want to make sure I have everything...

[donaldkbart 10+ year member]

my setup is going to be an fi q 12 and an aq1200d. I want to make sure I have all of the wiring necessary to make this happen. I was thinking of getting

Car Audio Wire

for the amp kit, but do not know which fuse to choose also I was told that a distribution block would be good since the amp takes 4gauge, is this necessary?

any input on the wiring for this setup wold be much appreciated

also I have an 09 Honda Civic coupe, would another battery be necessary?

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[Autobox_Pro 10+ year member]

Let me know if this helps.

1st, in my experience with those amps they love their power. so I would recommend running AT LEAST 4awg to the amp. Also, The fuse under the hood should match the draw of the amp. If I remember correctly that amp has three 40amp fuses in it so a 120amp fuse or breaker under the hood would suffice.

2nd. Those subs come either in dual 1ohm VC's or dual 2ohm VC's. Either way RMS at 1000. Depending on how you will run it will depend on the draw of the amp. If you have the dual 1ohm subwoofer, then your only option is running it in a series configuration giving you 2 ohms. If you have the dual 2ohm woofer, running it in parallel will be optimum as it will drop it to 1ohm. This is also assuming you are running one sub.

3rd. Adding a second battery is not always helpful. In this case you would be better off installing a bigger ( amperage) alternator. Again, these amps love to draw power. Think of it like this. If your stock alternator is a 60 amp alternator, your vehicle needs to run and lights and all need to work. Soooo, Subtracting the 20 amps of power that you will need for lights, another 20 for heater controls and other aux options, another 10 amps for the stereo to operate, leaving you only 10 amps of power to operate your amp that needs or will pull up to 120 amps. Not enough. Your lights will dim every time the bass drops and eventually you will smoke your alternator and or battery. Adding additional battery(s) is good for competition use or instances where running the system for lengths of time while the vehicle is off. The vehicles main battery is only there to start the vehicle and help out the alternator with any over draw. Once your vehicle is running the alternator pretty much takes over supplying power to the vehicle, which is why you can start your vehicle and disconnect your battery and as long as it is running, everything will still function, assuming your alternator is good. Adding a bigger alternator is not as much work as it would seem. You can check online and find a decent 200amp for (ballpark) around 150-200 bucks. Which isnt much more than adding a second battery but much more effective.

Again, let me know if this helps and good luck with your system.

 

[350zspl 10+ year member]

i would do 1/0 power from front to back , leaves you room to feed a mid and high amp in the future to only need 1 power wire and you just add a distro at the back if you introduce a 2nd a/b amp

fuse the power wire 18 " or less from front battery with a 200-250 amp fuse

add a 1/0 ground off your negative battery post

add a 1/0 power wire from alt to + battery terminal

ground amp in back with 1/0 as short as possible

if 1200 aq only accepts 4 awg use 2 reducers on power and ground inputs of amp

use 8 awg from amp speaker outputs to sub

use 12 awg to 14 awg for trigger