What sound deadener to improve midbass and SQ?

[Based]

I've read the sticky but it's from like 2006 and I want to get updated opinions. I don't have any rattles in my door but I read that deadening will increase my midrange/midbass impact and improve sound quality. Should I just get Damplifier Pro? Is there a less expensive alternative that still does the job?

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[shauncox26]

damp pro is some heavy duty stuff got 13ft^2 on my trunk lid and it's rock solid.. i just used 50ft^2 of stinger expert roadkill. it's similar just a tad thinner. @mylows10 ; can hook u up on the roadkill.

 

[shauncox26]

fn triple post doh!

 

[shauncox26]

fn triple post doh!

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/easy-way-electronics/582552-sound-deadening-articles-ways-treat-doors-more.html

 

[DARKHART 10+ year member]

When properly applied, any of the many brands should work fine.....

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

It may improve, but won't work miracles.

 

[d33p]

Heard some great reviews of KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise

Their Kolossus Edition is .93 lbs/sq ft

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

Buddy just installed Kno Knoise. Heavy duty stuff.

I run Raamat.

Both good products

 

[NSTALN 10+ year member]

You can order Stinger Roadkill bulk pack 36sq ft for $95 from Walmart online. I just got 3 of them and was applying it in my car all yesterday. I've used 2 boxes so far doing the whole tire-well rear hatch area and roof. I used 2-3 layers everywhere I've applied it. Since the car isn't re-assembled yet I can't say how well it works...but I can say there is a huge difference in the way the treated surfaces sound compared to the untreated surfaces. I've found Roadkill very easy to work with, minimal odor, definitely effective at killing vibration. I very much suggest using a roller to apply.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

The link I posted is for a list of articles I put together about sound damping in the car. You can't use Dynamat or any other mat products to do it all. Better midbass from doors requires several types of products and installation methods. You can read about this in depth at Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown, but even that excellent web site doesn't cover every practical approach.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

I'd bet properly sealing off your doors is gonna do more than anything else, before you do that though put some deadener on the inside of the outer door panel

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

x2 on stinger roadkill its cheap and gets the job done

 

[Cliff459]

As a side note to a dampening/midbass discussion thread, I want to add that the real reason why the midbass improves is that door speakers are usually an "Infinite Baffle" type of enclosure loading for midbass woofers located in this location. Infinite Baffle is sometimes called "Free Air" as well. If there is not nearly perfect isolation between the front and back of the speaker, then the sound wave that comes off the back of the driver leaks into the wave being produced by the front of the driver and this causes cancellations that lead to greatly reduced output and an overall "muddy" kind of sound. Also, if you use acoustic deadener material to reduce vibrations anywhere on vehicle panels, then the result is that less vibrational energy is "stolen" away from the system and this can increase the SPL produced by the system. Increasing the output even 1dB due to this can be noticeable. Most auto door speakers are purpose-designed to have a very large air space behind them vs. the size of the cone. That's why those "acoustic baffle" cups often cause all the low frequencies to disappear from a door speaker when they are used with them! A rule of thumb for good infinite baffle driver will have 4 to 10 times the driver "Vas" of space behind it for optimum performance. Another "rule of thumb" is that a Qts higher than 0.7 indicates a good chance a driver will perform well in Infinite Baffle/Free Air situations. But, all the driver parameters must be considered together, not just Qts. (Sorry, I don't want to get off track here, just giving more info for the "curious" types to do some Google search on their own for this subject...)

I don't want to get into a discussion about the physics of why/what/how some things are done to change speaker enclosure loading, as many of them are highly opinionated by those who write them, and situational as well. For a "TL;DR" summation, suffice it to say that when regarding door speakers, deadening/isolation is good, while restricting the space behind a woofer can be bad depending on it's characteristics. So, be careful how you treat the space BEHIND the cone while making sure that you do a good job of using deadening material on the inner door surface to provide front-to-back isolation.

Hope this helps! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif