Great Thread! It's great to have resources like this just starting out.
Let's try to get a few basics under our wing: Watts is a measurement of power...which can do many things...power a speaker, make an electric motor spin...anything. So, when you see power ratings, they really don't tell you anything. As stated above, RMS power is a little better way to look at amps, but the only true way to see if an amp is any good is to listen to it. It doesn't matter what an amp says it will do, if it doesn't sound good, it doesn't matter!
A good amp will have plenty of power, it all depends how much you decide to use, kinda like your car engine. If you have a Honda (Honda drivers...don't respond, this is just an example) and you are trying to pull a 5,000 LB load, you will have to use plenty of RPMs to move that load. This is a simple example, but pulling that same load with a beefy Chevy V8 will require much less RMP. You amps work much the same way: If you get an amp that will give you, say, 300 watts, and you use all 300 watts, it will sound like complete crap. Get an amp that has 600 watts RMS if you really need 200 watts.
Now, other things to concider: what is the frequecy response of the amp. What if you are trying to run a sub, in a tuned enclosure, from 20hz to 80hz, and your amp has a frequecy response of 80hz to 14,000hz. It won't matter how many watts you have, you will get no bass whatsoever from your sub.
Then there is damping factor: basically, in simple terms, this is the amps ability to return the speaker to zero before starting the next wave. Higher is better.
Then there is that impedance thing mentioned above: the load that you present to the amp, 8 ohm, 4 ohm, 2 ohm, 1/2 ohm will cause the amp to react and produce power differently. Most car audio amps run best (which should say SOUNDS BEST) at 4 ohm stereo (or 8 ohm mono.) The distortion here is much, much lower than at the lower impedances.
Most of the cheap power amps (we have all seen 1,000 watts for $150) don't tell you the whole story 'cause they know most people associate loud music with lots of watts. This is so untrue, but they make lots of money selling big watt crap-amps.
Go to your local stereo shop. Ask to hear the cheapest or worst amp they have on some really good speakers. Put in some of your music an just rock out...really push the system. Then ask the sales-dork to put on the best amp. Do the same test. You will hear a difference.
Don't be afraid to buy an amp that sounds good, but does not have as many watts as your friends. There are many really good amps out there that do not cost too much. And don't worry that your system is not the loudest out there...build it for yourself and don't worry about the crowds...there will ALWAYS be a better system out there, 'cause there will always be someone with many more dollars.
Keep asking questions...the resources we have today are just awesome...take everything with a grain of sand, and learn a little bit from everyone.
Let's try to get a few basics under our wing: Watts is a measurement of power...which can do many things...power a speaker, make an electric motor spin...anything. So, when you see power ratings, they really don't tell you anything. As stated above, RMS power is a little better way to look at amps, but the only true way to see if an amp is any good is to listen to it. It doesn't matter what an amp says it will do, if it doesn't sound good, it doesn't matter!
A good amp will have plenty of power, it all depends how much you decide to use, kinda like your car engine. If you have a Honda (Honda drivers...don't respond, this is just an example) and you are trying to pull a 5,000 LB load, you will have to use plenty of RPMs to move that load. This is a simple example, but pulling that same load with a beefy Chevy V8 will require much less RMP. You amps work much the same way: If you get an amp that will give you, say, 300 watts, and you use all 300 watts, it will sound like complete crap. Get an amp that has 600 watts RMS if you really need 200 watts.
Now, other things to concider: what is the frequecy response of the amp. What if you are trying to run a sub, in a tuned enclosure, from 20hz to 80hz, and your amp has a frequecy response of 80hz to 14,000hz. It won't matter how many watts you have, you will get no bass whatsoever from your sub.
Then there is damping factor: basically, in simple terms, this is the amps ability to return the speaker to zero before starting the next wave. Higher is better.
Then there is that impedance thing mentioned above: the load that you present to the amp, 8 ohm, 4 ohm, 2 ohm, 1/2 ohm will cause the amp to react and produce power differently. Most car audio amps run best (which should say SOUNDS BEST) at 4 ohm stereo (or 8 ohm mono.) The distortion here is much, much lower than at the lower impedances.
Most of the cheap power amps (we have all seen 1,000 watts for $150) don't tell you the whole story 'cause they know most people associate loud music with lots of watts. This is so untrue, but they make lots of money selling big watt crap-amps.
Go to your local stereo shop. Ask to hear the cheapest or worst amp they have on some really good speakers. Put in some of your music an just rock out...really push the system. Then ask the sales-dork to put on the best amp. Do the same test. You will hear a difference.
Don't be afraid to buy an amp that sounds good, but does not have as many watts as your friends. There are many really good amps out there that do not cost too much. And don't worry that your system is not the loudest out there...build it for yourself and don't worry about the crowds...there will ALWAYS be a better system out there, 'cause there will always be someone with many more dollars.
Keep asking questions...the resources we have today are just awesome...take everything with a grain of sand, and learn a little bit from everyone.
