which 8" midbass?

[joeman 10+ year member]

What you already have certainly has alot more potential than what the install is allowing. What good is fixing something that falls or comes loose if its not functioning properly to begin with?
With that being said, Ill second the vote on the MW172, but youll most likely be back with issues on them as well with the track record of your installer...

Thanks for the info I will check out the MW172...

Ha... Tweeter wont be touching my car for any additional work. Once burned, They only got my business in the first place because they underquoted the job and timeframe, and basically nobody else wanted to install parts I bought from internet vendors.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

if that install is fixed then there wouldn't be a 'weak area' and no need for 8"s

Agreed, but apparently he just wants to spend money..

 

[joeman 10+ year member]

if that install is fixed then there wouldn't be a 'weak area' and no need for 8"s

So you guys actually think some 100w (I admit very HQ) 6.5 mids will keep up with a pair of 1000w subs?

My prob is mainly SPL.... and I dont want to detune my subs. The Lotus sound fine until I crank the system near max, and even then, they still sound fine above 150hz

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Even 8" drivers in the doors will not keep up with that much power going to a couple of subwoofers. It's simple matter of displacement.

Those Lotus mids though, are VERY nice, and should run flat down to 80 hz. There shouldn't be a drop off at 150 hz.

Something is wrong with the install. So, even putting 8's in there won't fix your overall problem.

 

[joeman 10+ year member]

ok, thanks. maybe I need some baffling or move those x-overs out of the way

 

[joeman 10+ year member]

I decided I'm still getting some 8s. I need DVC-4 ohm or SVC-8 ohm subs @300w RMS.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

I decided I'm still getting some 8s. I need DVC-4 ohm or SVC-8 ohm subs @300w RMS.

Peerless SLS 8's. they are cheap and freaking wang. all you need is to give it an honest 75 watts @ 8 ohms IB in doors. output is pretty insane and its cheap, $60 a driver. thats the midbass i'd probably be using if i could fit them. nice balanced sound, good low end extension and punchy to boot.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif.

seriously, these things rock. they can easily play down to 20hz. don't believe me? read the midbass test i was a part of, http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11159.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

the question is, how well do they perform in an IB install. that SLS looks nice, but IB makes me ichy. i cant do pods in my current doors without major modifications (and im not willing in this car lol) so i need IB.

and i need up to about 1.2khz.

"One last thing: this driver isn’t a good choice if you need something to play up to 1 KHz. Won’t do it."

so they are out of my mind now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

for me, the Morel MW 266 sounds like a better bang for the buck. i dont need them to play lower than 80hz, so they should be good.

i dunno, it really all depends on your substage and your midrange\tweeter. if you can go active 3 way in the front, no biggie. but for me its 2way or the highway. ID horns FTW.

good stuff here. some good mids to take a look at. i wish i could do all the testing these guys did //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

the question is, how well do they perform in an IB install. that SLS looks nice, but IB makes me ichy. i cant do pods in my current doors without major modifications (and im not willing in this car lol) so i need IB.
and i need up to about 1.2khz.

"One last thing: this driver isn’t a good choice if you need something to play up to 1 KHz. Won’t do it."

so they are out of my mind now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

for me, the Morel MW 266 sounds like a better bang for the buck. i dont need them to play lower than 80hz, so they should be good.

i dunno, it really all depends on your substage and your midrange\tweeter. if you can go active 3 way in the front, no biggie. but for me its 2way or the highway. ID horns FTW.

good stuff here. some good mids to take a look at. i wish i could do all the testing these guys did //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

well like you said the SLSs won't play up to 1.2khz or so but that test was using my door pods in an IB install and just read his reviews //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. its very balanced and full, yet punchy as well and can get low. output is awesome. again sls were getting 75 watts @ 8 ohms. if i could fit them, i'd probably be running without a sub. it really does satisfy my bass needs.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

I wouldn't even think of running them in the rear. You need them in the front or you don't need them at all. As everyone else said fix the install first...

 

[joeman 10+ year member]

Around what freq would I notice localization?

I was listening to my system last night after some tweeking and it is a pretty balanced setup after all. I adjusted the Seas down to 120hz and bumped the EQs in the 100Hz range it sounds a lil better now. It was so loud I actually got Ill from the earache later on. Not cool if youve experienced that.

I think I need to pull my sounstage a little higher though. I wish I could re-aim them because the fire almost staright across. It sounds much better if I put my head down at gearshift level. I have a couple unused spots on each side of the dash that housed a shitty OEM 2.25" mid. Should I throw a tweeter or something in there firing at the windshield?? How would I wire it and still get 4 ohms to my comps?

 

[Tonyguy 10+ year member]

where can i buy those peerless drivers?

 

[wolfman1966 10+ year member]

my vote is RE8s i have for sale

just my opinion, but I wouldn't call RE8's midbass...I have 2 in my trunk with a 300 watt amp pushing them, and they are probably hitting over 130db (gonna try and get them metered this week). They are definately Subwoofers maybe they don't get as low as bigger woofers, but they get plenty low and loud for me

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

The SEAS should easily play down to 80hz and below. Your install is holding you back, I PROMISE you that.

For one, the deflex pads aren't doing squat with the x-over in the way. The installer was lazy and wanted to run as little cable as possible. I know you say you have 100sq ft of SS in various places, but how well are your doors done? I'd say a minimum of 2 layers on the outer and 1 on the inner, and I'm sure your doors have big gaping holes in the inner panel, you definitely need to seal those up.

If you do this, and then you feel you're still lacking in that region, then it's possible you were just expecting too much and ended up disappointed, maybe a decent 8" midbass will help you out then, but I still say you can do with out it.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

Around what freq would I notice localization?
I was listening to my system last night after some tweeking and it is a pretty balanced setup after all. I adjusted the Seas down to 120hz and bumped the EQs in the 100Hz range it sounds a lil better now. It was so loud I actually got Ill from the earache later on. Not cool if youve experienced that.

I think I need to pull my sounstage a little higher though. I wish I could re-aim them because the fire almost staright across. It sounds much better if I put my head down at gearshift level. I have a couple unused spots on each side of the dash that housed a shitty OEM 2.25" mid. Should I throw a tweeter or something in there firing at the windshield?? How would I wire it and still get 4 ohms to my comps?

Pretty easy to test, play around with your crossover and see. To me I can't handle a sub playing any higher than 50hz with a shallow slope or at most 63hz with 24db in either of my current vehicles. Remember midbass >>> subbass