Very cool project I stumbled across.

Ever heard one?

If you're talking about off-axis response, a wooden phase plug will solve all the issues with that...

planet10, one of the mods over on DIYaudio, has a little side-business of modifying Fostex drivers for better imaging. I've even heard of people carefully slicing the dustcap off and putting a socket wrench head on it, so the magnet attracts it...sort of a kludge, but it works //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
lol. thats pretty funny there jack. slicing the cap of and a socket wrench //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

thats silly //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Let me get you pics...I shit you not.

FE206EM.gif


The Fostex FE206E 8" driver, as modified by Decware.

 
Hilarity sells for $295 a pair //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

While the stock drivers minus the socket head are about half that...

Audiophools. We love 'em. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
ummmm....kludge? wtf?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

 
awwwww.....kinda like this forum....

a kludgesterfalk....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

 
awwww.....

ok...

dammit..i thought kludgesterfalk was a kewl word....

i'm still gonna use it!

so, what's the purpose of the socket?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

 
re: Phase plug mods.

They work, it's audible.

I modded an NSB with a phase plug, run it full range and I did some blind

tests, the phase plug version was chosen all the time. I also did cone

treatment mods and blind tests, works great too. {also did coolant tests /evil }

I used a balsa wood model rocket nose cone that I placed on the drill press

and used the press as a lathe to mill down the thickness to fit the speaker.

Balsa wood is easy to shape with some sand paper while the cone spins.

Then, use minwax wood hardener liquid and soak the wood in it, let dry, repeat.

The cone is now hard and ready for paint.

To attach the plug, it's easy. Drill a hole at the base and countersink the hole.

Insert a metal flat head wood screw flush with the cone base and the magnetic

field holds the cone in place.

 
My NSB diary here;

http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=210115&highlight=cent

Page 6.

The phase plug can be anything you want for the most part.

The diameter has to be small enough to fit, too big it rubs,

too small it looks fugly. The length ? I chose a length that

won't allow the plug to stick out from the speaker when

looking at it sideways. 1.25" ?

 

Materials? Aluminum with black anodize or chrome would

look sharp. Who will make it ? A machine shop? Do you

have a lathe? Also, if you use ferrofluid the metal phase

plug can act like a heatsink to boost power handling, but

realistically you don't need this. The metal just looks cool

and seems more professional. It's too expensive to do

so there is another choice below.

 

Wood? You can turn your own nose cone on a lathe using

some 3/4" dowels.

 

I chose the rocket nose cones because it's just cheaper

because I don't have the budget or equipment to make

it awesome.

 

I used this cone #19091

http://www.apogeerockets.com/nose_cones.asp

 

3 cones for $4 is not a bad price. The problem is.. The OD

is 0.765", it's too fat... It's ok though. If you measure

from the tip of the cone down ~ 1.25", that is the region

that is thinner and all you need to do is trim some of the diameter off. What I did was insert a wood screw on the nose cone base so it will fit into the drill press. As the

drill press spins I use 80 - 150 grit sand paper to sand

down the diameter to around .68", then it fits into the NSB

well. You can use an ordinary drill if you can have someone

help you hold it.

 

It's balsa wood so the sandpaper will eat it fast. Also,

the wood is soft so if you squeeze the cone you can dent

it. To solve this issue I tried some minwax sanding sealer

and let the wood soak in the can for a minute, then removed

it, let it drain off the cone. When it dries do another coat.

2 or 3 coats is good. Then it accepts paint easier and it's

smooth and harder. Looks pretty good.

 

To secure the nose cone in place inside the speaker all

you need a flat head metal wood screw. Insert the wood screw on the base, coutersinking the screw would be better.

The magnet will hold the cone in place because the screw

is metal.. You can insert/rmove the phase plugs at will.

 

The only problem I had was when I was doing the torture

test where I wanted to burn up one of my NSB's driven

by 400w clipping, the ferrofluid mod. The driver got so

hot that the paint melt off the phase plug and the voice

coil fused. If you don't do this then you shouldn't have

any paint issues.

/////

I have 288 NSB's in storage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/awesome.gif.4430a219d9aaaa6cadc75e9290979dfb.gif

Order more and make a Death Array with PT2's using my recipe and you will

own store bought speakers easy, even the expensive ones. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

I guarantee it, mens warehouse.

 
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