What upgrades will I need?

[fatboytyler]

I am trying to plan out my purchases and how much money to save up over the next several months. I am getting a 2k RMS Amp soon (Provided mylows still has it) and was wondering what I will need to do to ensure I can run it.

I have a 100A Alt and currently have a Duralast Gold Maximum battery under the hood (935 Amps).

I am doing the Big 3 here soon.

Will I need to upgrade the under the hood battery to a Kinetik/XS AGM battery? I plan on running one in the back for the amp. What sizes would you all recommend?

My next question is how would I wire the 2 batteries up together?

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[argenis69 10+ year member]

1- it will be better.

2- i like the bigger the ah the better.

3-you have to wire them in parallel.

 

[fatboytyler]

If I ere to get something like the Kinetik HC2400 for under the hood, would that be plenty? Or would I still need to run another one? And the battery running in the back should always be the same size or smaller correct?

 

[argenis69 10+ year member]

I believe you need another one in the back. I like the bigger the battery the better.

 

[fatboytyler]

Would running a KHC2000 upfront and a KHC1800 in the back be sufficient?

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

personally if I had $200-300 to spend on a battery, i'd rather put that towards a HO alt that would be closer to 160-200 amps. IMO alt current is like having a supercharger, push the pedal and instant power, battery power is like nitrous it's only there for short periods of time and you'll run out. if you have a true 2k amp you'll be drawing around 180-220 amps at full tilt, your current alt has a max output of 100 amps where are you going to get the additional 80+ amps from? battery power? not having the amperes on tap is going to cause voltage drop and voltage drop can kill an amp quickly. you plan on just playing full tilt for short periods or for a while on drives home? this is just my $0.02.

 

[fatboytyler]

The only issue with getting a HO alt is that I would likely have to go to DC Power (I doubt Singer would have 2000 Tundras) which would be $500 plus. My vehicle has 240k miles on it. I would hate to drop that money into an HO alt and it not last another 10k miles.

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

and if you get a battery than blow your amp due to voltage drop you'll be spending the difference anyways. why not just spend the extra money now and have all your equipment setup properly to handle the current draw?

 

[fatboytyler]

I sent Singer an email. What are some other good ones? I sent Mechman an email a while back and got nothing.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

The alt is the best option always. But. If the battery isn't big enough to hold the power needed then your in the same boat I can check to see if we make an alt for your truck. But it may be in that $500 area. What I do know about doing install on a tundra. Is that with a big agm and the big 3 they can support 2000 rms. for a while. How long really depends on the amp and how you use your system

 

[fatboytyler]

I'd appreciate it. I may have to bite the bullet again and fork out 500 for one. I'm sending you a PM too.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

I sent Singer an email. What are some other good ones? I sent Mechman an email a while back and got nothing.

You don't need to email Mechman what so ever. It's all automated. Just go to the mechman site, pick out your vehicle... and it will tell you what alts will fit.

Looky here, I did it for ya!

http://store.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/alternators/toyota/tundra/00-02/

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

You guys need to stop rating your batteries and amplifiers in terms of watts. Not every amp is made the same and it ends up coming down to current draw. You don't see a reputable company rate alternators in Watts, do you?

Put a MMATS 3000.1 vs a Sundown SAZ-3500D. One's going to run on stock electrical, one's not. I rest my case. Please stop futhering this trend for those of you who do know better.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

You guys need to stop rating your batteries and amplifiers in terms of watts. Not every amp is made the same and it ends up coming down to current draw. You don't see a reputable company rate alternators in Watts, do you?
Put a MMATS 3000.1 vs a Sundown SAZ-3500D. One's going to run on stock electrical, one's not. I rest my case. Please stop futhering this trend for those of you who do know better.

Ehhh, which one wouldn't? lol

My stock electrical couldn't run

 

[fatboytyler]

You guys need to stop rating your batteries and amplifiers in terms of watts. Not every amp is made the same and it ends up coming down to current draw. You don't see a reputable company rate alternators in Watts, do you?
Put a MMATS 3000.1 vs a Sundown SAZ-3500D. One's going to run on stock electrical, one's not. I rest my case. Please stop futhering this trend for those of you who do know better.

But adding a bigger alt will allow me to further it on down the road. Correct?