what are some good ways to brace a ported box (8 cube) ????

[babaganoush123 10+ year member]

what are some good ways to brace a ported box (8 cube) ????

its for a fi btl 18 its a 8 cube box ported????

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[htownplaya456 10+ year member]

definitely concrete

 

[60ndown 10+ year member]

2x4s or threaded rod.

 

[babaganoush123 10+ year member]

lol dude thats alot of ****in weight im talking about using wood or light weight pipes be specific?????

 

[thegreatestpenn 5,000+ posts]

look at build pics in some of the other threads to get ideas. threaded rods are a good idea because they don't take up much space, but are very strong. don't forget to double-baffle either

 

[15nissen 10+ year member]

lol dude thats alot of ****in weight im talking about using wood or light weight pipes be specific?????

do not use wood. Buy treaded rod if you must. Box dimensions should be taken into consideration as well, a 2x baffle in most cases is just fine.

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

The box itself is going to way a shit load anyway so what is another couple pounds for bracing?

Threaded rod is going to be the best least invasive method.Otherwise you'll have to redo the deminsions to accomendate the wood bracing!!!

 

[audiobahnuser18 5,000+ posts]

you can do threaded rod's or you can do two wooden dowl's. but im not sure if that would hold up well for a BTL 18

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

With the size of the box I wouldn't recomend dowels.Maybe 2x4's....

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

Wood bracing doesn't take up that much space, unless you are doing a lattice-like bracing scheme. Take two full size MDF pieces (the same as the inside dimensions of your box) and punch 4" holes in them spaced 1" apart. Mount the "window" braces on each side of the driver. You will then have strength on all four sides of the box and not just front-to-back.

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

That's a lot of 4" holes.I would just do double baffle and 2x4's or threaded rod and be done.Threaded rod would be easiest.

 

[12VoltInstaller 10+ year member]

if you would like to brace the enclosure with materials you already have laying around...you can take your piece of MDF that fits like a divider would then swiss cheeze it....or cut out cosmetically pleasing and strategically placed holes to minimize the amount of material to decrease the amount of displacement and restricted air flow. Make the holes at least 3" when using a hole saw....or get creative and make shapes like a celic knot has in them....they look cool and as long as you cut them correctly they will have solid structure. If you cannot see the internal brace from any direction...the cosmetics do not matter at that point.

Also, if you would like to try to eliminate standing waves, insert small pieces roughly 2 1/2" wide by 3-4 inches long evenly or not so evenly spaced the length of the long walls of the enclosure...basically cut the 2 1/2" long side to a 45 deg. so they fill the corners of the enclosure but do not elimiate the entire air space. This will allow the sound waves to bouce off the corner instead of accumulating in the corners and causing a dead spot.

Just some food for thought

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

^^^^I think that is what MROGOWSKI was saying.

 

[12VoltInstaller 10+ year member]

the rods will only brace the enclosure right at the point of penetratin though the enclosure....out to a radius around the rod depending on how thick the material is....it does work well...but not entirely as well as a baffle/lattice type bracing panel would

 

[12VoltInstaller 10+ year member]

^^^^I think that is what MROGOWSKI was saying.

ya he posted when I was typing my response...Im at work...I have to help customers too...lol