Since building my false floor (below) my total floor height has been raised about 3.5". In doing so, my sub-box is now hitting the top of the car, not allowing it to go back as far as it once did.
First off let me clear this up nomenclature: The "front" of the trunk=end of the car, brake lights, trunk latch area. The "back" of the trunk=rear seat.
Now, I thought I would fiberglass the entire back wall (rear seat area), and side walls to get a very solid mold and use 1" MDF for the face and ultimately sqeeze as much airspace as I can out of my enclosure. I want to go ported, however and tune very low. If I do this I have three concerns:
1. Getting pressure into the cabin. The trunk would nearly be completely sealed off if I go for a complete rear trunk mold. In this case, I wonder if I would be better off firing toward the cabin (seats still up, though). This would be cool because the sub would not be visible, however, I just don't know about this. Would I HAVE to COMPLETELY seal off everything from the sub box toward the cabin of the trunk to gain optimal output?
3. The top of the trunk. It has ALL sorts of stuff up there (rods, weird stuff). If possible I'd like to get that molded with 'glass/fleece and position it about 1/2" lower for clearance. A sheet of wood won't work since as soon as it hits the sides the trunk makes a weird bowed shape again (like most trunks). I suppose I could use a portion of MDF for the flat portion, and then 'glass the adjoining portion? How hard is it to fiberglass on a vertical surface? I would imagine this would KILL my back.
2. Port Placement. Since I'm trying to conserve as much space as I can, I don't believe I'd have enough room for the port to be positioned in the direction the sub is facing (depth of box). In my current aero-port setup this is not possible since the port is 20" long, 4" diameter. The depth of the box is only 13". So, two things fall here and one is linked to my first question: A) Face the port out the side of the box, but the box is touching both sides of the wall and the port would fire right into the side of the car...I mean, FLUSH. B) Face the port up, but still don't have much room. Will a larger diameter port allow me to go with a shorter length?
I'm looking for suggestions, or even pictures if you had the same issue. I think my depth would be ABOUT 14-15".
*wish I had Bass Box Pro on my computer @ work*
First off let me clear this up nomenclature: The "front" of the trunk=end of the car, brake lights, trunk latch area. The "back" of the trunk=rear seat.
Now, I thought I would fiberglass the entire back wall (rear seat area), and side walls to get a very solid mold and use 1" MDF for the face and ultimately sqeeze as much airspace as I can out of my enclosure. I want to go ported, however and tune very low. If I do this I have three concerns:
1. Getting pressure into the cabin. The trunk would nearly be completely sealed off if I go for a complete rear trunk mold. In this case, I wonder if I would be better off firing toward the cabin (seats still up, though). This would be cool because the sub would not be visible, however, I just don't know about this. Would I HAVE to COMPLETELY seal off everything from the sub box toward the cabin of the trunk to gain optimal output?
3. The top of the trunk. It has ALL sorts of stuff up there (rods, weird stuff). If possible I'd like to get that molded with 'glass/fleece and position it about 1/2" lower for clearance. A sheet of wood won't work since as soon as it hits the sides the trunk makes a weird bowed shape again (like most trunks). I suppose I could use a portion of MDF for the flat portion, and then 'glass the adjoining portion? How hard is it to fiberglass on a vertical surface? I would imagine this would KILL my back.
2. Port Placement. Since I'm trying to conserve as much space as I can, I don't believe I'd have enough room for the port to be positioned in the direction the sub is facing (depth of box). In my current aero-port setup this is not possible since the port is 20" long, 4" diameter. The depth of the box is only 13". So, two things fall here and one is linked to my first question: A) Face the port out the side of the box, but the box is touching both sides of the wall and the port would fire right into the side of the car...I mean, FLUSH. B) Face the port up, but still don't have much room. Will a larger diameter port allow me to go with a shorter length?
I'm looking for suggestions, or even pictures if you had the same issue. I think my depth would be ABOUT 14-15".
*wish I had Bass Box Pro on my computer @ work*
