Want to do my first ever system....need help though!!!!

Ditch the polk, the kicker stuff is good. Make your own box, you'll be MUCH happier and it really doesn't require all the tools you'd think. You can really do one with just a jigsaw, a drill, and some wood glue. It won't be the prettiest, but unless you're wanting it painted (good luck finding a pre-fab painted) it doesn't need to be pretty. At 1000w you won't be knocking anybody out. With a $2,500 budget you can do much better than that stuff. Try this:
-Two Fi Q 12s Dual 1ohm (link) =$520

-Two Kicker 06ZX1000.1 amps (link) = $738

-Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5" Components (link) = $129

-Phoenix Gold RSd 6x9 Coaxials (link) = $78

-Kicker 06ZX100.2 amp for the components (link) = $119

-Can't go wrong with the yellow or red tops for a daily driver, good choice there.

-You can pretty much make your own box for the cost of wood of you have access to the tools I mentioned. Any kind of saw will work, but you need a router or jigsaw to cut the hole for the sub. If you only have a router, you can get lowe's/home depot to cut the boards the sizes you need, just make sure you take the wood thickness into account.

edit: o and all that, if you buy from the places I listed in the links, will total up to $1,584 with the exception of the battery. Add $150 for the battery and you've still got about 200 to work with. Most of that should go towards quality wiring. Check out KnuKonceptz.com for great wiring. If you have a little extra after the wiring, look into some 1/0 wire and do the Big 3. If you have dimming issues, look into a capacitor. (Don't listen to the nay-sayers on capacitors, they have proven themselves 3x over now for me). Why not do your own install? It's not as hard as it looks. Most time consuming part is taking apart/putting together the car.

DO NOT USE A CAPACITOR!!!!!

 
I hate to revive this thread but I was just searching through stuff and found this. And the reason the user above me said this was such a good thread for a beginner in car audio is because it was.

THIS is how it should be.

The MAIN reason it was so good is the OP had actually RESEARCHED a bit and USED the search button apparently.

Phew, sorry for getting that off my chest.

 
Deadening is key to a nice front stage and substage for that matter. Run active and ditch the rears. Sub and amp choice is great. Just find an active capable HU or external crossover and nice mids and tweets. You have a nice budget.

 
This is, BY FAR, the best advice thread to a noob I have ever seen. This is the way it should always be. Seems like great understanding on BOTH sides of the table...

(just an observation)
I wouldn't say so, people are talking about active front stages and thats not something someone new to car audio should be attempting until he has some equipment picked out. Also no one has suggested anything for integrating with his factory headunit.

 
Deadening is key to a nice front stage and substage for that matter. Run active and ditch the rears. Sub and amp choice is great. Just find an active capable HU or external crossover and nice mids and tweets. You have a nice budget.
This thread's really old, I was just making a point though..

 
2,500 dollars straight cash on you can get you.. A lot!!

if you can fit it.. 15" or 18" Btl fully load

300-500

a 2-3000 watt amp gp 3000(just a random pick)

420

batteries.. 2-3 2400's or 1-2 3100

600 or so..

Wiring.. 40 ft 0 gauge for some knu.. just regular not fleks

120

depending on which one you have you may or may not need an alt..

$1640 for a sick sub setup

250 for a nice front stage.. 200 for a decent front stage amp

wiring kit 30

$2120

now then you take it to a shop they will **** you out of your money

300-700 to install depending how gay they are.. they try and ask like 200+ for a box so..

 
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