minor cosmetic scratches.

■Reason for discount: Customer return

■Includes: All parts and accessories which accompany new Amplifier.

VR-1000D - Crossfire 1000 Watt Mono Amplifier VR 1000D

 
just because its rated something doesnt mean thats what it actually does...

So how do i find out for sure?

He has the VR4000D, I was thinking maybe he mixed it up with my VR1000D.

Anyways, how do i find out for sure? Other single speakers didn't pop on this amp.

 
So how do i find out for sure?
He has the VR4000D, I was thinking maybe he mixed it up with my VR1000D.

Anyways, how do i find out for sure? Other single speakers didn't pop on this amp.
i can highly doubt he mistaken thoes 2 because 1 is twice as long as the other. put a DMM on the voice coil and see what it says

 
It's not going to have anyting to do with the amp getting adequate power. Assuming that the sound isn't caused by a flaw in the recone, it is probably the coil bottoming out.

Power rating is only the thermal capability of the sub. Almost any sub can be driven to its mechanical limits with well less than the rated power. You have to figure the box (type, volume and tuning) to get the real power handling of a sub. I've modeled drivers that in a ported box can only handle 25% or so of rated power before hitting a mechanical limit, and that's above tuning. Below tuning, the HU could just about bottom it out.

 
It's not going to have anyting to do with the amp getting adequate power. Assuming that the sound isn't caused by a flaw in the recone, it is probably the coil bottoming out.
Power rating is only the thermal capability of the sub. Almost any sub can be driven to its mechanical limits with well less than the rated power. You have to figure the box (type, volume and tuning) to get the real power handling of a sub. I've modeled drivers that in a ported box can only handle 25% or so of rated power before hitting a mechanical limit, and that's above tuning. Below tuning, the HU could just about bottom it out.
Sorry bro ... it was just a suggestion. With electronics anything is possible. Could be as simple as a bad ground.

 
i can highly doubt he mistaken thoes 2 because 1 is twice as long as the other. put a DMM on the voice coil and see what it says
I'm not sure' date=' maybe he read the Model number wrong. As far as checking it with a DMM, i did.. It's a DUAL 4Ohm , one coil reads 3.8 Ohms the other reads 4.2 Ohms, the end result after running both in parallel reads 2.1 Ohm's

does it only making the popping sound when turned up if so, back up off the gain and/or bass boost.
Yes, it makes the popping sound with gain up at 60hz, i'm afraid to go lower. and I have lowered the gain on it, i'm not completely ignorant.

if it was reconed could be lead slap to coil bottoming out..
That's what i'm thinking it is.. FML

Or I would guess that someone didn't get the dustcap glued down properly.
The foam pieces that go around the sub have fell off on one section' date=' but cone is glued to basket.

Amp have adequate battery power / Wiring ???
Yes, Amp has Adequate power.

It's not going to have anyting to do with the amp getting adequate power. Assuming that the sound isn't caused by a flaw in the recone' date=' it is probably the coil bottoming out.
Power rating is only the thermal capability of the sub. Almost any sub can be driven to its mechanical limits with well less than the rated power. You have to figure the box (type, volume and tuning) to get the real power handling of a sub. I've modeled drivers that in a ported box can only handle 25% or so of rated power before hitting a mechanical limit, and that's above tuning. Below tuning, the HU could just about bottom it out.[/quote']

I tried 3 different types of boxes with same popping sound.
 
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I had a Crossfire CFA1000D before(the 1st-gen model from yours) and no, it doesn't do 1000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms but they do more than 600 watts @ 2 ohms...underrated amp. It does around 1300~1400 watts RMS @ 1 ohm with good voltage. Thing was a beast.

 
I had a Crossfire CFA1000D before(the 1st-gen model from yours) and no, it doesn't do 1000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms but they do more than 600 watts @ 2 ohms...underrated amp. It does around 1300~1400 watts RMS @ 1 ohm with good voltage. Thing was a beast.
My amp does 500x1 @ 2ohms, Supposedly... That's why i said 600 watts rms..plus i'm really giving it 300-350 rms due to the fact that the gain on my amp is just a little over half way.

This sub is to handle 1000w rms with SPEC'D BOXES from Rockford Fosgate, right? So at not even 3/4's, it's popping!

 
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