When to upgrade alternator?

[oceanhawk]

I understand my question is rather vague but I'm just curious how many watts does your system have to be pushing in order for you to consider upgrading to a new alternator. I'm planning on getting a 2500 RMS sub with corresponding amp.

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

The sooner the better.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Really depends on the car. Some cars can run a 2000+ watts amp. With nothing more than a extra battery and big 3. Others can't safely run 700 watts

 

[oceanhawk]

I have a 2014 Challenger RT. I dont know what the stock alternator puts out, but it was just a general question anyways. I have a 12" kicker l7 Q Class, prefab box and a MB Quarts 1000 Monoblock. I know its garbage lol, but at least my car can handle that. Im trying to put together a "Big Boy System" soon and just asking some basic questions.

 

[DaytonLax14 10+ year member]

You won't know until you try...

But I will tell you this. I run roughly 2000 watts off a stock 120 amp alternator with the big 3 and an agm under the hood

 

[oceanhawk]

i've heard this a couple times from people.... Whats the "big 3" mean?

 

[DaytonLax14 10+ year member]

i've heard this a couple times from people.... Whats the "big 3" mean?

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/152355-official-caraudio-com-big-3-thread.html

 

[los33 10+ year member]

I have a 2014 Challenger RT. I dont know what the stock alternator puts out, but it was just a general question anyways. I have a 12" kicker l7 Q Class, prefab box and a MB Quarts 1000 Monoblock. I know its garbage lol, but at least my car can handle that. Im trying to put together a "Big Boy System" soon and just asking some basic questions.

You have a stock 150amp alternator.

The best you can do without upgrading the alt and just having a agm battery to keep you at 12.5v would be 1800 watts max.

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[jboy2015]

i've heard this a couple times from people.... Whats the "big 3" mean?

This is a good vid

 

[oceanhawk]

"Learning I am"

 

[oceanhawk]

@ jboy & Dayton.... thanks for the info

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Get a big 3 and Agm. Should be fine

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

All any of us can do is guess. How often you run your stereo at full tilt, and even the type of music you listen to, affect the demand your stereo will apply to your charging system. I am of the same mindset as many people here in that I like to build my charging system in order to be confident I dont have to concern myself about voltage drop if I flex the system's muscles for an extended time (engine-on). But the reality is, a person can get by with a smaller charging system, if his listening habits allow it. When someone asks me if they need to upgrade their alt and/or batt, and budget is a concern, I first look at the situation. If their charging system is even within the ballpark of acceptable, I usually suggest seeing what happens (but watch voltage gauge, and carry jumper cables). If its not even close, then I suggest looking into an alt/batt upgrade.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Really depends on the car. Some cars can run a 2000+ watts amp. With nothing more than a extra battery and big 3. Others can't safely run 700 watts

yup

You won't know until you try...

yup

You have a stock 150amp alternator.
The best you can do without upgrading the alt and just having a agm battery to keep you at 12.5v would be 1800 watts max.

I know everyone wants a black and white answer to this question, but there isn't one.

Like the other two said -- there's really no number you can put on a particular stock set up. There are some very basic generalities, but nothing is absolute (or even typical) on this issue.

I remember one of the moderators and Sounddomain a few years ago regularly pointing out he was running 2100 on a 95A alt for a couple years w/no significant problems.

I on the other hand ran 1500 on 130A and blew 2 of them in 3 yrs, and I don't blast it very often.

GENERALLY - I figure at 1000 you should probably be aware of your HO options because unless the stock alt is a monster, it's probably not going to last long. Going up from there the rate of stock alt failure's going to increase, on average of course.

In my current car I'm still running a stock alt with 1500w rms. I have no electrical issues besides very minor high volume dimming, but it's a 160A stock alt.

At 2500 I'd say go ahead and install it, but have a plan. See if there's an auto electric shop in the vicinity that will rebuild it with better parts. See if there after market upgrades.

It's likely that alt will struggle hard when it's beating. Struggling means heat, consistent heat means early failure.

 

[sharky]

There are 2 different methods of determining requirements of the alternator..one uses the efficiency of an amp (which is the more accurate method).

My answer to the question is how ever much power you have, always leave as much headroom as possible with any system...Alternators work extremely hard when they work at or near their limits and wont live a very long life from the heat created...remember that your sound system isnt the only thing that uses power from the alternator.

If you have a true 2000w RMS system you will want at minimum a 225 amp alternator to not have any problems down the road...This is based on a class D amplifier which has the highest efficiency..A class A/B would want even more.