Where is the sq section???

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Where is the sq section??? I need sq help from a person who really knows there stuff.

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[c_nitty 10+ year member]

Diyma

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

yea, guess i will have to join over there. Bahhhhhhhhh I just need 1 person who really knows his stuff. There has to be atleast 1 on this site....

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

bro whats your queztion?? lol

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Its a question about running silk and metal dome tweets all in the same setup. Same tweet just ones metal ones silk. I am thinking there is going to be some form of delay kinda sound. To be clear running 4 tweets and 2 would be silk and the other 2 would be metal. Both getting the same power and set at 2.8k

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

i heard metal would not sound good , idk if its tru or not bro

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

I have run both before and I like metal over silk. But since I will be using 2 sets this time I think metal may get a tad harsh. Each set wired in parr for a 2ohm load so they will have a good 200+ on tap. I may end up having to cross them alil higher 3k or so.

Direction and help still needed...

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

why not just increase the slope on the metal ones

edit are you running 1 of each on both sides ie 1 metal and one silk paralleled on each side?

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

I guess u would need to know what all I will have to know my options or give a suggestion

The tweets will be wired in parr for a 2ohm load crossed from 2.8-3.2hz

2 set of these - SEAS Prestige Line 27TAFNC/G Aluminum Dome Tweeter - Hasaudio

2 sets of these wired parr for a 2ohm load crossed around 60hz-80hz- Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone: Madisound Speaker Store

Basic HU 2.4v preouts no real eq was planning on using the amps till a better HU could be bought. I know a good eq would be a good idea but that will have to wait its turn.

This amp - NEW MB QUART Q4.150 4-CHANNEL AMPLIFIER 1760W CAR AMP | eBay

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

i think you should hold off untill you get your eqing up to par, the discus alone isnt going to be great at this duty, im assuming your wanting to run active. So start there with an active capable headunit.

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

I guess u would need to know what all I will have to know my options or give a suggestion
The tweets will be wired in parr for a 2ohm load crossed from 2.8-3.2hz

1 set of these - SEAS Prestige Line 27TAFNC/G Aluminum Dome Tweeter - Hasaudio

1 set of these - THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - H1396-04 27TFFNC/G

2 sets of these wired parr for a 2ohm load crossed 60k-80k- Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone: Madisound Speaker Store

Basic HU 2.4v preouts no real eq was planning on using the amps till a better HU could be bought. I know a good eq would be a good idea but that will have to wait its turn.

This amp - NEW MB QUART Q4.150 4-CHANNEL AMPLIFIER 1760W CAR AMP | eBay

what exactly are you meaning here i think your off? 60k ie 60,000??>? I dont think youll get much out of the silver flutes. And i have no personal experiencee with the mids or tweets but im thinking the silver flutes should be crossed higher then 60 maybe 70hz 73hz or lower with a higher slope. For example i have my mpyres crossed at 56hz with a 12db slope 6 or flat is muddy but loud with impressive bass response, but at 12 its slightly less loud but 100 percent more clear in my opinion. As for the tweets, i think if you are wanting to run a nice front stage you should ditch one set of the tweets and pick up yourself a dedicated midbass speaker, the midbass speaker to play the range of 40-150 or higher your preference, the flutes 135-6k maybe( like i said no experience with them) and then the tweeters 4500- up

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Recommendation on a low budget eq? Thats pretty much means all Audio Control Equipment is out of my budget. A new HU is in the pipes but even that being said it want be the greatest as my budget is my budget and I cant really go over by too much.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

ok thx to dumple again for helping me a good bit. I know what I really need is an active head unit but at this time I can not afford one as a max budget has been set and a $200+hu want fit. So dumple said my 2nd best option would be too buy an external crossover as the one on the mbq is not good enough. I am going to stick with my idea of 2 sets of tweets and 2 sets of mids but I will be just using all metal dome. I really appreciate ur time and advice dumple.

If anyone has other concerns or suggestions let me know. All advice will be much appreciated.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

New setup starting up and this time I am going to go active or semi active whichever I can do.

Let me start off by saying that I know the best and tru way to go active is to get an active HU. Well a HU is not in my budget right now so getting one is out of the question. Now thats out the way so we can get down to what my next step should be. My idea is to run 2 sets of tweets and 2 sets of 6.5's in the front doors. Wiring each set in parr for a 2ohm load per set. Amp was going to be a NEW MB QUART Q4.150 4-CHANNEL AMPLIFIER 1760W CAR AMP | eBay I have used the smaller 4.125 and it did me right and gave me zero issues, plus every other amp that can do REAL 150x4@4ohm cost 3 times as much as this amp. Well in the last few days I have been told that amp is not active capable. I thought it was but now I am told nope will sound like crap. So I was told the best thing for me to do is to buy an external crossover and the cheapest compared to the price of a nice active HU. Or I could buy a amp that is active capable (sundown100.4d) for example. I can’t afford a 100.4 of course but now I want to know which route is the best using a external crossover or buying a active capable amp??? Pros and Cons of going with one over the other????

Also, I don’t know how to even tell a amp is capable of going active. Something bout band pass and something went right over my head. Can yall help me figure out the best way to go.

Option 1 - non active hu, non active amp, no external crossover.

Option 2 - non active hu, non active amp, external crossover

Option 3 - non active hu, active amp, no external crossover

Let me know what option is best for me but also give me some kind of direction on where to look for the things I will need to be able to do that option. I have no idea how to spy an active amp nor do I know a good external crossover from a POS either. So links, names, anything could help. Ok so now the money issue the crossover cannot cost more than $80 max. If going with a active amp is my best option then that amp cannot cost more than $240-270 and it must be able to do a min of 200rmsx4@2ohm. Legit amps guys I know I am on a budget but what I am wanting is possible with my budget just got to buy what I need not what I might need.

Substage will be last a later but will prob end up being 2 custom 10's and a bc3500, aq3500, 2 X BC2000's. So I am building a front stage that can keep up with the substage. I wanna hear wrds, I love bass but I got to be able to hear the song at the same time. All help appreciated..

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

What about this?

Clarion MCD360 3-way Electronic Crossover - Sonic Electronix