Which will sound better?

[cfox10 10+ year member]

A single set of midbass drivers around 60hz and up on 100w rms, or two on 50w rms each with my crossover a little lower around 45hz. Which will give more output?

I'm asking because if I give rated power to my current polks, I have to up the crossover a lot. If I have them running on a lower rated amp, I can up the xover but output is weak.

I want as much midbass as I can without compromising on SQ

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[cfox10 10+ year member]

Hmmmm.... anybody?

More mids lower power

less mids higher power?

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

single better midbass per side gets my vote...

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

Keep hope alive will answer this give him tine and he shall come

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

Keep hope alive will answer this give him tine and he shall come

Sounds good.

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

single better midbass per side gets my vote...

Can I ask why? Just curious. Which midbass drivers get low with some power without distorting? I'm tired of having to crossover so high. I heard CDT get pretty low with power.

 

[Sonic. 10+ year member]

Cross your subs higher and use a single mid bass driver per side.

 

[cfox10 10+ year member]

Cross your subs higher and use a single mid bass driver per side.

My subs are tuned around 32hz, and they hate playing higher notes. I'm looking at either new subs or new midbass drivers, and at this point new midbass drivers would be cheaper unless I want to make a new box and see if my subs do well on the higher notes... then I'd be dropping off a lot on my lowend notes. It's in a truck so no room for 4th order or anything tricky.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Can I ask why? Just curious. Which midbass drivers get low with some power without distorting? I'm tired of having to crossover so high. I heard CDT get pretty low with power.

AA carbon fiber mids were some of my favs, not sure if you can still get them new though. I've run those in a few vehicles.

This would be another good option: DIYCable.com : Intro » Home » Exodus Anarchy »

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Can I ask why? Just curious. Which midbass drivers get low with some power without distorting? I'm tired of having to crossover so high. I heard CDT get pretty low with power.

Well my only complaint with my CDT's was that I had to cross them so high. I had to cross them around 100hz or so, granted I was running about 100w per side. Now I'm running Crescendo mids crossed at 70hz w/ ~120w per side.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Experimentation is key here. No one knows what that sound is in your head that you are looking for. The more you play around with things, the more you will find what you like. Go with one setup, and then in 6 months or so go with the other one. See which you like better, and run with it.

And definitely cross your mids higher than 45Hz. 80Hz is a decent starting point. Some people prefer 100Hz, some people like 70Hz. When it comes to that, it's a lot about your install and how well your sub will blend with your mids at a certain frequency. Again, play around with it, the outcome will be better to your ears than something someone here will suggest, more than likely.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

@keep_hope_alive ;

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

OP go over to diyma and do some reading. There's a ton of info/reviews on every popular mid out there...

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

in order to get good response down to 40Hz, I had to fully seal my door and also fill it with PVC encased fiberglass batt. midbass response requires good isolation of the rear wave. i wouldn't hassle with two - you'll have comb filtering issues as frequency increases and it's much more complex to build well. the time and effort is better spent on one set of nice midbass woofers, and the install required.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Cross your subs higher and use a single mid bass driver per side.

This is the proper answer.

My subs are tuned around 32hz, and they hate playing higher notes. I'm looking at either new subs or new midbass drivers, and at this point new midbass drivers would be cheaper unless I want to make a new box and see if my subs do well on the higher notes... then I'd be dropping off a lot on my lowend notes. It's in a truck so no room for 4th order or anything tricky.

Then you have designed an enclosure that falsely eliminates frequency response by losing output before your mids can take charge. You should not be using midbass drivers to produce the sound between 45-60hz. That is a "sub" range.