What Subwoofer is best for me?

[bigmak927]

I was looking into buying a new subwoofer for my car. I have a ks300.2 that produces 700 watts at 4 ohms when bridged, so I'm not sure which sub would be the best in my situation.

Right now I have a CompR Kicker that supposedly runs at 800 RMS, but I was looking into either an RE Audio SEX12V2D2 (700 Watts RMS), or an RE Audio SXX12V2D2 (1200 Watts RMS). I don't know whether to stick with what I have, and if the SXX is high of RMS to efficiently run off of my amp and so on.

Just looking for a brief explanation and suggestion, thanks!

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[kelz214]

if a sub the has a higher RMS than the amp RMS then you will never have a problem, keep in mind that RMS is ballpark number and isn't always what they say it could be higher or lower. I always say play it safe and get a sub that can handle power fine. go with the SXX if you are going to upgrade

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I was looking into buying a new subwoofer for my car. I have a ks300.2 that produces 700 watts at 4 ohms when bridged, so I'm not sure which sub would be the best in my situation.
Right now I have a CompR Kicker that supposedly runs at 800 RMS, but I was looking into either an RE Audio SEX12V2D2 (700 Watts RMS), or an RE Audio SXX12V2D2 (1200 Watts RMS). I don't know whether to stick with what I have, and if the SXX is high of RMS to efficiently run off of my amp and so on.

Just looking for a brief explanation and suggestion, thanks!

What kind of space are you working with and what kind of box do you have them in? Are you going for a lot louder or better lows?

 

[bigmak927]

This is in the trunk of my 2002 Ford Focus (a bit ridiculous, yes I know), and the box is roughly 3 feet wide, 1 foot deep, and 1 foot tall, ported. The salesman at Car Tunes told me that if I got a sub with higher RMS than the output of my amplifier, then it will feed it distorted signals and possibly blow the sub and the amp. It sounded kind of funny to me, but if I would have to go with the lower power RE ***, I could, but I wouldn't know whether to go v1 or v2.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This is in the trunk of my 2002 Ford Focus (a bit ridiculous, yes I know), and the box is roughly 3 feet wide, 1 foot deep, and 1 foot tall, ported. The salesman at Car Tunes told me that if I got a sub with higher RMS than the output of my amplifier, then it will feed it distorted signals and possibly blow the sub and the amp. It sounded kind of funny to me, but if I would have to go with the lower power RE ***, I could, but I wouldn't know whether to go v1 or v2.

he's feeding you bullsh*t to sell you a bigger amp. Instead of typing out the reason why.... i'll link you to this ongoing thread so you can follow. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/611133-myth-fact-under-powering-subwoofer.html

Also depends on how much each sub costs. If they start costing more then 250, there's a sh*t ton of better subs out there for the money.

That being said i'd put that KS300.2 on a wicked set of components and get a dedicated subwoofer MONOBLOCK amp for your future builds.