Warm cones, funky smell.. Need help locating the problem

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I've got 2 (dual 1 ohm) psi platform one 15's running on the CAB 22 at 1 ohm. Source is a pioneer 80prs. All in a 2004 Tahoe. The subs are brand new (not broken in) and the electrical is stock. I've already ordered a xs power d3400 and a mechman 320 amp alt, just waiting on delivery.

The problem is the cones warming up, the left side of the amp warming up (rca/settings side) and the slight funky smell coming from the port. This only happens when I turn it up and really send it.

Checked all the coils and they are exactly 1.0 ohm, made sure wiring was correct (using the diagram on 12volt website), I'm watching the clip light so I don't think its clipping. They are rated 1000 rms each and I doubt the cab is putting out a full 2000 (stock elec and rise) so they shouldn't be overpowered.

Would the subs being new and the stock elec cause this or where else would I look? The cones warming up makes me think clipping or overpowering but neither seem likely given the clip light and the ratings of the amp/subs.

Thanks in advance

EDIT: Gain is at 1/4th, no boost, subsonic 25, lpf 80, HU sub out is at 0, EQ bass is turned down -1

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[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Lol, warm cones funky smell, yep been there. Still hit it tho

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Lol, warm cones funky smell, yep been there. Still hit it tho

Yuuup.

Brand new subs and you are "sending it"? Oh no no. Slow it down. You gotta break them in brother. The smell is because you are overheating the voicecoils. Break them in with medium volume for like 5 to 10 hours of light listening. Like a week, week and a half. The smell should go away after that and you should be able to "send it" again without issues.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

Yuuup.

Brand new subs and you are "sending it"? Oh no no. Slow it down. You gotta break them in brother. The smell is because you are overheating the voicecoils. Break them in with medium volume for like 5 to 10 hours of light listening. Like a week, week and a half. The smell should go away after that and you should be able to "send it" again without issues.

It gets weirder! I checked the ohm load from the speaker wires at the amp and its bouncing all over the place from 0.0 to 4.0. After much trial and error I found out that if both subs are in the box the ohms go crazy but if only one sub is in the box or both are out its stable. Apparently they are fighting each other somehow? I've compared this to a friend who has 4 12s and his reads stable. Could they have built them wrong?

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

Lol, warm cones funky smell, yep been there. Still hit it tho

I noticed how that sounded after I typed it and I laughed. Of course I had to leave it like that.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I checked the ohm load from the speaker wires at the amp (with everything off) and its bouncing all over the place from 0.0 to 4.0.

After much trial and error I found out that if both subs are in the box the ohms go crazy but if only one sub is in the box or both are out its stable. Apparently the magnets are affecting each other? I've compared this to a friend who has 4 12s and his reads stable. Maybe they built them wrong?

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

Any Ideas?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Any Ideas?

I have noticed ohms "jumping" when the sub reacts to sounds in the enviorment. This is the resonant frequency at play. The box is amplifying the enviornental noise making the cones move, hence the erratic readings. Take one sub out, and the box is no longer properly "tuned", so the readings stabilize. Since you have 15s, the larger cone area reacts with more sensitivity. This is more common in SQ subs that have softer suspensions versus SPL subs with stiffer suspensions.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id take it moderate levels for a minimum of 3 weeks to a month on those new expensive subs till the suspension loosens up and the new glue burns down to solidify/harden up. Last thing you want is have the glue on the coils to crystalize and burn the coils. Get your electrical up to meet youe demand before hammering on them also, to keep that voltage up.. I highly doubt your alternator/stock is more than a 130 on that Tahoe. Largest you can place on it that can be bought at a Auto store without special order is a 140 that Ive came across over the years.Even though sometimes that is a special ordered Alt. Get that Big 3 done too.You never stated what your enclosure dimensions were or what you are Tuned too? For a pair of 15s I would assume a minimum of 6.0 cu ft .. ?? It took about 3 weeks to a month for all 4 of my XFLs to free up/ loosen up. Each sub takes its own time to loosen up.When they do.. You will need to Tune again/ I do.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Id take it moderate levels for a minimum of 3 weeks to a month on those new expensive subs till the suspension loosens up and the new glue burns down to solidify/harden up. Last thing you want is have the glue on the coils to crystalize and burn the coils.

This has to be a joke, right?

Any Ideas?

Yes, you're running two 700W subs on a 2000W amp. You will burn them up if you play them at full power for extended periods of time. Also PSi has really gone down the shitter if he can't even keep his website up and is only on faceberg now.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

This has to be a joke, right?

Yes, you're running two 700W subs on a 2000W amp. You will burn them up if you play them at full power for extended periods of time. Also PSi has really gone down the shitter if he can't even keep his website up and is only on faceberg now.

These are upgraded from 750 to 1000rms. So I have two 1000w subs on a 2200w amp. Of course when you take into account efficiency and impedance rise they likely aren't seeing 2000w.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

I have noticed ohms "jumping" when the sub reacts to sounds in the enviorment. This is the resonant frequency at play. The box is amplifying the enviornental noise making the cones move, hence the erratic readings. Take one sub out, and the box is no longer properly "tuned", so the readings stabilize. Since you have 15s, the larger cone area reacts with more sensitivity. This is more common in SQ subs that have softer suspensions versus SPL subs with stiffer suspensions.

I thought about this also so I did a little test. Hooked everything up like normal and set the DMM so I could see it outside the car. That way I could shut everything and prevent wind and noise from messing with it. Low and behold it was far more stable. Only a very slight fluctuation.

 

[Lowkey 10+ year member]

Id take it moderate levels for a minimum of 3 weeks to a month on those new expensive subs till the suspension loosens up and the new glue burns down to solidify/harden up. Last thing you want is have the glue on the coils to crystalize and burn the coils. Get your electrical up to meet youe demand before hammering on them also, to keep that voltage up.. I highly doubt your alternator/stock is more than a 130 on that Tahoe. Largest you can place on it that can be bought at a Auto store without special order is a 140 that Ive came across over the years.Even though sometimes that is a special ordered Alt. Get that Big 3 done too.You never stated what your enclosure dimensions were or what you are Tuned too? For a pair of 15s I would assume a minimum of 6.0 cu ft .. ?? It took about 3 weeks to a month for all 4 of my XFLs to free up/ loosen up. Each sub takes its own time to loosen up.When they do.. You will need to Tune again/ I do.

Its 8 cu ft tuned to 32hz. I already have a mechman 320 amp alt and a xs power d3400 battery on the way so I can get that electrical where it needs to be. I have the wire for the big 3 just waiting on the alt and batt so I can get it all hooked up.