When to upgrade electrical system?

[Str8Up 10+ year member]

It all depends on the car. Right now im gettin 13.3 volts to the amps.

Same here, 13.3v. I'm runing a Hifonics 1500D, and a Hifonics 2 channel amp that puts out 200rmsx2. So almost 2000rms total, and I barely get any dimming. Only when I've been at a stop light for a while. Other than that, when my car is moving I don't have a problem. I have a stock 125amp alt, and a 2nd 600amp battery in the trunk.

 

[Termlab 10+ year member]

what is the "big 3" if i might ask. maybe i know what it is...... but i dont know of it as "the big 3". so just wanted to clear this up first.

i usually dont upgrade anything in the electrical system as i hardly ever run anything greater than 800 RMS.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

The big three is upgrading the stock battery and alt wiring. Judging by most stock connectors and wiring Ive seen used, its not a bad idea to do any time you start adding significant draw on the charging system. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

But as far as when exactly to upgrade it, or when to upgrade your alt, that's the $64,000 question. There is no exact answer. There are too many variables: your car's charging system, the charging system's current state, the stereo equipment you use and even your listening habits can affect if/when you need an upgrade. Lets face it, someone with a 1000 watt system who listens to it full blast all the time could need to upgrade sooner than someone with a 2000 watt system that rarely if ever bumps it at full potential. Best advice is to get the system going, probably go ahead and upgrade the big 3 if you are concerned as its not an expensive upgrade, and see what happens. Watch your voltage and see if your charging system keeps up, and not just by cranking the stereo and watching for headlight dimming, but over a period of time.

 

[LBX2G 10+ year member]

see what i was say is that is what the manaul segguest u to run as ur fuse under the hood, as if u where u just running one amp. so if u combine those terms them u get the max amps it will draw. U will be ok go have fun. I just nee to run a 130 a fuse under the hood and run then run an 80 for the a1600 and an 40 or an 30 for the 600 at the distruibtor block.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Fuse sizes are not a reliable way of determining amperage draw.

 

[LBX2G 10+ year member]

yeah i kno this. but this is what the maual says and they do not tell how many amps the ampilifer will draw.

 

[`pr0digy 10+ year member]

It all depends on the car. Right now i have about 2000w on my civic with a stock alt besides the big 3 and im gettin 13.3 volts to the amps.

No offense, but 2000w/13.3v = 150 amps... And that's without factoring in effiency...

188 amps assuming 80% effiency.... (if my simple calculation is right).

Sure, plenty of people are getting tons of watts with stock alts, but they can't ACTUALLY be getting that RMS because it defies the laws of physics, no ?

 

[icemayne696 10+ year member]

Well....too smart for me......

 

[LIGHTBEING 10+ year member]

No offense, but 2000w/13.3v = 150 amps... And that's without factoring in effiency...188 amps assuming 80% effiency.... (if my simple calculation is right).

Sure, plenty of people are getting tons of watts with stock alts, but they can't ACTUALLY be getting that RMS because it defies the laws of physics, no ?

that's exactly what I'm talking about. By those numbers wouldn't I need around a 200a HO Alternotor? How would a 140A suffice? i don't get it. Some say I need 200a and other say a lot less.

 

[LBX2G 10+ year member]

hook it up and see. I think that u will be fine. do ur amps have fuses already.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

Fuse sizes are not a reliable way of determining amperage draw.

Yeah, some amps dont have fuses //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[ighettoboyi 10+ year member]

my interior lights dim a lot more than my headlights

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

try the "big-3" before you go spend a bunch of money on a new alternator. the big 3 costs less than like 20$ to do and it improves your electrical current. Try that... if you still get dimming then look into buying the new alternator. i'm just sayin if the big-3 works there is no point in buying a 400$ alternator.

 

[`pr0digy 10+ year member]

hook it up and see. I think that u will be fine. do ur amps have fuses already.

Point is, it might play music fine, but your lying if you say your doing 2000 watts RMS off of anything under a 200 amp alt...

 

[LBX2G 10+ year member]

Point is, it might play music fine, but your lying if you say your doing 2000 watts RMS off of anything under a 200 amp alt...

uhhhhhhhhhhh why are u quoteing me. I have nowhere near that much. I run an system at 140 watts max. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/toast.gif.bc0657bf54b9ee653b6438524461341e.gif

But i was say if the amp are not fused on the motherboard. Then u the manual says to run 90 amps battery fuse for the 16000 watts and and 40amps at the battery for the 600 watts. So that means fuse the wire. So in other word they are kinda sayin what the amps will draw max.