Who Will Win Memphis Or Autotek??/?

[bumpinrecords 10+ year member]

autotek mx 5000 or AutoTek Class D Digital Mono Block XS1500.1 or Memphis 1500 D Class High Current Mono Block i need to know what one i should get to power 3 JL 12w6 help me out

Click to read more...

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

autotek mx 5000 or AutoTek Class D Digital Mono Block XS1500.1 or Memphis 1500 D Class High Current Mono Block i need to know what one i should get to power 3 JL 12w6 help me out

get whichever amp fits your $$ limit. also whatever amps puts closer to rms of the subs at the proper ohm load. neither amp assuming both are 1500 watts will sound better than the other.

adam

 

[bumpinrecords 10+ year member]

well im not concern about price i have the money the speakers im using is 3 JL 12w6 i jsut want to get the best out of the 3 i have a autoteck stealth 500.s pushing the 3 12 now and they hit hard *** hell but i need more power . i know all 3 amps are good but i have a choice of the 3 what would you pick

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

I'd get what looks good, if all three is the same.

 

[BooLeaN 10+ year member]

Hey I am selling an American Bass XD1800. It does 1800 Watts RMS at 1 ohm, and the 3 JL12w6's can be wired to 1 ohm so it'd be a nice match. I'm taking offers for the amp.

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

Hey I am selling an American Bass XD1800. It does 1800 Watts RMS at 1 ohm, and the 3 JL12w6's can be wired to 1 ohm so it'd be a nice match. I'm taking offers for the amp.

that 1800 is 1600 at best.

adam

 

[Fibaglassa 10+ year member]

When deciding which amp will push this or that.....check the fuses

for every 10A worth of fuses, thats 100watts of power.

so if your legacy amp says 1000watts but only has a 30A fuse in it, guess what?

But even if you have say an amp with 5 30A fuses you still are not getting the full

1500watts if you havent upgraded the big 3 and your alternater/battery.

and BTW, there is an credible argument going on that you cant even hear the

difference in amps, as long as the total power ( and total fuses) are the same.

all else being equal just look for features you like, such as remote bass, shiny chrome finish , number of channels, etc.

PS. on unfused amps (RF), look for some sort of certificate thats states the total max power or check what the manufactor recommends for the in-line fuse.

 

[lumpmoron2 10+ year member]

i always used that "check the fuse" trick and its pretty reliable. of course if the amp your checking is fully regulated the fuse might be lower than the actual power it can produce since it doesnt rely on brute voltage..

 

[bumpinrecords 10+ year member]

well thanks for your help guys look like im gonna go with the chrome autotek then although that memphis is chrome too dayum forgot about that lol

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

i like memphis amps.... had experience w/them.. like the performance

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

When deciding which amp will push this or that.....check the fuses
for every 10A worth of fuses, thats 100watts of power.

so if your legacy amp says 1000watts but only has a 30A fuse in it, guess what?

But even if you have say an amp with 5 30A fuses you still are not getting the full

1500watts if you havent upgraded the big 3 and your alternater/battery.

and BTW, there is an credible argument going on that you cant even hear the

difference in amps, as long as the total power ( and total fuses) are the same.

all else being equal just look for features you like, such as remote bass, shiny chrome finish , number of channels, etc.

PS. on unfused amps (RF), look for some sort of certificate thats states the total max power or check what the manufactor recommends for the in-line fuse.

help me on this, if you have an amp say anything by Cadence or Zapco the fuse rating= power output goes to crap so this is not a very good way IMO to use that. i hear people saying fuse rating means everything, well in many cases it doesnt.

adam