whats louder then 2 12 type R's on 900rms?

Why only 1000 watts... I'd shoot for 1500 - 2000 watts.

For sound quality, sealed will help you. Also, going with subs specifically designed for sealed enclosures will help too. Almani S7 might be something to look at on a budget.

I used to work for JL... I don't know if this is still one of their design goals, but they used to design their subs for a higher than average -3db down point, around 60HZ, to squeeze as much SPL out of them without any noticeable drop in sound quality... maybe look for woofers which fit that profile... you would have to start loading woofer specs into a box program to find them.

 
Well there are a few things here. First off the 1000/1 from what I heard does closer to 1300 watts rms. Also the JL's do the power pretty even from 1.5 ohm to 4 ohm. (true ohm not wired) as a lot of people know subs vary on their imped while playing. You can have a sub wired at 1 ohm and it actually be seeing 4 ohms on a test tone depending on freq. your amp may only put out 300 to 400 watts with imped rise and his may put out the full 1300 watts. so that is the first problem. 2nd off I have a hard time buying that w3's would take the Type r's. I have one of the 12 currently in my daily car off 500 watts and WOW . it is LOUD. It could be the car as well. Or also you could not have your gains set properly . Everybody thinks hey I can hook up this amp and put this sub in any box and it will work great. Honestly 90 percent of your volume will be from the install. not the subs. you could be running DD 15's and if you put them in 1 cube ported a piece. they wouldn't do CRAP. So there are some of the problems. i assure you. If the type r's were done correct should be fine. Honestly depending on mic. Lets go with audio control. Depending on the car those two 12's done properly should be able to break a 150. Also you layed your seat down/detached depending on the car if it wont' lay down right? that can KILL your spl

 
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