What will be the result of this box?

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Fastr
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I am builing a box for 1 12" Type R for the rear well of my camaro.

When the speaker is installed the box will actually be 1.4 cubic feet.

That is slightly larger than the recommended 1 cubic feet, how is this going

to affect this sub? Should it still wound ok? I am looking for this sub to play well in the real low ranges below 80hz. I have a 10 sealed for 85-110 hz.

 
i guess he will...i didn't notice that at first. i would only suggest that if your really good with tuning, x-over points and the equipment to do so. if your not, your going to end up with a mess.

i have heard, and seen, people using a bandpass box with a ported box. some good some bad. the good ones are from guys that do nothing but study air movement and x-overs and all that stuff that goes with it. (kinda like those guys that build a amp and x-over system from scratch using tubes, hand crafted metal cases, tons of gauges and dials, and more math than you can handle, but the outcome is usually better than anything you can buy.) you really need to have an exact mach where the box's x-over points are or you get cancelation.

 
In all honesty you could follow the manufactoror's specs and build it exactly 1.0, then put the same amp and sub in ten different cars and it will sound different every time. I would just build it and try it, if it sounds like the lows are farting or dropping out then build it smaller.my two cents:)

 
you should be fine. like the above post if the enclosure is too large. you can ether make it smaller or. add MDF to the inside of the enclosure to take up the extra space. but it is better to try with the larger enclosure first to get the low bass then with the smaller on, because if you go with the 1cuft enclosure it would be tricky to change the enclosure volume. well youll have to build a new enclosure or add stuffing to the box. but you can only go so far with the stuffing.

i bet having that 10" sub in there as well will cover the upper range that most subs cant provide.

its not that complicated to make the 10" and the 12" work together, just play with the crossover points till you get it right and make sure that the sub and the woofer are in phase.

some crossover attunation in dbs will actualy change the phace polarity that the sound comes out from the speaker, even when the speakers are wired in phace. so inverting the polarity of the subs some times increases output at the target octave. some times is not audible, but if it is. changing the crossover attenuation amount or reversing the polarity will make things better. just a heads up!.

laters

 


Kewl, thanks for the info!

Ill just try it and see how it sounds.. adding mdf inside would be easy, good idea. I should have my twelve in next week.. I already owned the 10. THe 10 is a MTX with the alum. cone (7500 series I think). It punches really hard in the higher bass ranges when put into a .75 box, but doesnt have much for the lows. Thats what I want the 12 for, the real lows only. Between my HU crossover points and my amp crossovers I should be able to seperate the 10 and the 12 pretty good. My amp for the 12" has a variable cross over from 40-120 HZ (24db) (Ill upload my planogram I did)

 
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